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ACROSS UNKNOWN
SOUTH AMERICA
BY
A. HENRY SAVAGE-LANDOR
WITH 2 MAPS, 8 COLOURED PLATES, AND 260 ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
IN TWO VOLUMES
HODDER AND STOUGHTON
LONDON NEW YORK TORONTO
The Author.
Printed in 1913
Copyright in the United States of America
by A. Henry Savage-Landor
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED
to
THE PEOPLE
of the
GREAT BRAZILIAN REPUBLIC
CONTENTS
VOL. I
Chapter Paragraph Description Pp. PREFACE v-xiii CONTENTS xv-xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xix-xxiv I The Heart of Brazil—Brazil, its Size and its Immense Wealth—Rio de Janeiro—Brazilian Men of Genius—São Paulo—The Bandeirantes—The Paulista Railway 1-25 II Coffee—The Dumont Railway 26-37 III On the Mogyana Railway 38-51 IV The Terminus of the Railway—An Unpleasant Incident—The Purchase of Animals—On the March with the Caravan 52-68 V Travelling across Country—A Musical Genius—Valuable Woods—Thermal Springs 69-85 VI Inquisitiveness—Snakes—A Wonderful Cure—Butterflies—A Striking Scene 86-101 VII In the City of Goyaz 102-117 VIII Fourteen Long and Weary Days—Disappointment—Criminals as Followers 118-131 IX The Departure—Devoured by Insects 132-148 X Fishing—Termites—The Great Araguaya River 149-159 XI The Tucano—Fish of the Araguaya River—A Bad Shot—A Strange Sight 160-178 XII Geological Speculation—Beautiful Pasture-land 179-195 XIII The River Barreiros—A Country of Tablelands 196-206 XIV The Bororo Indians 207-223 XV Bororo Superstitions—The Bororo Language—Bororo Music 224-241
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class="pgexternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">XVI Bororo Legends—The Religion of the Bororos—Funeral Rites 242-263 XVII The River Das Garças—Majestic Scenery 264-279 XVIII The Salesian Fathers—A Volcanic Zone 280-291 XIX The Paredão Grande—A Cañon—A Weird Phenomenon—Troublesome Insects 292-310 XX Wild Animals—An Immense Chasm—Interesting Cloud Effects 311-327 XXI A Beautiful Lagoon—Strange Lunar Display—Waves of Lava—Curious Grottoes—Rock Carvings—A Beautiful Waterfall 328-343 XXII In Search of the Highest Point of the Brazilian Plateau—Mutiny—Great Domes—Travelling by Compass—A Gigantic Fissure in the Earth's Crust 344-358 XXIII The Jangada River—Demented Descendants of Slaves—Appalling Degeneration—Giant Monoliths—The River Roncador—Gigantic Natural Gateways—The Discovery of Fossils 359-376 XXIV A Swampy Valley—Impressive Scenery—"Church Rock"—Escaping before a Forest Fire—The Rio Manso—Difficulties of marching across Virgin Country—Beautiful Rapids 377-398 XXV The Blue Mountains—The Cuyabá River—Inaccurate Maps—A Rebellion in Camp—Infamy of Author's Followers—The Lagõa dos Veados and the Seven Lakes—Falling Back on Diamantino—Another Mutiny—Slavery—Descending from the Tableland 399-432
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
VOL. I
Page The Author Photogravure Frontispiece Rio de Janeiro, showing the beautiful Avenida Central 4 Rio de Janeiro as it was in 1903 8 Dr. Pedro de Toledo, Minister of Agriculture, Brazil 12 Senador Alcindo Guanabara, a great Literary Genius and Patriot of Brazil 16 The Municipal Theatre, Rio de Janeiro 20 Baron de Rio Branco 24 Dr. Passos 28 A Beautiful Waterfall at Theresopolis 32 Antonio Prado's Coffee Estate 32 The Station and Shed of the Goyaz Railway, Araguary. Mr. Luiz Schnoor and his two Engineers 48 Typical Trees of the Brazilian Forest, Goyaz. The Stem devoid of Branches and Foliage up to a great Height 48 Author departing from Morro da Meza, showing style of Costume worn during the Expedition 56 Alcides and Filippe the Negro 56 Goyaz Railway in Construction: the Cut leading to the Paranahyba River 64 Author's Caravan crossing a Stream 64 Characteristic Types of Brazilians of the Interior. (Notice the Degenerate Faces and Development of Goitre) 68 A Typical Village of the Province of Goyaz
