VOYAGES
OF THE
ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE.
———
VOLUME I.
P. P. KingT. Landseer
PATAGONIAN.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838
NARRATIVE
OF THE
SURVEYING VOYAGES
OF HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS
ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,
BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836,
DESCRIBING THEIR
EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES
OF
SOUTH AMERICA,
AND
THE BEAGLE'S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE.
———
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
———
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
———
1839.
LONDON:
Printed by. J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street,
Lincoln's-Inn Fields.
VOLUME I.
———
PROCEEDINGS
OF
THE FIRST EXPEDITION,
1826—1830,
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
CAPTAIN P. PARKER KING,
R.N., F.R.S.
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL OF MINTO, G.C.B.,
FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER
OF THE
ADMIRALTY.
———
MY LORD:
I have the honour of dedicating to your lordship, as Head of the Naval Service, this narrative of the Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836.
Originated by the Board of Admiralty, over which Viscount Melville presided, these voyages have been carried on, since 1830, under his lordship's successors in office.
Captain King has authorized me to lay the results of the Expedition which he commanded, from 1826 to 1830, before your lordship, united to those of the Beagle's subsequent voyages.
I have the honour to be,
MY LORD,
Your lordship's obedient servant,
ROBERT FITZ-ROY.
PREFACE.
In this Work, the result of nine years' voyaging, partly on coasts little known, an attempt has been made to combine giving general information with the paramount object—that of fulfilling a duty to the Admiralty, for the benefit of Seamen.
Details, purely technical, have been avoided in the narrative more than I could have wished; but some are added in the Appendix to each volume: and in a nautical memoir, drawn up for the Admiralty, those which are here omitted will be found.
There are a few words used frequently in the following pages, which may not at first sight be familiar to every reader, therefore I need hardly apologize for saying that, although the great Portuguese navigator's name was Magalhaens—it is generally pronounced as if written Magellan:—that the natives of Tierra del Fuego are commonly called Fuegians;—and that Chilóe is thus accented for reasons given in page 384 of the second volume.
In the absence of Captain King, who has entrusted to me the care of publishing his share of this work, I may have overlooked errors which he would have detected. Being hurried, and unwell, while attending to the printing of his volume, I was not able to do it justice.
It may be a subject of regret, that no paper on the Botany of Tierra del Fuego is appended to the first volume. Captain King took great pains in forming and preserving a botanical collection, aided by a person embarked solely for that purpose. He placed this collection in the British Museum, and was led to expect that a first-rate botanist would have examined and described it; but he has been disappointed.
In conclusion, I beg to remind the reader, that the work is unavoidably of a rambling and very mixed character; that some parts may be wholly uninteresting to most readers, though, perhaps, not devoid of interest to all; and that its publication arises solely from a sense of duty.
ROBERT FITZ-ROY.
London, March 1839.
INTRODUCTION
In 1825, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty directed two ships to be prepared for a Survey of the Southern Coasts of South America; and in May, of the following year, the Adventure and the Beagle were lying in Plymouth Sound, ready to carry the orders of their Lordships into execution.
These vessels were well provided with every necessary, and every comfort, which the liberality and kindness of the Admiralty, Navy Board, and officers of the Dock-yards, could cause to be furnished.
On board the Adventure, a roomy ship, of 330 tons burthen, without guns,[1] lightly though strongly rigged, and very strongly built, were—
Phillip Parker King, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition.
J. Cooke Lieutenant. B. Ainsworth Master. J.Gunner—Boatswain—and Carpenter.
Serjeant and fourteen Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys.
In the Beagle, a well-built little vessel, of 235 tons, rigged as a barque, and carrying six guns, were—
Pringle Stokes Commander and Surveyor. E. Hawes Lieutenant. W. G. Skyring Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. S. S. Flinn Master. E. Bowen Surgeon. J. Atrill Purser. J. Kirke Mate. B. Bynoe Assistant Surgeon. J. L. Stokes Midshipman. R. F. Lunie Volunteer 1st Class. W. Jones Volunteer 2d Class. J. Macdouall Clerk.Carpenter.
Serjeant and nine Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys.
In the course of the voyage, several changes occurred among the officers, which it may be well to mention here.
In September, 1826, Lieutenant Hawes invalided: and was succeeded by Mr. R. H. Sholl, the senior mate in the Expedition.
In February, 1827, Mr. Ainsworth was unfortunately drowned; and, in his place, Mr. Williams acted, until superseded by Mr. S. S. Flinn, of the Beagle.
Lieutenant Cooke invalided in June, 1827; and was succeeded by Mr. J. C. Wickham.
In the same month Mr. Graves received information of his promotion to the rank of Lieutenant.
Between May and December, 1827, Mr. Bowen and Mr. Atrill invalided; besides Messrs. Lunie, Jones, and Macdouall: Mr. W. Mogg joined the Beagle, as acting Purser; and Mr. D. Braily, as volunteer of the second class.
Mr. Bynoe acted as Surgeon of the Beagle, after Mr. Bowen left, until December, 1828.
