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From the painting by Albrecht Dürer. The Roman Bridge at Salamanca 184 The Bridge, Gateway, and Cathedral of Burgos 196 The Cathedral of Zamora, Eleventh Century 210 The Walls of Zamora 224 A Moorish Gateway (Burgos) 232 The Gateway on Site of Ancient Puerta de Serranos (Valencia) 244 The Puerta di Santa Maria, Burgos 260 The Giralda, Seville 282 The Bridge at Saragossa 304 A Drinking Fountain in Seville 316 Photo Levy et Fils. A View of the Interior of the Cathedral at Burgos 330 Photo Levy et Fils. The Burgos Cathedral 342

 

Old Court Life in Spain

CHAPTER I

Introduction

OW great is Spain! How mighty! From the rugged mountains of the Asturias, their base washed by stormy waves, and the giddy heights of the Pyrenean precipices—an eternal barrier between rival peoples—to the balmy plains of the South, where summer ever reigns! A world within itself, with a world’s variety! Quien dice España dice todo!

And its history is as varied as the land. First, according to the legend, Hercules set his pillars, or “keys”—the ne plus ultra of land and sea—on the rock of Calpe (Gibraltar) in Europe, and on Abyla (Ceuta) in Africa. And, that no one should doubt it, he placed his temple on the water-logged flats, half-sea, half-land, behind Cadiz, long remembered by the Moors as the “district of Idols,” near the city of Gades, where Geryon dwelt, from whom Hercules “lifted” that troop of fat oxen which he was destined so long to drive wearily about the earth. In memory of all which Charles the Fifth, the great Emperor, carried Hercules’ pillars on his shield, with the proud motto, Ne plus ultra, and the city of Cadiz (Gades) still bears them as its arms.

Then, tradition past, came invaders from the earliest times, Celts, Phœnicians, and Greeks, driving the Iberians from their rightful lands. The Carthaginians, too, crossed from Africa along the southern coast, and settled at Cartagena, which still bears their name.

The Romans next appeared, victorious under Pompey and Cæsar, spreading over Spain, but especially powerful at Seville, Cordoba, Toledo, Segovia, and Tarragona, where they have left their mark in mighty monuments.

A race of uncivilised warriors followed from the North, so powerful that