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tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">68 Picturesque Ox-carts of Goyaz 76 A Home in Central Brazil 80 A Clever Automatic Pounding Machine 80 Brazilian Pack-saddles 88 A Typical Village. (The Higher Building is the Church) 88 Author's Caravan about to cross the River Corumba 96 Burity Palms 96 The President of Goyaz and his Family. (Giant Cactus in the background) 100 The Main Square of Goyaz City, showing Prison and Public Library 108 Some of the Baggage and Scientific Instruments used by Author on his Expedition 108 Author's Six Followers 112 View of Goyaz City from Sta. Barbara 120 Author's Men packing Animals 120 Some of Author's Pack Animals 128 Author's Caravan across the Immense Prairies of Matto Grosso 144 The Araguaya River (looking North) 152 The Araguaya (looking South) 152 Caraja Indian of the Upper Araguaya River 160 Typical Flat-topped Plateau of Central Brazil 168 One Night's Fishing on the Araguaya 168 The Paredãozinho 176 Typical Scenery of Matto Grosso 176 Volcanic Scenery of Matto Grosso (Chapada in foreground) 184 Peculiar Formation of Central Plateau 184 Curious Domes of Lava with Upper Stratum of Earth, Sand and Ashes 192 Great Undulating Campos of Matto Grosso 192 Typical Brazilian Plateau, showing Work of Erosion 200 On the Plateau of Matto Grosso (Alcides in foreground) 200 A Fine Bororo Type on a Visit To Author's Camp 208 Bororo Men, showing Lip Ornament 216 Bororo Men 216 Bororo Indians 224 Bororo Men (the Aprons are not actually worn) 228 Bororo Warriors 232 Bororo Warriors 232 The Horrors of Photography: Bororo Children 236 Bororo Chief rattling Gourds filled with Pebbles, in order to call Members of his Tribe (Coloured Plate) 238 Bororo Child showing strong Malay Characteristics 240 Bororo Girls 244 Bororo Girls (side view) 244 Bororo Women, showing Method of carrying Children 248 Bororos showing Formation of Hands 248 Bororo Women
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tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">252 Bororo Women 252 Bororos Thrashing Indian Corn 256 A Bororo Blind Woman 256 Bororo Children 260 Bororo Women 260 Isolated Conical Hills with Tower-like Rocky Formations on Summit 268 The Endless Campos of Matto Grosso 268 Geometrical Pattern on the Surface of a Flow of Lava (caused by Sudden Contraction in Cooling) 272 The Observatory at the Salesian Colony. (Padre Colbacchini in the Foreground) 280 Bororo Women and Children 280 Strange Formation of Volcanic Rock 288 Volcanic Cavities (Matto Grosso) 288 A Vertical Mass of Solid Rock of a Brilliant Red Colour 292 The Paredão Grande (Matto Grosso) (Coloured Plate) 294 The Paredão Grande, showing Vertical Rocks with Great Arches 300 Mushroom-shaped Rocks of Volcanic Formation 308 A Great Earthquake Fissure in the Terrestrial Crust (Matto Grosso) 308 Strange Geometrical Pattern of Lava over Giant Volcanic Dome 316 Author's Troop of Animals wading across a Shallow Stream 324 Central Cluster of Trees and Palms in a Cuvette (Matto Grosso) 332 A Giant Wave of Lava 332 Strange Rock-Carvings of Matto Grosso 336 Weird Lunar Effect witnessed by Author (Coloured Plate) 340 A Giant Quadrangular Block of Rock 344 Rock-Carvings in Matto Grosso 344 A Picturesque Waterfall on the S. Lourenço River 352 A Cañon of Matto Grosso 356 How Author's Animals rolled down Trailless Ravines 360 Hideous Types characteristic of Central Brazil. Two Women (Left) and Two Men (Right) 364 Author's Caravan marching across Trailless Country 368 The Roncador River 368 Fossil Skull of a Giant Animal discovered by Author (Side View) 376 Fossil Skull of Giant Animal (seen from Underneath) 376 A Grand Rock ("Church Rock") 384 Church Rock (Side View) 384 Quadrangular Rocky Mountain connected by Natural Wall of Rock with the Vertical-sided Range in Background 388 Quadrangular Rocky Mountain showing Rocky Wall connecting it with the Neighbouring Range 392 Author's Caravan in the Heart of Matto Grosso 392 A Giant Dome of Lava 396 Campos and Chapada of Matto Grosso 396 Marvellous Scenery of the Central Brazilian Plateau. "Church Rock" standing in the Centre (Coloured Plate)
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tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">400 A Street of Diamantino 404 The Dogs of the Expedition 404 Matto-Grosso Girl, a Mixture of Portuguese, Indian and Negro Blood 412 Brazilian Child, a Mixture of Portuguese and Negro 412 Map showing Author's Route 432 Map showing the Arinos and Arinos-Juruena Rivers 432
The Mouth of the Putamayo River.
