The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833, by John Auldjo
Title: Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833
Author: John Auldjo
Release Date: December 10, 2008 [eBook #27484]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833***
E-text prepared by Frank van Drogen, Turgut Dincer,
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
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Transcriber's note:
Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of some of these names are given at the end of the book.
JOURNAL
OF
A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
&c. &c.
"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."
Gray's Letters.
London:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.
JOURNAL
OF A
VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
AND
SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS,
IN THE
SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.
BY JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.
AUTHOR OF "THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC,"
"SKETCHES OF VESUVIUS," ETC.
Drawn by Sir W. Gell
VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.]
LONDON:
LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1835.
TO
SIR WILLIAM GELL.
Dear Sir,
On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown.
Your faithful and obedient servant,
The Author.
Naples, April, 1835.
PREFACE.
The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.
The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.
With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.
While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.
Naples, April, 1835.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PageDeparture of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople
1Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene
3My first Night at Sea
4Sunday on Board
5Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew
6Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius
7Scylla and Charybdis. Homer
8The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land
9Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances
10Man overboard. Life Buoy
11Cerigo. Taygetus
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam
13Nauplia de Malvoisie
14Classic Reminiscences. Argos
15Sharks. Greek Costume
16Character of King Otho
17Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet
19Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis
20Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove
21English Residents at Athens
22Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses
23Insolence of the Turks
24Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave
25American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus
26Metropolis of modern Greece
27Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm
28Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map
30Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus
31Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi
32The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus
33Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza
34Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet
35Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour
36Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles
37Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute
38First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers
39The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate
40Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul
41Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage
42Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses
44Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet
45Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies
46Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers
47The Caique. Turkish Boatmen
48Paras. Splendid Fountain.
49Pera. Destructive Fire.
50Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the
51Funeral of a Russian Soldier
52Landing of the British Ambassador
53Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars
54Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes
56Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces
57Value of the Turkish Pipe
58Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile
59Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar
60Jewellery. Broussa Silks
61Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician
62Lord Ponsonby's Audience
63His Reception. Count Orloff
64Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments
65Cricket. Turkish Fleet
66Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters"
67Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries
68Palace. Turkish Horses
69Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek
70The Erraba. Turkish Ladies
71Dancing Dervishes
73Greek Bookseller
76Mosque of Solimanie
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations
78View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar
79Hippodrome
80The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia
81Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key
82Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp
83Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé
84Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana
85Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon
87Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments
88Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct
89Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks
90Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs
91Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story
92College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground
93Sultan's Visit to the Mosque
94Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot
95Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan
96The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior
97His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote
98New Regulation Soldier
99Palace of the British Embassy
100Scene in the Arm Bazaar
101George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants
102Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper
103Jew Brokers. Actæon
104Humours of a Turkish Auction
105Slave Market
106A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary
109Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman
110Oriental Costume
111Turks. Armenians. Greeks
112Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character
113Oriental Politeness. Portraits
114Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt
115Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses
116Hummums
117Eastern Story-teller
121Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul
122Naval Banquet
128Seven Towers
131Tomb of Ali Pasha
134Russian Insolence
136Visit to Ibrahim Pasha
137Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman
138Laughable Anecdote of a Turk
139Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks
141The Muezzin
144Madame Mauvromati. The Plague
146Massacre of the Greeks
147Anecdote of the Sultan
148Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers
151Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks
152Greek Lady. Elegant Costume
153Affability of the Turkish Females
156The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier
157Foreign Visiters
159Oriental Beauty
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey
162Morning Prayer. The Muezzin
163Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart
164Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby
165Russian Insolence to an English Party
166Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha
167Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio
168The Symplegades
169Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth
170Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper
171Grand Review. Splendid Staff
172Giant's Mountain
174Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus
175Prince Butera and the Sultan
177Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince
178Royal Country Seat
180Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring
181Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby
182Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia
183Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby
189Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople
190My fellow-Passengers
192Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora
193Greek Deputation. Anecdote
194Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation
196British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna
199French Squadron. King of Greece
200Smyrna. Excessive Heat
201Departure for Syra
202Island of Tinos. Quarantine
204Landing of the King. Ship Launch
206Festival of St. John the Baptist
208Syra. Bishop's Palace
209Ladies of Mycone. Costume
210Delos. Vulgar Tourists
211Modern Antique
213Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage
214Visit to Antiparos
215Marine Prospects. Spotico
216Entrance to the Cavern
217Perilous Descent
218Melodramatic Scene
219Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage
224Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides
226Splendid Transition
227Dimensions of the Grotto
228Terrified Frenchman. Our Return
229A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene
231Port of Milo
232Warlike Mountaineers
233Anecdote
234Parting of the Royal Brothers
235Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante
236Distant View of Etna. Valetta
238Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine
240The Parlatorio
241Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women
242Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu
243Valetta. Maltese Gazette
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince
245Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata
246Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti
247Temple of Hercules. Concord
248Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon
249Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house
250Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage
251Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves
252Duchess de Berri
253Scene on Board
254Capri. Conclusion
256Addenda.
List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy
257State of the Thermometer at Constantinople
258Note to page 24
259JOURNAL
OF
A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
ETC.
DEPARTURE OF THE ACTÆON.Saturday, 6th April, 1833.—Well! All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actæon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.
The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.
The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"—all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets