In some cases, soaking in a cold concentrated solution of the mordant is sufficient. The dyeing of some colours is also at a low temperature.

Of the preparation of raw silk. For every pound of raw silk, take ¼ lb. of soap; first put the silk into a bag, or so make it up that tangling may be prevented, then let it boil together for 2 hours, after which it must be very well cleansed, and so it is ready to dye all sorts of colours, being first allomed.[1]

How the boiled silk must be allomed. In proportion to every pound of silk, take ¼ lb. of Allom, melt in a little kettle or skillet, and when melted, throw it in to a tub of water, into which put the silk to steep, where let it lie a whole night.[1]

To soften silk after dyeing. Into a large vessel nearly full of water, a solution of soap is poured, in the proportion of from 4 to 5 lbs. of soap for every 110 lbs. of silk. The solution of soap is strained through a cloth into the water and well mixed. The silk is then introduced & left for about quarter of an hour after which it is wrung out and dried.

ON COTTON.—Cotton is the down surrounding the seeds in pods of certain shrubs and trees growing in tropical and semi-tropical countries. It was first introduced into Europe by the Saracens and was manufactured into cloth in Spain in the early 13th century. Cotton cloth was made in England in the early 17th century. The colour of cotton varies from deep yellow to white. The fibre differs in length, the long stapled being the most valued. Cotton is difficult to dye and requires a special preparation. It is first boiled with water till thoroughly softened and wetted. Then alumed in the proportion of 1 of alum to 4 of the cotton (see page 28). It is then galled. The galling is done with different proportions of gall-nuts and other astringents (such as tannic acid, myrobalams, sumach, catechu) according to the quality of the astringents and the effect wished to be obtained. If gall-nuts are used they are bruised, then boiled for about two hours in a quantity of water. The bath is then allowed to cool till the hand can bear it. The cotton is worked well in this solution and then left for 24 hours. After which it is wrung out and dried.

Cotton is sometimes boiled in sour water in order to cleanse it: sometimes an alkaline ley is used: the cotton must be boiled in it for 2 hours, then wrung out and rinsed in clean water and dried. Cotton dyeing has been carried on for centuries in the East. In India "before a cloth is ready to be dyed with a fast colour, it has generally to undergo a preliminary process of preparation more or less elaborate, the different stages of which may be recited as washing, bleaching, dunging, galling, aluming, or mordanting, and again washing." (A Monograph on dyes and dyeing in the Bombay Presidency, by C. G. H. Fawcett, 1896.) It is washed first of all to remove all impurities, whether those naturally belonging to the fibre or those purposely introduced during the processes of spinning and weaving. The bleaching removes grease, etc. This is done in India by the sun, air and moisture. The dunging process consists of passing the cotton through a hot solution of cow dung, which renders the dye fast. This is sometimes replaced by substitutes, such as the phosphates of soda and lime, silicates of soda, etc. The next operation of galling is an important step in the Indian process of dyeing. It is applied to cotton, linen and silk. Vegetable infusions containing tannin are applied to the cloth. Those mostly used are myrobalams, pomegranate rind, tamarisk galls, and pistachio galls. The cloth is then alumed, washed, and is then ready to be dyed.

Bancroft says:—"The fibres of linen or cotton when spun or woven are prepared for the dyer by being first boiled in water with a suitable proportion of potash (which for linen should be made caustic, in order that it may act more strongly upon the oily and resinous matters abounding in flax) and afterwards bleached by exposure upon the grass to sun and air. But as this operation commonly leaves a portion of earthy matter in the linen or cotton, it ought to be soaked or steeped in water soured by sulphuric acid, to dissolve and remove this earthy matter, taking care afterwards to wash or rinse off the acid."

A few of the natural dye stuffs are capable of dyeing cotton direct, without a mordant, such as Turmeric, Barberry bark, safflower, annatto. For other dyes cotton has a special attraction, such as catechu, fustic, logwood.

ON LINEN.—Linen is flax, derived from the decomposed stalks of a plant of the genus of Linum. It grows chiefly in Russia, Belgium, France, Holland, and Ireland. The plants after being gathered are subjected to a process called "retting", which separates the fibre from the decaying part of the plant. In Ireland and Russia this is usually done in stagnant water, producing a dark coloured flax. In Belgium, Holland and France, retting is carried out in running water, and the resulting flax is a lighter colour. Linen is more difficult to dye than cotton, probably on account of the hard nature of the fibre. The same processes are used for dyeing linen as for cotton.

"Linen thread is dyed in the same manner as cotton, only, that previous to its being purged like cotton thread, it is usual to boil it in water, adding for every pound of thread a quarter pound of chopped sorrel. Oil of vitriol is, however, more convenient and better than sorrel."—D'Apligny.

To Bleach Linen.—(For 13 to 15 yards linen) Boil ½ lb. soap and ½ lb. soda in a gallon of water. Put it in a copper and fill up with water, leaving room for the linen to be put in. Put in the linen and bring to the boil. Boil for 2 hours, keeping it under the water and covered. Stir occasionally. Then spread out on the grass for 3 days, watering it when it gets dry. Repeat this boiling and grassing for 3 weeks. Your linen is then pure white.

To bleach linen a cream colour.—Boil ½ lb. soap and ½ lb. soda in a gallon of water. Fill copper up with water and put in linen. Boil for 2 hours. Repeat this once a day for 4 days. The linen should not be wrung out but kept in the water till ready to be put into the fresh bath.

ON WATER.—A constant supply of clean soft water is a necessity for the dyer. Rain water should be collected as much as possible, as this is the best water to use. The dye house should be by a river or stream, so that the dyer can wash with a continuous supply. Spring and well water is as a rule hard, and should be avoided. In washing, as well as in dyeing, hard water is altogether injurious for wool. It ruins the brilliancy of colour, and prevents the dyeing of some colours. Temporary hardness can be overcome by boiling the water (20 to 30 minutes) before using. An old method of purifying water, which is still used by some silk and wool scourers, is to boil the water with a little soap, skimming off the surface as it boils. In many cases it is sufficient to add a little acetic acid to the water.

Berthollet says,—"Whenever, therefore, a water is limpid, when its flow is constant, when it has no sensible taste, and dissolves soap well, it may be regarded as very proper for dyeing." He also goes on to say that for correcting water that is bad, sour water is principally used, that is, water in which bran has been