CONTENTS
VOL. II
Chapter Paragraph Description Pp. CONTENTS iii-viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ix-xvi I The River Arinos—A Rickety Canoe—Mapping the River—The Siphonia Elastica—Rubber and its Collection—An Enormously Rich Country—A German in Slavery 1-15 II Hoisting the British Flag—An Escaped Slave—A Dilemma—Benedicto—The Lutra Brasiliensis—The Seringueiros—A Marvellous River—Rapids 16-32 III Dangerous Navigation—Eddies—Whirlpools—An Extraordinary Creature—The Man X—Pedro de Toledo Island—An Interesting Rodent 33-50 IV Oleo Pardo Trees—Beautiful Palms—The River Bottom—Swarms of Butterflies—Millions of Bees—A Continuous Torture 51-61 V Great Islands—The Trinchão Fish—A Fisherman's Paradise—Alastor Island—Plentiful Rubber—The Civilized Man's Idea of the Tropical Forest—The War-Cries of the Indians—Swarms of Bees and Butterflies 62-75 VI The Tapirus Americanus—Striking Scenery—The Mate Tree—Photography in Camp—Brazilian Way of Reasoning—A New Christopher Columbus—The Selection of our Camps—Beautiful Fruit—A Large Tributary 76-91 VII Ideal Islands—Immense Figueira Trees—The "Spider Monkey"—Great Variety of Fish in the Arinos—The Rocky Gateway into Diabolical Waters—Shooting Dangerous Rapids—Cutting a Way through the Forest—A Nasty Rapid—Plentiful Fish 92-111 VIII Magnificent Basins—Innumerable Rapids—Narrow Escapes—The Destructive Sauba Ants—Disobedient Followers—A Range of Mountains—Inquisitive Monkeys—Luck in Fishing—Rocky Barriers—Venus 112-128 IX Dogs—Macaws—Crocodiles—A Serious Accident: Men flung into a Whirlpool—The Loss of Provisions and Valuable Baggage—More Dangerous Rapids—Wonderful Scenery—Dangerous Work—On the Edge of a Waterfall—A Risky Experience—Bravery of Author's Brazilian Followers—A High Wind from the North-East—A Big Lake 129-150 X The Point of Junction of the Arinos and Juruena Rivers—Elfrida Landor Island—Terrible Days of Navigation—Immense Islands—An Old Indian Camp—A Fight between a Dog and an Ariranha—George Rex Island—A Huge Sucuriú Snake 151-164 XI A Family of Ariranhas—Attacked by them—Three Nasty Rapids—Beautiful Sand Beaches—Exciting Experiences—Going down a Thundering Cataract—Alcides' Narrow Escape—A Night's Work in the Midst of a Foaming Rapid in order
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to rescue the half-submerged Canoe—Filippe's Courage—Visited by a Snake 20 ft. long 165-181 XII A Tiny Globular Cloudlet warning us—Tossed in a Merciless Manner—Saved by Providence—Vicious Waters—A Diabolical Spot—A Highly Dangerous Crossing—A Terrible Channel—More Bad Rapids—On the Verge of a Fatal Drop down a Waterfall—Saved in Time—A Magnificent Sight—The August Falls—A Mutiny—The Canoe, weighing 2,000 lb., taken across the Forest over a Hill-range 182-206 XIII A Double Whirlpool—Incessant Rapids of Great Magnitude—A Dangerous Channel—Nothing to Eat—Another Disaster 207-219 XIV In the Hands of Providence—A Mutiny—Another Mutiny—Foodless—Hard and Dangerous Work—A Near Approach to Hades—Making an