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In the Andamans and Nicobars: The Narrative of a Cruise in the Schooner "Terrapin"
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In the Andamans and Nicobars: The Narrative of a Cruise in the Schooner "Terrapin"

by Kloss C Boden (Cecil Boden)

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IN THE ANDAMANS
AND NICOBARS

THE NARRATIVE OF A CRUISE IN THE SCHOONER
"TERRAPIN," WITH NOTICES OF THE ISLANDS,
THEIR FAUNA, ETHNOLOGY, Etc.

By C. BODEN KLOSS

"Where, beneath another sky, Parrot islands anchored lie."
WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street, W.
1903

THE "TERRAPIN" IN KWANG-TUNG STRAIT.

TO

WILLIAM LOUIS ABBOTT

IN FELLOWSHIP WITH WHOM I SPENT MANY ENJOYABLE
MONTHS ON THIS AND FORMER CRUISES

PREFACE

The following pages are the result of an attempt to record a cruise, in a schooner, to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bengal Sea, the main purpose of which was to obtain good representative collections (now in the National Museum, Washington, U.S.A.) of natural history and ethnological objects from the places visited. Special attention was given to the trapping of small mammals, which, comprising the least known section of the island fauna, were the most interesting subject for investigation. Sixteen new varieties were obtained in the Andamans and Nicobars together, thus raising the known mammalian fauna of those islands from twenty-four to forty individuals, while the collections also included ten hitherto undescribed species of birds. All the collecting and preparation was done by my companion, whose guest I was, and myself, for we were accompanied by no native assistants or hunters. Broadly speaking, one half of the day passed in obtaining specimens, the other in preserving them; and such observations as I have been able to chronicle were, for the greater part, made during the periods of actual collecting and the consequent going to and fro.

In order to give a certain completeness to the account, I have included a more or less general description of the two Archipelagoes, their inhabitants, etc.; the chapters of this nature are partly compiled from the writings of those who had had previous experience of the islands, and for the most part the references have been given.

I cannot but regard the illustrations, which are a selection from my series of photographs, as the most valuable part of this work, but I hope that my written record, in spite of its imperfections, may stimulate some more competent observer and chronicler than myself to visit the latter islands—for the Andamans have already been described[1] in an admirable monograph by one who dwelt there for many years—before it is too late. Ethnically, much remains to be done, and every day that goes by produces some deterioration of native life and custom. To this end I have added many details about supplies, anchorages, etc., that might otherwise seem superfluous.

Of those who entertained and assisted us during the voyage, thanks are specially due to Mr P. Vaux of Port Blair, for his hospitality to us during our stay in that place;[2] and I am greatly indebted to Messrs O. T. Mason, G. S. Miller, and Dr C. W. Richmond, respectively, for the photographs of the Nicobarese pottery and skirt, for permission to include here much information from the report on the Andaman and Nicobar mammals, and for a list of the new species of birds obtained, which, however, up to the present, have not received specific designations. I have also to gratefully acknowledge the help rendered me by Mr E. H. Man, C.I.E., who, besides volunteering to read through the proof sheets, has given me much information, and corrected a number of inaccuracies. To my sister, for her superintendence of the book since my departure from England, and to my publishers for their kindness and assistance in many ways, I must not omit to offer my thanks.

October, 1902.

CONTENTS

PART I

INTRODUCTION   PAGE The Terrapin—Crew—Itinerary of the Cruise—Daily Routine—Provisions and Supplies—Collecting Apparatus—Guns—Shooting—Path-making—Clothing—Head-dress—A Scene in the Tropics—Native Indolence—Attractive Memories 1   CHAPTER I Barren Island and the Archipelago 9 Shipboard Monotony—Edible Sharks—Calm Nights—Squalls—Barren Island—Appearance—Anchorage—Landing-place—Hot Spring—Goats—The Eruptive Cone—Lava—Paths—Interior of the Crater—Volcanic Activity—Fauna—Fish—The Archipelago—Kwang-tung Strait—Path-making—The Jungle—Birds—Coral Reefs—Parrots—Two New Rats—Inhabitants.     CHAPTER II Port Blair 19 We enter the Harbour—Surveillance—Ross Island Pastimes—Visit the Chief Commissioner—The Harbour—Cellular Jail—Lime-kilns—Phœnix Bay—Hopetown—Murder of Lord Mayo—Chatham Island—Haddo and the Andamanese—Tea Gardens—Viper Island and Jail—The Convicts—Occupations—Punishments—Troops—Departure.     CHAPTER III Macpherson Strait—South Andaman and Rutland Island 28 Gunboat Tours—South Andaman—Rutland Island—Navigation—Landing-place—Native Camp—Natives—Jungle—Birds—Appearance of the Natives—Our Guests—Native Women: Decorations and Absurd Appearance—Trials of Photography—The Village—Food—Bows, Arrows, and Utensils—Barter—Coiffure—Fauna—Water—New Species.
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class="x-ebookmaker-pageno" title="[Pg x]" id="pgepubid00009"/>   CHAPTER IV The Cinques and Little Andaman 36 Position of the Cinques—Anchorage—Clear Water—The Forest—Beach Formation—Native Hut—Little Andaman—Bumila Creek—Natives—Flies—Personal Decoration—Dress and Modesty—Coats of Mud—Coiffure—Absence of Scarification—Elephantiasis—A Visit to the Village—Peculiar Huts—Canoe—Bows and Arrows—The Return Journey—A slight contretemps—Andamanese Pig—We leave the Andamans.     CHAPTER V Kar Nicobar 44 To the Nicobars—A Tide-race—A Change of Scene—Sáwi Bay—Geological Formation—V. Solomon—Mūs Village—Living-houses—Kitchens—Fruit-trees—The Natives—Headman Offandi—"Town-Halls"—Death-house—Maternity Houses—Hospitals—Floods—"Babies' Houses"—Birds—Oil Press—Canoes—Offandi—"Friend of England"—"Frank Thomson"—"Little John"—Thirst for Information—Natives' Nick-names—Mission School Boys' Work—A Truant—The Advantage of Canoes—A Spill—Our Method of Landing—Collecting Native Birds—A New Bat—Coconuts—V. Solomon—The Nicobarese and Christianity—Water—Area of Kar Nicobar—Geology—Flora—Supplies.     CHAPTER VI Tilanchong 66 Batti Malv—Tilanchong—Novara Bay—Terrapin Bay—Form and Area of Tilanchong—Birds—Megapodes—A Swamp—Crocodile—Megapode Mound—Wreck and Death of Captain Owen, 1708—Leave Tilanchong—Foul Ground—Kamorta.     CHAPTER VII Trinkat 73 Beresford Channel—A Deserted Village—Jheel—Bird Life—Wild Cattle—Scenery—Photographs—Port Registers—Tanamara—Population—Customs—The Shom Peṅ—The Sequel to a Death—Interior of the Houses.     CHAPTER VIII Nankauri 78 The Harbour Shores—A Village—Kanaia—Canoe—Feeding the Animals—Collecting-ground—Mangrove Creeks—Preparations for a Festival—Burial Customs—Malacca Village—Houses—Visit Tanamara—Furniture—Talismans and "Scare-devils"—Beliefs—Festivities—A Dance—An Educated Native—Tanamara and his Relations—Cigarettes—Refreshments—The Collections—Geology—Flora—Population—Piracy.   CHAPTER IX Kamorta 95 The Old Settlement—The Cemetery—F.H. de Röepstorff—Mortality—Birds—The Harbour—Appearance of Kamorta—Dring Harbour—Olta-möit—Buffalo—Spirit Traffic—Cookery—Ceremonial Dress—A Visit from Tanamara—Geology—Flora—Topography—Population—Hamilton's Description.     CHAPTER X Kachal and Other Islands 103 Heavy Surf—Teressa—Bompoka—A Native Legend—Hamilton—Chaura—Wizardry—Pottery—Kachal typical of the Tropics—Nicobarese Dress—West Bay—Lagoon—Mangroves—Whimbrel—Formation of Kachal—Birds—Visitors to the Schooner—Fever—Chinese Junks—Thatch—Relics—The Reef—Megapodes—Monkeys—Full-dressed Natives—Medicine—A Death Ceremony—Talismans—Fish and Fishing—Geology.     CHAPTER XI Little Nicobar and Pulo Milo 118 A Tide-rip—Islets—A Cetacean—Pulo Milo—Timidity of the Natives—Little Nicobar—Geology—Flora—Population—Site for a Colony—Jungle Life—Banian Trees—The Houses and their Peculiarity—The Natives—Practices and Beliefs—The Shom Peṅ—The Harbour—We ascend a River—Kingfishers—Water—Caves—Bats and Swallows—Nests—A Jungle Path—Menchál Island—Collections—Monkeys—Crabs.     CHAPTER XII Kondul and Great Nicobar 131 The Anchorage—The Island—Villages—We leave Kondul—Great Nicobar—Anchorage—Collecting—Up the Creek—A Bat Camp—Young Bats—Traces of the Shom Peṅ—Bird Life—Fish—Ganges Harbour—Land Subsidence—Tupais—We Explore the Harbour—A Jungle Pig—"Jubilee" River—Chinese Navigation—Rainy Weather—Kondul Boys—Coconuts—Chinese Rowing.     CHAPTER XIII Great Nicobar—West Coast 141 Pulo Kunyi—Area of Great Nicobar—Mountains—Rivers—The Village—The Shom Peṅ—Casuarina Bay—An Ingenious "Dog-hobble"—In the Jungle—A Shom Peṅ Village—Men of the Shom Peṅ-A Lazy Morning—The Shom Peṅ
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again—Their Similarity to the Nicobarese—Food—Implements—Cooking-vessel—The Dagmar River—Casuarina Bay—Pulo Nyur—Water—A Boat Expedition—The Alexandra River—Shom Peṅ Villages—Kópenhéat—More Shom Peṅ—Elephantiasis—Pet Monkeys—Anchorage.   CHAPTER XIV Great Nicobar—West and South Coasts 154 "Domeat"—Malay Traders—Trade Prices—The Shom Peṅ Language—Place Names—Pulo Bábi—The Growth of Land—Climbing a Palm Tree—Servitude—Population—Views on Marriage with the Aborigines—Towards the Interior—A Shom Peṅ Village—The Inhabitants—Canoe-building—Barter—The West Coast—South Bay—Walker Island—Chang-ngeh—Up the Galathea River—Water—We leave the Nicobars and sail to Sumatra.  