In August, 1828, Captain Stokes's lamented vacancy was temporarily filled by Lieutenant Skyring; whose place was taken by Mr. Brand.
Mr. Flinn was then removed to the Adventure; and Mr. A. Millar put into his place.
In December, 1828, the Commander-in-chief of the Station (Sir Robert Waller Otway) superseded the temporary arrangements of Captain King, and appointed a commander, lieutenant, master, and surgeon to the Beagle. Mr. Brand then invalided, and the lists of officers stood thus—
Adventure (1828-30).
Phillip Parker King, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition.
T. Graves Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. J. C. Wickham Lieutenant. S. S. Flinn Master. J. Tarn Surgeon. G. Rowlett Purser. G. Harrison Mate. W. W. Wilson Mate. E. Williams Second Master. J. Park Assistant Surgeon. A. Mellersh Midshipman. A. Millar Master's Assistant. J. Russell Volunteer 2d Class. G. Hodgskin Clerk. J. Anderson Botanical Collector.Gunner—Boatswain—and Carpenter.
Serjeant and fourteen Marines: and about fifty[2] Seamen and Boys.
Beagle (1828-30).
Robert Fitz-Roy Commander and Surveyor. W. G. Skyring Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. J. Kempe Lieutenant. M. Murray Master. J. Wilson Surgeon. W. Mogg (Acting) Purser. J. Kirke Mate. B. Bynoe Assistant Surgeon. J. L. Stokes Midshipman. J. May Carpenter. D. Braily Volunteer 2d Class. J. Megget Clerk.Serjeant and nine Marines: and about forty Seamen and Boys.
In June, 1829, Lieutenant Mitchell joined the Adventure; and in February, 1830, Mr. A. Millar died very suddenly:—and very much regretted.
The following Instructions were given to the Senior Officer of the Expedition.
"By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.
"Whereas we think fit that an accurate Survey should be made of the Southern Coasts of the Peninsula of South America, from the southern entrance of the River Plata, round to Chilóe; and of Tierra del Fuego; and whereas we have been induced to repose confidence in you, from your conduct of the Surveys in New Holland; we have placed you in the command of His Majesty's Surveying Vessel the Adventure; and we have directed Captain Stokes, of His Majesty's Surveying Vessel the Beagle, to follow your orders.
"Both these vessels are provided with all the means which are necessary for the complete execution of the object above-mentioned, and for the health and comfort of their Ships' Companies. You are also furnished with all the information, we at present possess, of the ports which you are to survey; and nine Government Chronometers have been embarked in the Adventure, and
"You are therefore hereby required and directed, as soon as both vessels shall be in all respects ready, to put to sea with them; and on your way to your ulterior destination, you are to make, or call at, the following places, successively; namely; Madeira: Teneriffe: the northern point of St. Antonio, and the anchorage at St. Jago; both in the Cape Verd Islands: the Island of Trinidad, in the Southern Atlantic: and Rio de Janeiro: for the purpose of ascertaining the differences of the longitudes of those several places.
"At Rio de Janeiro, you will receive any supplies you may require; and make with the Commander-in-chief, on that Station, such arrangements as may tend to facilitate your receiving further supplies, in the course of your Expedition.
"After which, you are to proceed to the entrance of the River Plata, to ascertain the longitudes of the Cape Santa Maria, and Monte Video: you are then to proceed to survey the Coasts, Islands, and Straits; from Cape St. Antonio, at the south side of the River Plata, to Chilóe; on the west coast of America; in such manner and order, as the state of the season, the information you may have received, or other circumstances, may induce you to adopt.
"You are to continue on this service until it shall be completed; taking every opportunity to communicate to our Secretary, and the Commander-in-Chief, your proceedings: and also, whenever you may be able to form any judgment of it, where the Commander-in-Chief, or our Secretary, may be able to communicate with you.
"In addition to any arrangements made with the Admiral, for recruiting your stores, and provisions; you are, of course, at liberty to take all other means, which may be within your reach, for that essential purpose.
"You are to avail yourself of every opportunity of collecting and preserving Specimens of such objects of Natural History as may be new, rare, or interesting; and you are to instruct Captain Stokes, and all the other Officers, to use their best diligence in increasing the Collections in each ship: the whole of which must be understood to belong to the Public.
"In the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the two vessels, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled vessel to be removed into the other, and with her, singly, to proceed in prosecution of the service, or return to England, according as circumstances shall appear to require; understanding that the officers and crews of both vessels are hereby authorized, and required, to continue to perform their duties, according to their respective ranks and stations, on board either vessel to which they may be so removed. Should, unfortunately, your own vessel be the one disabled, you are in that case to take the command of the Beagle: and, in the event of any fatal accident happening to yourself; Captain Stokes is hereby authorized to take the command of the Expedition; either on board the Adventure, or Beagle, as he may prefer; placing the officer of the Expedition who may then be next in seniority to him, in command of the second vessel: also, in the event of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, at any period of this service, to continue to carry the Instructions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Stokes, or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, who is hereby required to execute them, in the best manner he can, for the attainment of the object in view.