Artificial Channel among Thousands of Boulders—An Awe-inspiring Scene—The Fall of S. Simão—A Revolt 220-234 XV Mutiny and Threats—Wasted Efforts—Awful Waters—The Canoe escapes in a Violent Rapid—Another Mutiny—The Canoe recovered—An Appalling Vortex—The Fall of S. Simão—Cutting an Artificial Channel in the Rocks 235-248 XVI At Death's Door—Mundurucu Indians—All Author's Followers poisoned by Wild Fruit—Anxious Moments—Seringueiros—A Dying Jewish Trader—The Mori Brothers—A New Hat—Where the Tres Barras meets the Arinos-Juruena—The Canoe abandoned 249-265 XVII A Fiscal Agency—Former Atrocities—The Apiacar Indians—Plentiful Rubber—Unexploited Regions—Precious Fossils thrown away by Author's Followers—A Terrific Storm—Author's Canoe dashed to pieces—The Mount St. Benedicto 266-277 XVIII Starting across the Virgin Forest—Cutting the Way incessantly—A Rugged, Rocky Plateau—Author's Men throw away the Supplies of Food—Attacked by Fever—Marching by Compass—Poisoned—Author's Men break down—Author proceeds across Forest endeavouring to reach the Madeira River—A Dramatic Scene 278-298 XIX Benedicto and Filippe show Courage—Confronted with a Mountainous Country—Steep Ravines—No Food—Painful Marches—Starving—Ammunition rendered useless by Moisture—The "Pros" and "Cons" of Smoking—A Faint Hope—A Forged Tin which should have contained Anchovies—Curious Effects of Starvation upon the Brain—Where Money is of no avail—Why there was Nothing to eat in the Forest—The Sauba Ants—Sniffed by a Jaguar—Filippe tries to commit Suicide 299-320 XX Benedicto and the Honey—Constantly collapsing from Exhaustion—A Strange Accident—Finding a River—People's Mistaken Ideas—Sixteen Days of Starvation—An Abandoned Hut—Repairing a Broken-down Canoe—Canoe founders—A Raft constructed of Glass 321-338 XXI The Launching of the Glass Raft—Accidents—The Raft sinking—Saved—Our First Solid Meal—Its Consequences—The Canuma and Secundury Rivers—Marching back across the Forest to the Relief of the Men left behind—A Strange Mishap—A Curious Case of Telepathy 339-364 XXII Baggage Saved—The Journey down the Tapajoz River—Colonel Brazil—Wrecked—From Itaituba to the Amazon—Benedicto and the Man X are discharged 365-385 XXIII Santarem to Belem (Pará)—The Amazon—From Belem to Manaos—The Madeira-Mamore Railway 386-404 XXIV Attacked by Beri-beri—A Journey up the Madeira River to the Relief of Filippe the Negro and Recovery of Valuable Baggage left with him—Filippe paid off—A Journey up the River Solimões—Iquitos 405-418 XXV From Iquitos to the Foot of the Andes up the Rivers Ucayalli, Pachitea and Pichis—The Cashibos or "Vampire Indians" 419-438 XXVI Across the Andes—The End of the
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Trans-continental Journey 439-457 XXVII The Peruvian Corporation Railway—The Land of the Incas—Lake Titicaca—Bolivia—Chile—The Argentine—A Last Narrow Escape—Back in England 458-476 APPENDIX Some of the Principal Plants of Brazil—Mammals—Birds—Fish—Reptiles—Vocabularies 477-496 INDEX 497-504