PART II

CHAPTER I The Andaman Islands and their Inhabitants 167 Position—Soundings—Relationship—Islands—Area—Great Andaman Mountains—Little Andaman—Rivers—Coral Banks—Scenery—Harbours—Timber—Flora—Climate—Cyclones—Geology—Minerals—Subsidence—Earthquakes—History—Aborigines—Convicts and the Penal System—Growth and Resources of the Settlement—Products and Manufactures.     CHAPTER II The Nicobar Islands and their Aborigines 201 The Nicobar Islands and their Aborigines—The Islands—Coral Banks—Nankauri Harbour—Population—Geology—Earthquakes—Climate—Flora—History—The Shom Peṅ: their Derivation, Appearance, Houses, Gardens, Cooking-vessel, Domestic Animals, Manufactures, Trade, Clothing, Headmen, Position of Women, Disposition, Diseases.     CHAPTER III The Nicobarese 221 The Evolution of the Nicobarese—Description—Character—Language—Legends of Origin—Origin of Coco Palms—Invention of Punishments—Superstitious Beliefs—Diseases—Medicines—Marriage—Matriarchal System—Divorce—Polygamy—Courtship—Property—Takoia—Headmen—Social State—Position of Women and Children—Domestic Animals—Weapons—Tools—Fishing—Turtle—Food—Beverages—Narcotics and Stimulants—Cleanliness—Clothing—Ornaments—Coiffure—Amusements—Arts and Industries—Cultivation—Produce—Traders and Commerce.     CHAPTER IV Dampier's Sojourn in Great Nicobar, and Voyage thence to Acheen in a Canoe 254   CHAPTER V An Old Account of Kar Nicobar 276   CHAPTER VI Some Customs of the Kar Nicobarese 285 The Feast of Exhumation—A Scene in the Graveyard—"Katap-hang"—"Kiala"—"Enwan-n'gi"—Fish Charms—Canoe Offerings—"Ramal"—"Gnunota"—Converse with the Dead—"Kewi-apa"—"Maya"—"Yintovná Síya"—Exorcism—"Tanangla"—Other Ceremonies—The "Sano-kuv"—The "Mafai"—The "Tamiluana"—Mafai Ceremonies—Burial—Mourning—Burial Scenes—The Origin of Village Gardens—Destruction of Gardens—Eclipses—Canoe-buying—Dances—Quarrels—"Amok"—Wizardry—Wizard Murders—-Suicides—Land Sale and Tenure—Dislike to Strangers—Cross-bow Accidents—Canoe Voyages—Commercial Occupations—Tallies.     CHAPTER VII The Fauna of the Andamans and Nicobars 320

