class="x-ebookmaker-pageno" title="[pg viii]"/> Castles and Towres, antient Villes and Downs, How rowling Rivers to y^e Ocean hast, Of Roadside Inns and many a faire Palast, Served up, I ween, with so much gentle Mirthe, Thoulte fairly own thou'st gott thy Money's Worth. If thou art Cheated Mine shall bee the Sinn,— Turn o'er the Page, my Lady, and Begin!

To

CHARLES GODFREY LELAND,

Who is responsible for our First Work Together,

&

Who has been the Great-Heart of many a Pilgrimage taken

in his Company,

We dedicate this Book.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

The Start 11

In the Val d'Arno 14

At Empoli 22

The Road to Fair and Soft Siena 25

At Poggibonsi 34

In the Mountains 36

Fair and Soft Siena 45

An Italian By-Road 61

Monte Oliveto 81

Through the Wilderness to a Garden 94

We are detained in Montepulciano 101

In the Val di Chiana 109

Luca Signorelli's Town 118

To Perugia: by Train and Tricycle 122

At Perugia 128

Across the Tiber to Assisi 134

At Assisi 138

Virgil's Country 142

Terni and its Falls 155

In the Land of Brigands 157

A Middling Inn 164

Across the Campagna 166

The Finish 173

Appendix 175

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Over the Ponte Vecchio 14

In the Sunlight 18

Lastra 20

A Perugino Landscape 24

On the Arno—near Empoli