OLD AND NEW PARIS
Its History, its People, and its Places
BY
H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS
AUTHOR OF “IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE” “THE GERMANS IN FRANCE” “THE
RUSSIANS AT HOME” ETC. ETC.
VOL. I
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
C A S S E L L AND C O M P A N Y LIMITED
LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE
1893
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. PAGE PARIS: A GENERAL GLANCE. 1 CHAPTER II. THE EXPANSION OF PARISLutetia—La Cité—Lutetia taken by Labienus—The Visit of Julian the Apostate—Besieged by the Franks—The Norman Invasion—Gradual Expansion from the Île de la Cité to the Outer Boulevards—M. Thiers’s Line of Outworks
6 CHAPTER III. THE LEFT BANK AND THE RIGHT.Paris and London—The Rive Gauche—The Quartier Latin—The Pantheon—The Luxemburg—The School of Medicine—The School of Fine Arts—The Bohemia of Paris—The Rive Droite—Paris Proper—The “West End”
9 CHAPTER IV. NOTRE DAME.The Cathedral of Notre Dame, a Temple to Jupiter—Cæsar and Napoleon—Relics in Notre Dame—Its History—Curious Legends—The “New Church”—Remarkable Religious Ceremonies—The Place de Grève—The Days of Sorcery—“Monsieur de Paris”—Dramatic Entertainments—Coronation of Napoleon
12 CHAPTER V. SAINT-GERMAIN-L’AUXERROISThe Massacre of St. Bartholomew—The Events that preceded it—Catherine de Medicis—Admiral Coligny—“The King-Slayer”—The Signal for the Massacre—Marriage of the Duc de Joyeuse and Marguerite of Lorraine
22 CHAPTER VI. THE PONT-NEUF AND THE STATUE OF HENRI IV.The Oldest Bridge in Paris—Henri IV.—His Assassination by Ravaillac—Marguerite of Valois—The Statue of Henri IV.—The Institute—The Place de Grève
30 CHAPTER VII. THE BOULEVARDS.From the Bastille to the Madeleine—Boulevard Beaumarchais—Beaumarchais—The Marriage of Figaro—The Bastille—The Drama in Paris—Adrienne Lecouvreur—Vincennes—The Duc d’Enghien—Duelling—Louis XVI
43 CHAPTER VIII. THE BOULEVARDS (continued).Hôtel Carnavalet—Hôtel Lamoignon—Place Royale—Boulevard du Temple—The Temple—Louis XVII—The Theatres—Astley’s Circus—Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe—Trial of Fieschi—The Café Turc—The Cafés—The Folies Dramatiques—Louis XVI. and the Opera—Murder of the Duke of Berri
67 CHAPTER IX. THE BOULEVARDS (continued).The Porte Saint-Martin—Porte Saint-Denis—The Burial Place of the French Kings—Funeral of Louis XV.—Funeral of the Count de Chambord—Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle—Boulevard Poissonnière—Boulevard Montmartre—Frascati
95 CHAPTER X. BOULEVARD AND OTHER CAFÉS.The Café Littéraire—Café Procope—Café Foy—Bohemian Cafés—Café Momus—Death of Molière—New Year’s Gifts
107 CHAPTER XI. THE BOULEVARDS (continued).The Opéra Comique of Paris—I Gelosi—The Don Juan of Molière—Madame Favart—The Saint-Simonians
115 CHAPTER XII. THE BOULEVARDS (continued).La Maison Dorée—Librairie Nouvelle—Catherine II. and the Encyclopædia—The House of Madeleine Guimard
122 CHAPTER XIII. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.Its History—Louis XV.—Fireworks—The Catastrophe in 1770—Place de la Révolution—Louis XVI.—The Directory
143 CHAPTER XIV. THE PLACE VENDÔME.The Column of Austerlitz—The Various Statues of Napoleon Taken Down—The Church of Saint-Roch—Mlle. Raucourt—Joan of Arc
155 CHAPTER XV. THE JACOBIN CLUB.The Jacobins—Chateaubriand’s Opinion of Them—Arthur Young’s Descriptions—The New Club
161 CHAPTER XVI. THE PALAIS ROYAL.Richelieu’s Palace—The Regent of Orleans—The Duke of Orleans—Dissipation in the Palais Royal—The Palais National—The Birthplace of Revolutions
