longer arm is the body, the other is the tongue.

Framing Rule.—The first line of figures gives the length of common rafters for one foot run.

The second line of figures gives the length of hip or valley rafters for one foot run.

The third line of figures gives the length of first jack rafter and the difference in the length of the others spaced 16 inches on centers.

The fourth line of figures gives the length of first jack rafters and the difference in the length of the others spaced 2 feet on centers.

The fifth line of figures gives the side cut of jack rafters against hip or valley rafters.

The sixth line of figures gives the side cut of hip or valley rafter against ridge board or deck.

The seventh line of figures gives the cuts of sheathing and shingles in valley or hip, for example:

1. If your roof is raised 8 inches to the foot, or, as it is called, third pitch, under 8 on the first line are the figures 14.42. This is the length of common rafters for one foot run. If the building is 16 feet wide half the width of building would be the run of common rafter. In this case it would be 8; multiply 14.42 by 8, you have 115.36 inches, or 9 feet 7⅜ inches.

2. To obtain the bottom and top cuts of common rafter use the figures 12 on body and 8 on tongue; 12 side gives bottom cut, 8 side gives top cut; the same figures give bottom and top cuts for jack.

On the second line under 8 are the figures 18.78; multiply these figures by 8, which is the run of the common rafter. This gives 150.24, or 12 feet 6¼ inches. This is the correct length of hip or valley rafter. To obtain the bottom and top cuts for hip or valley rafters, use the figures 17 on body and 8 on tongue; 17 side gives bottom cut, 8 side gives top cut.

This is all the figuring necessary to be done. The reason for giving the lengths for one foot of common and hip or valley rafters is that it will work in all cases regardless of width of buildings.

3. On the third line under 8 are the figures 19¼ inches. This is the length of first jack rafter, also the difference in the length of the others spaced 16 inches on centers. For example, the first jack being 19¼ inches, the second jack would be 3 feet 2½ inches; make each one 19¼ inches longer than the other.

On the fourth line under 8 are the figures 2 feet 4⅞ inches. This is the length of the first jack rafter, and the difference in the length of the others spaced 2 feet centers.

On the fifth line under 8 are the figures 10 and 12. By placing square on stock to be cut at these figures 10 on body, 12 on tongue, and marking on 12 side this gives side cut of jacks against hip or valley rafter.

On the sixth line under 8 are the figures 9 and 10. By placing square on stock to be cut at these figures, 9 on body and 10 on tongue, and marking on the 10 side, this gives side cut of hip or valley rafter against ridge board or deck.

On the seventh line under 8 are figures 12 and 10. By placing square on stock to be cut at these figures 12 on body, 10 on tongue, and marking on the 10 side this gives the cut of sheathing and shingles in valley or hip.

Remarks.—To obtain the lengths and cuts be careful to use the figures under whatever figure your roof raises to the foot. If your roof raises 12 inches to the foot, or half pitch, look under 12, and so on in all cases. In cutting jack rafters allow for half the thickness of hip or valley rafters as lengths given on square are to center lines.

Note.—The figures on the square, giving side cuts of jacks, will also give the correct miter cuts for moulding in the valley at the junction of two gables, also miter cuts for gable mouldings where it intersects with level mouldings at the end of building.

The figures giving cuts of sheathing in valley or hip also give cuts for mitering level planceer with gable planceer, also the miter cuts where two gable planceers intersect, also the cut for planceer on gable end.

To obtain the bottom and top cuts of hip or valley rafter use the figure 17 on body, and whatever figure your roof raises to the foot on tongue. This will give you the correct cuts in all cases.

To obtain the bottom and top cuts of common rafters and jack rafters use the figure 12 on body, and whatever figure your roof raises to the foot on tongue. This gives correct cuts in all cases. Always remember that the cut comes on the tongue, or last named figure. It is so arranged in all cases.

Octagon, “Eight-square” Scale.—This scale is along the middle of the face of the tongue, and is used for laying off lines to cut an “eight square” or octagon stick of timber from a square.

Suppose the figures A, B, C, D, Fig. 2, is the butt of a square stick of timber 6×6 inches. Through the center draw the lines AB and CD parallel with the sides and at right angles to each other.

With the dividers take us many spaces (6) from the scale as there are inches in the width of the stick, and lay off this space on either side of the point A as Aa and Ab; lay off in the same way the space from the point B as Bd and Be; also Cf and Cg and Db and De. Then draw the lines ab, cd, cf and gh. Cut off the solid angle E, also F, G and H; there is left an octagon, or “eight square” stick. This is nearly exact.

Brace Measure.—This is along the center of the back of the “tongue,” and gives the length of the common brace.

18-13 25.45 in the scale means that if the run is 18 inches on the post and the same on the beam, then the brace will be 25 45-100 inches.

If the run is 21 inches on both beam and post, then the brace will be 29 70-100 inches.

Care of Square.—Never use emery or sand paper on nickel or black finished squares. When through using put on a few drops of oil. Do not put your square away with finger marks on it; nothing rusts it so quickly as perspiration.”

Fig. 2.

It will be seen that these squares adapt themselves to other work as well as to framing, a quality very few of the combination squares possess, and while combination squares have their special uses and should be in the tool chest of every expert workman, the square pure and simple, like this of Nicholls or similar ones, should never be absent from the “kit” of the ordinary workman, for with it, if he thoroughly understands it, he can accomplish all that is possible even with a combination square. If he is not “posted” the workman should procure some one or more of the many devices or helps for getting bevels, angles, lengths and cuts, for rafters, braces, hips and jacks as advertised by Riesmann, Woods, and others.

Fig. 3.

With these aids and a good true and honest steel square the workman can accomplish almost all that can be done with this tool, or all that he will be called upon to execute by aid of the square.

These squares are furnished by the manufacturers either in polished steel, nickel plate or oxidized copper. The latter style is quite popular with some workmen, because of its not getting so hot when exposed to the rays of the sun.