قراءة كتاب Linotype Manual Giving Detailed Instructions of the Proper Adjustment and Care of the Linotype
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Linotype Manual Giving Detailed Instructions of the Proper Adjustment and Care of the Linotype
beginning with No. 1 at the left. Then put on first elevator A (Fig. 6), distributer N (Fig. 5), and belt P (Fig. 5), which should always be crossed so as to run away from the gears.
Now, with machine in position (Fig. 6), put on face plate N (Fig. 7), which is held by the three cap screws 2, 3 and 4 (Fig. 6), and magazine A and flexible front and glass C (Fig. 7) and connect spaceband lever, spaceband transfer carriage, distributer shifter carriages, line delivery carriage, assembling elevator, etc. Reversing these directions will, of course, show how to take the machine apart.
Before putting on driving belt it is advisable to turn machine over by hand, to be sure everything is all right. If all parts are connected properly there should be no binding and machine should turn easily.

Fig. 8.

Fig. 9.
Temperature of the Metal.
It is essential that the temperature of the metal should be kept uniform. If the temperature is too high, porous or spongy slugs will result, also defective faces and a weak surface, which allows the letters to sink in printing.
A temperature that is too low causes the metal to adhere to the mouthpiece and prevents the free flow of the metal to the mold.
We recommend that the metal in front of the well be kept at a temperature anywhere between 536 and 563 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature can be kept uniform by means of the gas governor attached to each machine, and can be supplemented by a gas pressure governor attached to supply pipe. (See Fig. 10.)
The temperature can be ascertained by plunging a thermometer reading up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit into the molten metal in front of the well and readings taken when the mercury remains constant. Heat the thermometer before plunging it into the metal. The bulb should be wholly covered by the molten metal.
When no thermometer is at hand the temperature may be obtained approximately by plunging a piece of paper into the molten metal. If it turns brown the metal is in a proper condition to cast. The temperature is too low if only a slight color is imparted to the paper; too high if a deep brown or black.
No other metal, such as brass, zinc, or stereotype metal should be mixed with linotype metal. It has been found that better results are obtained if the slugs are melted in a proper furnace and cast into ingots or blocks.
The pot will be kept more free from dross by this method than by melting the slugs in the metal pot of the machine.
The Gas Connections and Governor.
For one machine use a ½-inch supply pipe, and increase about ¼-inch for each additional machine, a 2-inch pipe being sufficient for a plant of twelve machines. A ½-inch feed pipe should be run to each machine.
A gas governor is furnished by the Linotype Company, as shown in Fig. 10, which should be attached to the main pipe near the machines. This governor, together with the one on the machine, will keep the gas at a uniform pressure. The governor (Fig. 10) works as follows:
When the gas pressure becomes too heavy it raises the float B, which sets in mercury at point J and A, and closes the valve C, points 1 and 2.
A small bottle of mercury is sent with each governor; also two small lead weights, which go on top of float B. The arrows show how the gas enters and leaves the governor.

Fig. 10.
Purifying the Metal.
The metal may be purified if, when in a molten state, a piece of green wood about 4 inches in diameter and 7 or 8 inches long, attached to an iron rod, is plunged into the molten metal and allowed to remain about 20 minutes, or until the boiling ceases.
The green wood causes the metal to boil violently, and the oxides contained in the interior of the molten metal are affectually reduced.
The metal should then be thoroughly stirred and the scum removed by an iron ladle.
The dross on the surface may be reduced by adding a few ounces of rosin to the molten mass.
Formation of Dross Upon the Surface of Linotype Metal.
Dross is a compound formed by the action of air upon molten metal. The oxygen contained in the atmosphere attacks most metals with which we are acquainted. The formation of this oxide takes place more rapidly and in larger quantities the higher the temperature of the metal.
This oxidation only occurs upon the surface of molten metal where the air has access and not in the center of the molten mass. It is easy to skim this dross from the metal by means of an iron ladle. It can then be reduced to metal during the operation of melting the slugs into blocks already described.
If this is done little loss will result. The principle of its reduction to the metallic state is this:
If such dross is heated in contact with carbonaceous material, such as rosin, the carbon and resulting gases formed in the process take away the oxygen contained in the dross, liberating the metal.
Care of Friction Clutch.
Care should be taken to keep the inside rim of pulley and clutch leather shoes free from oil; if not, the clutch will slip and fail to turn machine over. The clutch and pulleys should be taken off every two weeks and cleaned and oiled; if not, they will become dry on the shaft and cause the mold disk to carry over when the machine stops.
To take off the clutch and pulleys unscrew the nut E (Fig. 13) and loosen screw which holds clutch on the shaft; then clean shaft N (Fig. 11); then put it back and adjust as described in Adjustment of Automatic Stop.
The friction clutch spring S (Fig. 11) is sometimes too weak, and should be strengthened or renewed. To take out this spring, unscrew the cap or end of shaft as shown in Fig. 11.

Fig. 11.
To Adjust New Style Automatic Stop.
First—Adjust the automatic stopping pawl A (Fig. 14) to 15-16 inch from side of cam to back of pawl and adjust automatic safety pawl the same.
Second—Set the automatic stopping lever C (Fig. 14) so as to engage 3-16 inch with automatic stopping pawl A. Then clamp the vertical starting lever shaft K with set screw D (Fig. 12).
Third—By the adjusting nut E (Fig. 13) adjust the driving shaft clutch flange F (Fig. 12) to 29-64 inch from end of driving shaft bearing G (Fig. 12); then tighten check nut.
Fourth—By means of adjusting screw H (Fig. 12) take up the lost motion between the contact points I and J (Fig. 12), leaving 1-32 inch play; then tighten check nut.
To set friction clutch on machines with old-style