166 CHAPTER XVII. THE COMÉDIE FRANÇAISE.Its History—The Roman Comique—Under Louis XV.—During the Revolution—Hernani
172 CHAPTER XVIII. THE NATIONAL LIBRARY AND THE BOURSE.The “King’s Library”—Francis I. and the Censorship—The Imperial Library—The Bourse
187 CHAPTER XIX. THE LOUVRE AND THE TUILERIES.The Louvre—Origin of the Name—The Castle—Francis I.—Catherine de Medicis—The Queen’s Apartments—Louis XIV. and the Louvre—The Museum of the Louvre—The Picture Galleries—The Tuileries—The National Assembly—Marie Antoinette—The Palace of Napoleon III.—“Petite Provence”
193 CHAPTER XX. THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES AND THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE.The Champs Élysées—The Élysée Palace—Longchamps—The Bois de Boulogne—The Château de Madrid—The Château de la Muette—The Place de l’Étoile
218 CHAPTER XXI. THE CHAMP DE MARS AND PARIS EXHIBITIONS.The Royal Military School of Louis XV.—The National Assembly—The Patriotic Altar—The Festival of the Supreme Being—Other Festivals—Industrial Exhibitions—The Eiffel Tower—The Trocadéro
229 CHAPTER XXII. THE HÔTEL DE VILLE AND CENTRAL PARIS.The Hôtel de Ville—Its History—In 1848—The Communards
242 CHAPTER XXIII. THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE.The Palais de Justice—Its Historical Associations—Disturbances in Paris—Successive Fires—During the Revolution—The Administration of Justice—The Sainte-Chapelle
250 CHAPTER XXIV. THE FIRE BRIGADE AND THE POLICE.The Sapeurs-pompiers—The Prefect of Police—The Garde Républicaine—The Spy System
270 CHAPTER XXV. THE PARIS HOSPITALS.The Place du Parvis—The Parvis of Notre Dame—The Hôtel-Dieu—Mercier’s Criticisms
276 CHAPTER XXVI. CENTRAL PARIS.The Hôtel de Ville—Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie—Rue Saint-Antoine—The Reformation
281 CHAPTER XXVII. CENTRAL PARIS (continued).Rue de Venise—Rachel—St.-Nicholas-in-the-Fields—The Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers—The Gaieté—Rue des Archives—The Mont de Piété—The National Printing Office—The Hôtel Lamoignon
298 CHAPTER XXVIII. CENTRAL PARIS (continued).The Rue Saint-Denis—Saint-Leu-Saint-Gilles—George Cadoudal—Saint-Eustache—The Central Markets—The General Post Office
311 CHAPTER XXIX. THE “NATIONAL RAZOR.”The Rue de l’Arbre Sec—Dr. Guillotin—Dr. Louis—The Guillotine—The First Political Execution
327 CHAPTER XXX. THE EXECUTIONER.The Executioner—His Taxes and Privileges—Monsieur de Paris—Victor of Nîmes
330 CHAPTER XXXI. PÈRE-LACHAISE.The Cemeteries of Clamart and Picpus—Père-Lachaise—La Villette and Chaumont—The Conservatoire—Rue Laffitte—The Rothschilds—Montmartre—Clichy
333 CHAPTER XXXII. PARIS DUELS.The Legal Institution of the Duel—The Congé de la Bataille—In the Sixteenth Century—Jarnac—Famous Duels
345 CHAPTER XXXIII. THE STUDENTS OF PARIS.Paris Students—Their Character—In the Middle Ages—At the Revolution—Under the Directory—In 1814—In 1819—Lallemand—In the Revolution of 1830
355 CHAPTER XXXIV. THE RAG-PICKER OF PARIS.The Chiffonier or Rag-picker—His Methods and Hours of Work—His Character—A Diogenes—The Chiffonier de Paris
360 CHAPTER XXXV. THE BOHEMIAN OF PARIS.Béranger’s Bohemians—Balzac’s Definition—Two Generations—Henri Mürger
365 CHAPTER XXXVI. THE PARIS WAITER.The Garçon—The Development of the Type—The Garçon’s Daily Routine—His Ambitions and Reverses
369 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE PARIS COOK.Brillat Savarin on the Art of Cooking—The Cook and the Roaster—Cooking in the Seventeenth Century—Louis XV.—Mme. de Maintenon
372LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
[Illustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading.
(note of e-text transcriber.)]
Boulevard des Italiens
FrontispiecePlace de la Concorde
1The Left Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame
4Right Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame
5On the Boulevards—Corner of Place de l’Opéra
8Théâtre Français
9A Street Scene
11Notre Dame
12The Choir Stalls, Notre Dame
13Rue du Cloitre
16Apsis of Notre Dame
17The Leaden Spire, Notre Dame
20Gargoyles in the Sacristy, Notre Dame
21Church of Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois
24(Map) Principal Streets of Paris
25Scene during the Massacre of St. Bartholomew
28The Pont-Neuf and the Louvre, from the Quai des Augustins
30By the Pont-Neuf
32Seine Fishers
32View from the Pavilion de Flore
facing 33The Pont-Neuf and the Mint
33Statue of Henri IV. on the Pont-Neuf
36The Institute
37The Pont-Neuf from the Island
40View from the Western Point of the Île de la Cité
Place de la Bastille and Column of July
45Junction of Grands Boulevards and Rue and Faubourg Montmartre
48The Bastille
49The Conquerors of the Bastille
53À la Robespierre
56A Lady of 1793
56A Tricoteuse
56Map showing the Extension of Paris
57Adrienne Lecouvreur
61A Duel in the Bois de Boulogne
64The Seine from Notre Dame
facing 65Recruits
65Hôtel Carnavalet
68Hôtel Lamoignon
69Statue of Louis XIII. in the Place des Vosges
71The Place des Vosges, formerly Place Royale
72The Arcade in the Place des Vosges
73The Winter Circus in the Boulevard des Filles de Calvaire
77Louis Philippe
80Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe
81A Parisian Café
84Place de la République
85Frédéric Lemaître
89Porte Saint-Martin and the Renaissance Theatre
92Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Saint-Martin
93Apsis of Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Brisemiche
96Notre Dame
facing 97Entrance to the Faubourg Saint-Denis
97Boulevard and Porte Saint-Denis
101Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle and the Gymnase Theatre
104The Boulevard Montmartre
105Entrance to the Théâtre des Variétés, Boulevard Montmartre
109Cafés on the Boulevard Montmartre
112Molière
113Street Coffee Stall
114Boulevard des Italiens
116The 6th of June; the Last of the Insurrection
121Marivaux
124Paris in the Seventeenth Century
125Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin
128View from the Roof of the Opera House
facing 129Mlle. Clairon
129View from the Balcony of the Opera
132Avenue de l’Opéra
133One of the Domes of the Opera House
135Eastern Pavilion, Opera House
136The Public Foyer, Opera House
137Western Pavilion, Opera House
140The Staircase of the Opera House
141The Madeleine
144Interior of the Madeleine
145Place de la Concorde
149Place de la Concorde, from the Terrace of the Tuileries
152Trial of Louis XVI
153Top of the Vendôme Column
155The Place Vendôme
157Rue Castiglione
160A First Night at the Comédie Française—The Foyer
facing 161Mirabeau
161Robespierre
164The Palais Royal
165Gardens of the Palais Royal
The Palais Royal after the Siege
169The Montpensier Gallery, Palais Royal
170Entrance to the Comédie Française
172The Public Foyer, Comédie Française
173The Green Room, Comédie Française
176Molière
177Corneille
180Voltaire
181The Committee of the Comédie Française: Alexandre Dumas (the younger) Reading a Play
185Behind the Scenes, Comédie Française
186Entrance to the National Library in the Rue des Petits Champs
188The Bourse
189The Apollo Gallery—The Louvre
facing 193The Louvre, from the Place du Carrousel
193The Old Louvre (Pierre Lescot’s Façade)
195The Colonnade of the Louvre
196Portion of the Façade of Henri IV.’s Gallery, Louvre
197Top of the Marsan Pavilion, Louvre
200The Marsan and Flora Pavilions, Louvre, from the Pont-Royal
201The Richelieu Pavilion
205The Tuileries in the Eighteenth Century
208The Terrace, Tuileries Gardens
209The Tuileries Gardens
209Lion in the Tuileries Gardens
211The Chestnuts of the Tuileries
212Louis XVI. Stopped at Varennes by Drouet
213The Royal Family at Varennes
216Monument to Gambetta, Place du Carrousel
217The Horses of Marly, Champs Élysées
220The Elysée
221Saint-Philippe du Roule
221The Great Lake, Bois de Boulogne
223Avenue du Bois de Boulogne
224Arc de Triomphe
facing 225Avenue des Champs Élysées
225Avenue Marigny, Champs Élysées
227Fountain in the Champs Élysées
228The Champ de Mars, 1889
229The Military School, Champ de Mars
232General La Fayette
233The Palais de l’Industrie, Champs Élysées
236View Showing Exhibition of 1889
237View from the First Platform of the Eiffel Tower
240The Trocadéro
241Hôtel de Ville in the Fifteenth Century
244Attack on the Hôtel de Ville, 1830
245Statue of Étienne Marcel on the Quai Hôtel de Ville
246The Municipal Council Chamber, Hôtel de Ville
248Île St. Louis
249The Quai de l’Horloge
252Pont au Change and Palais de Justice
253The Clock of the Palais de Justice
255Entrance to the Court of Assize
256The Palais de Justice
facing 257The Palais de Justice and Sainte-Chapelle
257The Façade of the Old Palais de Justice
260The Salle des Pas Perdus
261Police Carriages
263The Conciergerie, Palais de Justice
264The Sainte-Chapelle
265The Upper Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle
268The Tribunal of Commerce
269A Pompier
272A Guardian of the Peace
273An Orderly of the Garde de Paris
274A Gendarme
277Principal Court of the Hôtel-Dieu
280Rue de Rivoli
281Façade of the Church of St. Gervais and St. Protais; and the Apsis, from the Rue des Barres
284Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie
285Hôtel de Beauvais
286Church of St. Louis and St. Paul
288Rue de Rivoli and Hôtel de Ville
facing 289Rue Grenier-sur-l’eau
289The Pont-Marie
292Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Île
293Pont au Change, Place du Châtelet, and Boulevard de Sebastopol
296The Palmier Fountain, Place du Châtelet
297Rue de Venise
299St. Nicholas-in-the-Fields
300The Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers
301The Vertbois Tower and Fountain
303The Gaieté Theatre
304In the Temple Market
305The Temple Market
305Sixteenth Century Cloisters, Rue des Billettes
307Palace of the National Archives
308Hôtel de Hollande
309Turret at Corner of Rues Vieille du Temple and Francs Bourgeois
309Rue de Birague, leading to the Place des Vosges
311Fountain of the Innocents
312Saint-Eustache
313A Market Scene
315An Auction Sale of Poultry in the Central Market
316Rue Rambuteau in the Early Morning
317On the Way to the Central Markets
319The Fish Market
320Interior of the Mont de Piété, Rue Capron
facing 321The General Post Office
321The Poste Restante
321The Public Hall, General Post Office
323The Telephone Room at the General Post Office
324Place des Victoires
325Rue de la Vrillière
328In Père-Lachaise
333Parc des Buttes Chaumont
336Montmartre
340The Synagogue in the Rue de la Victoire
341St. Peter’s Church, Montmartre
343The Bells of St. Peter’s
343The New Municipal Reservoir and the Church of the Sacred Heart, Montmartre
344The Caulaincourt Bridge, Montmartre
344In the Parc Monceau
345Diana of Poitiers
348Marshal Ney
352The Race-course, Longchamps
facing 353Camille Desmoulins
356The Polytechnic School
357Notre Dame from the Pont Saint-Louis
360A Rag-picker
361A Rag-picker
The Boulevard Poissonière
368Selling Goats
369The Bird Market
373Madame de Maintenon
375