"When you shall have completed the service, or shall, from any cause, be induced to give it up; you will return to Spithead with all convenient expedition; and report your arrival, and proceedings, to our Secretary, for our information.
"Whilst on the South American Station, you are to consider yourself under the command of the Admiral of that Station; to whom we have expressed our desire that he should not interfere with these orders, except under peculiar necessity.
"Given under our hands the 16th of May 1826.
(Signed) "Melville.
"G. Cockburn.
"To Phillip P. King, Esq., Commander
of His Majesty's Surveying Vessel
Adventure, at Plymouth.
"By command of their Lordships.
(Signed) "J. W. Croker."
On the 22d of May, 1826, the Adventure and Beagle sailed from Plymouth; and, in their way to Rio de Janeiro, called successively at Madeira, Teneriffe, and St. Jago.
Unfavourable weather prevented a boat being sent ashore at the northern part of San Antonio; but observations were made in Terrafal Bay, on the south-west side of the island: and, after crossing the Equator, the Trade-wind hung so much to the southward, that Trinidad could not be approached without a sacrifice of time, which, it was considered, might be prejudicial to more important objects of the Expedition.
Both ships anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the 10th of August, and remained there until the 2d of October, when they sailed to the River Plata.
In Maldonado,[3] their anchors were dropped on the 13th of the same month; and, till the 12th of November, each vessel was employed on the north side of the river, between Cape St. Mary and Monte Video.
CONTENTS
VOLUME I.
———
CHAPTER I. PAGE Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena—Geological remarks—Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk—Natural History—Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan) 1 CHAPTER II. Enter the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor off Cape Possession—First Narrow—Gregory Bay—Patagonian Indians—Second Narrow—Elizabeth Island—Freshwater Bay—Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine 12 CHAPTER III. Prepare the Beagle, and a decked boat (the Hope) for surveying the Strait—Beagle sails westward, and the Hope towards the south-east—Sarmiento's Voyage—and description of the colony formed by him at Port Famine—Steamer Duck—Large trees—Parroquets—Mount Tarn—Barometrical observations—Geological character—Report of the Hope's cruise 26 CHAPTER IV. Deer seen—Hope sails again—Eagle Bay—Gabriel Channel—'Williwaws'—Port Waterfall—Natives—Admiralty Sound—Gabriel Channel—Magdalen Channel—Hope returns to Port Famine—San Antonio—Lomas Bay—Loss of boat—Master and two seamenDIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER
FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
Map of South America Loose. Strait of Magalhaens———
Note.—The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the covers of the volumes.
ERRATA et CORRIGENDA.
———
Page 76, line 4 from bottom, for lying, read being.
118, Heading, line 4, for Beagle sailed, read Beagle sails.
123, line 17, insert narrow, before and shoal.
164, line 23, instead of the, read our.
174, line 6, for cuts, read cut.
193, line 5, for have, read had.
223, (Note) line 2 from bottom, for they, read he.
229, line 9, for was, read were.
265, line 8, after day, insert a colon instead of a comma.
273, line 21, after as well, insert as.
301, line 23, for Lieutenants Skyring and Graves again took with them, read Lieutenant Skyring again took with him.
411, line 2, dele the.
437, line 16, for contiue, read continue.
443, line 19, for wit, read with.
462, line 21, for Santa Catalina, read Santa Catharina.
473, line 17, after which is, insert a.
481, bottom line, for 53. 32. 30, read 53. 52. 30.
485, line 7, (of positions) for 53. 31, read 53. 51.
—— bottom line, for 11. 51, read 3. 26.
488, line 9, for Northern, read Southern.
489, line 4 from bottom, for 46. 03, read 46. 30; and for 40. 50, read 40. 05.
490, line 6, for 50°, read 49°.
491, line 6, for 36. 56, read 36. 16.
493, line 9, for 54. 30. 00, read 54. 05. 20; and for 73. 1. 30, read 73. 25. 30.
526, for Variation, read Dip.
MAMMALIA.
529, line 8, for Harlau read Harlan.
531, line 6, for Keroda read Kerodon.
BIRDS.
532, line 1, for Dumérel, read Duméril.
—— line 7, for Miloago, read Milvago.
—— line 19, for Sparoerius, read Sparverius.
533, line 16, dele Spix.
—— bottom line, for Silvia, read Sylvia, and in next page the same.
534, line 12, dele Fursa, Veillot.
—— line 10 from bottom, for Smaragdimis, read Smaragdinus.
536, line 9 from bottom, for Strutheo, read Struthio.
—— line 6 from bottom, for rinacea, read binacea.
537, line 14, for Totamus, read Totanus.
538, line 5, for subtas, read subtus.
—— lower lines, where Hœmatopus occurs, read Hæmatopus.
540, last line, for meneque, read mineque; and for pariè, read parcè.
541, line 12, for Catarrhoctes, read Catarrhactes.
—— line 2 from bottom, for ud, read ad.
543, line 13, for gracillimus, read gracillimis.
SHELLS.
545, last line, for brachyptera, read brachypterus; for Patachonica, read Patachonicus.