APPENDICES

A.—Average Wind and Weather in the Andamans 335 B.—Principal Forest Trees of the Andamans 336 C.—Notes on the Produce of the Andaman Forests 339 D.—Census, Andaman Islands, 1901 342 E.—Government Schools at Port Blair 343 F.—Measurements of some Andamanese met at Rutland Island
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align="right">344 G.—Principal Flora of the Nicobars 345 H.—Census, Nicobar Islands, 1901 and 1886 350 I.—Trade Articles and their Value in the Nicobars 351 J.—Presents and Barter in Demand during the Cruise of the Terrapin 352 K.—Measurements of some Nicobarese and Shom Peṅ 353 Index 359

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The "Terrapin" in Kwang-tung Strait Frontispiece Andaman and Nicobar Islands To face page 8 The Landing-place, Barren Island " " 10 The Eruptive Cone, Barren Island " " 12 Ross Island (northern extremity) " " 20 Andamanese Men " " 22 Andamanese Women " " 24 Andamanese Shelter " " 28 Öngé Hut, Little Andaman " " 40 In the Village of Mūs, Kar Nicobar " " 44 Kar Nicobarese Family and Dwelling-house, with Lounge beneath " " 46 A Kitchen House, Mūs Village (showing method of construction) " " 48 Death House, Hospitals, Maternity Houses, and Burial-grod, Mūs Village " " 50 "Talik N'gi" (The Place of the Baby), Mūs Village " " 52 Kar Nicobarese " " 54 "Friend of England" " " 56 Mission Boys and Burmese Teacher, Kar Nicobar " " 60 Women and Children, Kar Nicobar " " 64 Terrapin Bay, Tilanchong " " 66 A Megapode " " 68 A Megapode Mound " "
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class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">70 Inúanga Village, Nankauri Harbour " " 78 Nankauri Canoe, with Festival Decorations " " 80 Kitchen and Dwelling-house, with Festival Tree, Nankauri " " 82 Tanamara's "Kareau" " " 84 Nankauri Man with Dancing Collar and Painted Nose " " 86 Group of Dancers, Nankauri Harbour " " 88 Nankauri Man with Silver Necklace " " 90 Objects from Nankauri Harbour " " 94 Dwelling-houses, Dring Harbour, Kamorta (partially constructed, and complete) " " 98 Fig Tree with Aëreal Roots, Little Nicobar " " 122 Houses, Pulo Milo " " 124 Jungle Vegetation, Little Nicobar " " 126 Man with Pandanus Fruit, Kondul " " 132 Boys of Kondul " " 138 West Coast of Great Nicobar " " 140 Man and Woman of the Shom Peṅ, and a Nicobarese " " 142 A Village of the Shom Peṅ " " 144 Women and Girls of the Shom Peṅ " " 146 Men of the Shom Peṅ " " 148 Men of the Shom Peṅ (in profile) " " 150 Hut of the Shom Peṅ " " 152 Canoe at Pulo Nyur, Great Nicobar " " 154 Huts of the Shom Peṅ " " 158 Men and a Boy of Great Nicobar " " 160 On the Galathea River, Great Nicobar " " 162 Galathea River (highest point reached) " " 164 Hydrographical Chart of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands " " 166 Öngé
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Man, Little Andaman " " 186 Andamanese Objects " " 188 Öngé Visitor at Rutland Island " " 190 Andamanese Bamboo Buckets and Cane Baskets (conical); also Nicobarese Cane Baskets (5), with Tray and Bucket of Spathe " " 200 Men of the Shom Peṅ; Men of the Shom Peṅ (in profile) " " 214 Women of the Shom Peṅ; Women of the Shom Peṅ (in profile) " " 216 Women of the Shom Peṅ; Women of the Shom Peṅ (in profile) " " 218 Huts of the Shom Peṅ " " 220 Man of Nankauri; A Headman of the Shom Peṅ " " 222 "Tanamara" of Nankauri; "Tanamara" of Nankauri (in profile); A Headman of the Shom Peṅ; Headman of the Shom Peṅ (in profile) " " 224 Man of Kar Nicobar; Woman of Kar Nicobar; Kar Nicobar Boy (showing Epicanthus); Kar Nicobar Boy (in profile, showing Prognathism) " " 226 Woman and Man Wearing the "Tá-Chökla," Kar Nicobar " " 228 Man and Woman of Kar Nicobar (in profile) " " 230 Specimens of "Hentá-kói," made and first used in times of sickness to frighten away the offending evil spirits " " 232 A "Hentá," painted and first suspended inside hut in time of sickness, to gratify good spirits and scare away demons. (Specimen from Nankauri) " " 234 Old Nicobarese Skirt, "Ngong" " " 248 Baskets, Troughs, and Areca Spathe Feeding-dish, Nicobar Islands " " 252 Group of Kar Nicobarese " " 284

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT