JOURNAL OF AN OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA:
FROM MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON,
A DISTANCE OF UPWARDS OF 3000 MILES, DURING THE YEARS 1844-1845

by

LUDWIG LEICHHARDT (1813-1848)

"Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann
Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"

GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.

* * * * *

To
WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol;
To
ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY
And to
THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author

PREFACE

In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.

To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.

From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.

LUDWIG LEICHIHARDT.
SYDNEY,
September 29th, 1846.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I

LEAVE THE LAST STATION
FOSSIL REMAINS
DARLING DOWNS
ENTER THE WILDERNESS
WATERLOO PLAINS
THE CONDAMINE
HEAVY RAINS
CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT
MURPHY AND CALEB LOST
KENT'S LAGOON
COAL
MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

CHAPTER II

PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB
MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES
NATIVE TOMB
THE DAWSON
VERVAIN PLAINS
GILBERT'S RANGE
LYND'S RANGE
ROBINSON'S CREEK
MURPHY'S LAKE
MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY
EXPEDITION RANGE
MOUNT NICHOLSON
ALDIS'S PEAK
THE BOYD.

CHAPTER III

RUINED CASTLE CREEK
ZAMIA CREEK
BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED
NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE
CHRISTMAS RANGES
BROWN'S LAGOONS
THUNDER-STORMS
ALBINIA DOWNS
COMET CREEK
NATIVE CAMP.

CHAPTER IV

SWARMS OF COCKATOOS
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED
NATIVE FAMILY
THE MACKENZIE
COAL
NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM
MOUNT STEWART
BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP
FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY
NEUMAN'S CREEK
ROPER'S PEAK
CALVERT'S PEAK
GILBERT'S DOME
GREAT WANT OF WATER.

CHAPTER V

DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE
PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN
ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN
HUGHS'S CREEK
TOMBSTONE CREEK
CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY
THE ISAACS
NATIVE WOMEN
COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE
GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER
CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES
BROWN FOLLOWS HIM
BOTH RETURN PENITENT
VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER
SKULL OF NATIVE
FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI

HEADS OF THE ISAACS
THE SUTTOR
FLINT-ROCK
INDICATIONS OF WATER
DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US
EASTER SUNDAY
ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN
NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN
A BARTER WITH THEM
MOUNT M'CONNEL.

CHAPTER VII

THE BURDEKIN
TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS
THACKER'S RANGE
WILD FIGS
GEOLOGICAL REMARKS
THE CLARKE
THE PERRY.

CHAPTER VIII

BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL
NIGHT WATCH
ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY
MOUNT LANG
STREAMS OF LAVA
A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN
NATIVE TRIBE
MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT
WHITSUNDAY
BIG ANT HILL CREEK
DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS
FRIENDLY NATIVES
SEPARATION CREEK
THE LYND
PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS
NATIVE CAMP
SALT EXHAUSTED.

CHAPTER IX

THE STARRY HEAVENS
SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE
SAWFISH
TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES
THE MITCHELL
MURPHY'S PONY POISONED
GREEN TREE-ANT
NEW BEVERAGE
CROCODILE
AUDACITY OF KITES
NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY
THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM
MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

CHAPTER X

INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA
NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS
THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA
THE STAATEN
A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP
THE VAN DIEMEN
THE GILBERT
SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS
CARON RIVER
FRIENDLY NATIVES
THE YAPPAR
MR. CALVERT RECOVERED
MODE OF ENCAMPMENT
SWARMS OF FLIES
ABUNDANCE OF SALT
NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

CHAPTER XI

SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES
NATIVE CARVING
AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED
THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER
NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU
BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO