Sequoia
[CALIFORNIA]
National Park
United States Department of the Interior
Harold L. Ickes, Secretary
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
Arno B. Cammerer, Director
UNITED STATES
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON: 1937
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The Principal Attractions in the park which the visitor should see are as follows:
One-Day Stay.—Should include the Sherman Tree, Lodgepole Camp, Moro Rock, Parker Group, Crescent Meadow, and Tharp Cabin Log in the Giant Forest district. A drive out the Generals Highway to Lost Grove and General Grant National Park should be included.
Two-Day Stay.—In addition to the above should include the Alta Trail as far as McKinley Tree, Congress Group, and the High Sierra Trail to Eagle View.
Three-Day Stay.—Should include in addition, Tokopah Valley, Sugar Pine Trail to Kaweah Vista, and view of Marble Falls, from Admiration Point.
Four-Day to a Week Stay.—Will enable the visitor to see all of the foregoing attractions and to take the high mountain trips on High Sierra Trail to the cream of Sierra scenery at River Valley, Hamilton Lake, or Tamarack Lakes; to Twin Lakes, Alta Meadows and Peaks, Mount Silliman, Emerald and Heather Lakes, The Watchtower, Colony Mill, Little Baldy Fire Lookout, Admiration Point, and Marble Falls, with many other points.
Three-Week to a Month Stay.—Will permit a trail trip through wonderful country by the High Sierra Trail over Kaweah Gap to Big Arroyo, Kern Canyon, and Mount Whitney through the finest scenery of the Sierra Nevada. The Kern Canyon is a 25-mile valley with 3,000-foot walls, fine fishing, and lovely waterfalls.
It is no exaggeration to state that any length of time from 1 day to all summer may be profitably and enjoyably spent in the park. New beauties and natural wonders will be unfolded each day.
Events
OF HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE
PARK REGULATIONS
Briefed
Please Study the Regulations. Deliberate infractions may bring a penalty not to exceed $500 fine, or 6 months imprisonment, or both.
Suggestions, complaints, or comments regarding any phase of the park operation should be communicated immediately to the superintendent, or to any ranger or park officer, who will notify the superintendent.
Camps.—Camping is permitted only in numbered and designated camp sites. As far as possible, burn garbage in camp fire, and deposit empty cans and residue in garbage cans provided. Do not wash clothing or cooking utensils under hydrants, in streams, lakes, or otherwise pollute the water in the park. Observe quiet hours—at least from 10 p. m. until 6 a. m. Consider your neighbor.
Automobiles.—Cars must be equipped with good brakes, horns, and lights. Careful driving is required for the protection of yourself and others. Keep to the right of the road and avoid passing on curves. Speed limit signs are posted. Obey traffic rules and regulations. Permit fee is $1, allowing entrance to General Grant National Park also. Automobiles are not permitted in the park through the Ash Mountain or Lost Grove entrances after 9 p. m. or before 5 a. m., except Saturdays or days preceding holidays, when the closing hour for entry is 11 p. m.
Trash.—Deposit papers, lunch refuse, film carton, gum, or wrappers of any nature in receptacles provided.
Fires.—Light fires only in designated places. Extinguish completely before leaving camp even for temporary absence. Know your fire is out.
Smoking.—During the fire-hazard season,
Trees, flowers, shrubs.—Do not pick flowers or write or carve your name on objects in the park. Down timber, except sequoia, may be used for firewood, unless posted not to be disturbed.
Animals and birds.—Do not kill, capture, or scare. The animals are your friends.
Dogs and cats.—Dogs and cats are prohibited on the park lands except upon written permission of the superintendent, secured upon entrance.
Fishing.—Get a State angling license. Apply to the nearest park ranger for the current year's fishing regulations. Avoid closed waters. Do not dig in the meadows for bait.
Park rangers.—The rangers are here to help and advise you, as well as to enforce regulations. When in doubt, ask a ranger.
Articles lost and found.—Should be reported to the ranger station at Giant Forest Village or at Ash Mountain. Persons should leave their names so that articles not claimed within 60 days may be returned to the finder.
Complete regulations may be seen at the office of the superintendent and at ranger stations.
Contents
- Page
- Season 1
- Administration and Headquarters 2
- How to Reach the Park 2
- By Railroad and Auto Stage 2
- By Airplane 3
- By Automobile 3
- Automobile Entrances 4
- Road-sign Information 5
- Trail Entrances 5
- Special Attractions 7
- Outstanding Views 9
- The Giant Forest District 11
- The Meadows 11
- The Sequoias 11
- Origin of the Name "Sequoia" 15
- The Groves 15
- Fishing 15
- Bathing 16
- Free Campgrounds 16
- Pay Accommodations 16
- Miscellaneous Services 17
- Post Office 17
- Telephone and Telegraph Service 17
- Medical Service 17
- Religious Services 17
- Giant Forest Library 17
- Special Winter Attractions 17
- Other Attractions 19
- Museum, Lecture, and Trail Guide Service 20
- The Trails 20
- Fauna and Flora
SEQUOIA
National Park
OPEN ALL YEAR
Where blossomed many an incense-bearing tree;
And here were forests ancient as the hills,
Enfolding sunny spots of greenery.
—Kubla Khan.
The Sequoia National Park, which is located in eastern central California, was created by the act of September 25, 1890, and enlarged by act of July 3, 1926. Its area is now approximately 604 square miles. The park is situated on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada and was established to preserve the groves and forests of California Big Trees (Sequoia gigantea).
It contains not only the largest and perhaps oldest trees in the world, but many other superb scenic attractions.
It is easily reached by train and auto stage or by private automobiles, is open the year round, and accommodations are available at all times.
SEASON
The Sequoia National Park is open all year through the Ash Mountain entrance to Giant Forest. From May 25 to September 5 the Giant Forest Lodge, Kaweah Housekeeping Camp, Pinewood Automobile Camp, lunch-room, store, and service station are operated for the accommodation of visitors. From September 5 to May 25, the remainder of the year, the Giant Forest Winter Camp is available, providing American-plan and housekeeping accommodations in comfortable cabins. All year accommodations are provided as well for campers with their own equipment. From early May until snowfall (generally about the middle of November) the National Park Service maintains camps at Giant Forest with running water, sanitary facilities, and garbage disposal. Campgrounds are also provided the year round at lower elevations, principally at Buckeye Flat, 2,800 feet, and Hospital Rock Camp, 2,700 feet. At all times of the year visitors camping at Hospital Rock can drive in and out of Giant Forest in an hour or two.
At Hospital Rock during the entire year lodging accommodations in cabins and in the auto camp are available. A general store, gasoline station, and lunch counter are operated here the year round, and photographic supplies may also be obtained. Particularly during the winter months, November to April, many find it most pleasant to avail themselves of the Hospital Rock accommodations and drive in and out of Giant Forest during the day.
ADMINISTRATION AND HEADQUARTERS
The general headquarters for the Sequoia National Park is at Ash Mountain, on the Generals Highway. An information office is also maintained at Giant Forest.
Mail, telephone, and telegraph messages for the superintendent should be addressed to Sequoia National Park, Calif.; the representative of the National Park Service in charge is the superintendent, John R. White.
The United States Government has exclusive jurisdiction over the park (act of California Legislature, Apr. 15, 1919, and act of Congress, June 1920, 41 Stat. 731). Walter Fry is the United States commissioner for the park.
The Sequoia National Park is little more than an hour distant from points on the Golden State Highway (U S 99). The following table is accurate as to distances between points in California and the Sequoia National Park.
HOW TO REACH THE PARK
BY RAILROAD AND AUTO STAGE
Fresno, Visalia, and Exeter are the railway gateways to Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, served by the Southern Pacific Railway and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. These cities are reached by an easy overnight journey from either Los Angeles or San Francisco. Pullman service is available daily to Fresno, and three times a week to Exeter and Visalia.
The standard tour of Sequoia and General Grant National Parks is, in one direction only, from Fresno, via Visalia and Exeter, to Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park, thence via the Generals Highway to General Grant National Park,
From June 10 to September 10, an auto stage of the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks Co. leaves Fresno daily at 8 a. m. for Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park, by way of Visalia and Exeter, arriving at Giant Forest about 12:15 p. m. From there the auto stage leaves about 1:45 p. m. for the return trip to Fresno, via General Grant National Park, over the spectacular new Generals Highway, arriving at Fresno 6:30 p. m. This circle tour service enables travelers to visit both parks easily.
From September 11 to June 9 "On Call" service by advance reservation is provided from Visalia and Exeter to Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park, and return over the same route, but no service is available to General Grant National Park during this period.
Special excursion fares are in effect on the railroads during the summer in connection with trips to Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. Detailed information about railroad service and rates may be obtained from local railroad ticket agents; the passenger traffic manager of the Southern Pacific Lines, San Francisco; the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, Chicago; or the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks Co., Sequoia National Park, Calif.
Sequoia and General Grant National Parks are easily reached from many points. Visitors find the various routes and methods of transportation equally comfortable and enjoyable.
BY AIRPLANE
Airplane service is available through a bi-daily service to Fresno by the United Air Lines, connecting with its transcontinental service at Oakland and that of T. W. A., Inc., and American Airlines at Los Angeles. Private planes may land at the Three Rivers airport, 6 miles from Ash Mountain.
BY AUTOMOBILE
From San Francisco the motor route to Sequoia National Park is by the Golden State Highway through San Joaquin Valley to Fresno and Visalia. Visalia is the motorists' headquarters for the mountain trip and is a pleasant county seat of about 6,500 people, with excellent hotel and stores. Ash Mountain is 36 miles from Visalia by paved highway via either Lemon Cove or Woodlake. Giant Forest is 17 miles farther by excellent mountain road. The motor journey from Visalia to Giant Forest is easily made in 2 hours.
From Los Angeles the motorist has a choice of highway routes after leaving Bakersfield either via Tulare and Visalia or by Delano, Porterville, and Exeter. There are good accommodations in any of these towns.
Full information relative to the best routes, road conditions, etc., may be obtained from the California State Automobile Association, San Francisco; the National Automobile Club, San Francisco; the Automobile Club of Southern California, Los Angeles; and from branch offices of any automobile club in California. All automobile club offices post the latest bulletins from the superintendent's office.
An automobile license fee of $1 is required except on the Mineral King Road. It is payable at any of the entrance stations. The same license permits entrance to both Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, good for the entire calendar year.
AUTOMOBILE ENTRANCES
The Generals Highway, leading to Giant Forest by way of the Kaweah River, Middle Fork, is the main artery of travel in the park, connecting directly with the paved State highway at the park boundary and reached from all points north and south through the various towns of the San Joaquin Valley. The Generals Highway is a fine surfaced mountain road, wide and of easy grade, leading the visitor past Ash Mountain headquarters, Camps Potwisha and Hospital Rock, to Giant Forest, 17 miles from the entrance, and the heart of the present development among the Big Trees. From Giant Forest it continues on past the Sherman Tree to Lodgepole Camp (4 miles), crosses the Marble Fork, and, winding through mixed fir and pine forests, crossing streams and meadows with many a forest and mountain vista, leaves the park 11 miles farther on at the Lost Grove Ranger Station. For the convenience of motorists, water stations and telephones for emergency use will be found at intervals along the highway through the park. The highway continues on 15 miles farther through scenic country to General Grant National Park, where it connects with the State highway to either Visalia or Fresno. This makes possible a circle trip through both parks, via either the Ash Mountain entrance or the Lost Grove entrance and via either Visalia or Fresno. The Generals Highway is open to Giant Forest, via the Ash Mountain entrance, all year except immediately after unusually severe storms in winter.
The Mineral King Road, leaving the State highway at Hammond, 5 miles above Three Rivers, and following the east fork of the Kaweah River, crosses the central part of the park, passing Atwell station and camp in a forest of Big Trees, and ends at the summer resort of Mineral King, in the national forest and game refuge beyond.
ROAD-SIGN INFORMATION
All signs in the parks are official. It is important and helpful to read them.
The motorist should observe the road signs, always have his car under full control, keep to the right, and sound horn when on curves that are blind.
Speed must not exceed 15 miles an hour on grades when rounding sharp curves. On straight open stretches the speed must not exceed 35 miles an hour. Speed limit signs inform the driver of maximum speeds allowed in the various areas. Careful driving is required at all times. Descend hills in gear, and drive more slowly downhill than uphill. These are scenic roads; take time to enjoy them.
TRAIL ENTRANCES
Numerous trails cross the park boundary from all directions. The South Fork, or Hockett Trail, starts at the end of the South Fork Road 13 miles above Three Rivers at the Clough Cave entrance to the park. This is a main-traveled trail to southern points in the park—Garfield Grove, Kern Canyon, and Mount Whitney.
The south trail entrance is reached from the end of the automobile road at Camp Nelson, in the national forest east of Porterville; thence by trail to the Kern Canyon station at Golden Trout Creek. The Kern Canyon entrance is reached also by trail from Lone Pine and other Inyo County points via Cottonwood Pass on the main crest of the Sierra, somewhat south of the park line. The higher reaches of the Kern River within the park may be reached from this trail by a direct route crossing Siberian Pass on the park boundary, where this is defined by a secondary divide.
A foot-and-horse trail runs to the summit of Mount Whitney (14,494.7 feet) from the Owens Valley side. It connects with the main park and Kern watershed trail system at Crabtree Meadows on the west side of the crest. Here it is possible to go over the "top of the United States" and down the other side. Mount Whitney may therefore be reached from Lone Pine via Cottonwood Lakes and Army Pass, or direct via Lone Pine Creek from the east. It may be reached from the west by starting at Giant Forest, or Mineral King, or by way of Camp Nelson from the south. This latter trail is used particularly in the early spring and summer.
MOUNT WHITNEY, THE HIGHEST POINT IN CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES
SPECIAL ATTRACTIONS
The Sequoia National Park contains many scenic features in addition to the Big Trees. The forests of sugar pine, yellow pine,
Middle Fork and Hospital Rock.—The motorist first enters the park via Ash Mountain headquarters, and the road leads up the gorge of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River.
Hospital Rock, tourist center and public campground, is 5 miles beyond Ash Mountain on the road to Giant Forest, at 2,700 feet elevation, and is an all-year-round center of park activities. The Buckeye store sells general supplies, photographs, films, curios, etc., and furnishes light meals and overnight accommodations.
At or near Hospital Rock are historical and scenic attractions of great interest. There are Indian pictographs, and a mammoth boulder marks the old headquarters of the Yokut Indians. Moro Rock towers 4,000 feet above. The Kaweah River gorge is full of pools, cataracts, and waterfalls. The fishing is excellent. Short-trail trips lead to the Giants Rock Pile, the Big Pool, Buckeye Flat, Red Rock Gorge, and other interesting walks. Deer are numerous and very tame in this vicinity.
A narrow 2-mile road above Hospital Rock leads to Moro Creek, where there is a public campground and point of departure for high mountain trail trips. Magnificent views of the Great Western Divide, with its 12,000- and 13,000-foot peaks, may be had from this road.
Buckeye Flat is a newly developed area on this road, half a mile above Hospital Rock. This is a delightful public campground, beside the rushing Middle Fork, with the usual accommodations. Though particularly beautiful in the spring, it is attractive throughout the year.
Paradise-Atwell Trail connects Atwell Mill Station on the East Fork with Hospital Rock on the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River. It joins the Atwell-Hockett Trail, permitting direct access to the Hockett Meadow country from the Middle Fork district.
VIEW OF MORO ROCK FROM ROAD TO OLD COLONY MILL
Continuing up the Middle Fork, under the shadow of the Great Western Divide, is Redwood Meadow with its interesting grove of Big Trees. To its left, at Bearpaw Meadow, a hikers' camp is maintained during the summer season. The camp is within easy walking distance of Giant Forest and is a convenient base for trips to Tamarack Lake, Hamilton Lake, or Kaweah Gap.
Giant Forest and surroundings.—On a plateau ranging in elevation from 5,500 to 8,000 feet and running back to mountains 11,000 feet high. In heart of park, including major woodland attractions, the Tokopah Valley, and several lakes.
East Fork or Atwell Mill region.—The Mineral King Road leads through this region to the resort of that name just outside the park at 7,800 feet elevation. At Atwell Mill are to be found the finest stands of young Sequoia in the park.
The Atwell-Hockett Trail.—This trail is built on the highest standards. It permits easy travel, whether on foot or horse, and provides a direct route from Atwell Mill into the Hockett Meadow country, famous for its miles of plateau and meadows. Beyond Hockett Meadow is the Quinn Ranger Station, also the fine Garfield Grove of Big Trees.
South Fork or Hockett Meadow region.—From Clough Cave Ranger Station, at 3,000 feet, through the Garfield Grove to the fine camping and fishing country at Hockett Meadows, 8,500 feet. Accessible by trail only.
Kern Canyon district.—This area of more than 300 square miles embraces the upper Kern River, its tributaries, and the Kern Canyon. It is a wild, immense country of forest, granite, lakes, and streams, varying in elevation from 14,494.7 at the summit of Mount Whitney to 6,400 feet at the Kern Canyon Ranger Station at the lower end of the canyon. Excellent camping and fishing country. Accessible only by trail.
OUTSTANDING VIEWS
Two miles by road or trail from Giant Forest is Moro Rock, one of the great monoliths of the Sierra Nevada, others being El Capitan and Half Dome in the Yosemite, and Tehipite Dome in the Kings River Canyon.
Moro Rock is 6,719 feet above sea level and over 6,000 feet above the San Joaquin Valley. From the summit, which is easily reached by a rock and concrete stairway, to the silver streak of the Kaweah River at its base, is an almost sheer drop of 4,119 feet. The panorama of the Sierra Nevada, Alta Peak, the San Joaquin Valley, and the distant coast range is equal to that otherwise obtained only by long and expensive pack trips to the high mountains. Climbing Moro Rock is "mountaineering de luxe."
Hanging Rock, Moro Vista, Profile View, Echo Point, and Kaweah Vista are viewpoints on the rocky escarpment of the Giant Forest Plateau near Moro Rock. Each offers some special view or attraction. Hanging Rock is a huge erratic boulder poised for a 3,000-foot drop to the yawning canyon beneath. Echo Point and Profile View disclose unexpected profiles of Moro Rock, and at the former a resonant echo reverberates from the painted cliff across the chasm.
Beetle and Sunset Rocks, a few hundred yards from Giant Forest camps, are bold granite promontories overlooking the valley and the Marble Canyon. They are favorite spots for picnic suppers and sunset views.
Lodgepole Campgrounds and Tokopah Valley are 4½ miles by road from Giant Forest. The former is the auto camp favored by those who want to live in an open pine forest and beside running water. The swimming pool here also attracts campers. Two miles above the campgrounds, by trail along the north bank of the Marble Fork, is Tokopah Valley, of cameolike beauty, hewn by glacial action from the ribs of the earth. It is a miniature Yosemite, a narrow valley with towering cliffs, waterfalls, talus, meadows, and moraine. It affords one of the favorite short hikes in the park.
Colony Mill and Admiration Point, a 9-mile side trip by road from Giant Forest, are often overlooked by visitors. The views from Colony Mill Ranger Station are superb, while the mile side trip by trail down to Admiration Point permits a view of the Marble Falls, a 2,000-foot cascade in seven distinct waterfalls.
ONE OF SEQUOIA'S MANY UPLAND MEADOWS
Marble Fork Bridge, 4½ miles from Giant Forest, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, is favored by those who like to be near a stream and to fish. It may be reached by road or by the Sunset Trail. This is a favorite retreat with hikers as well as fishermen. The setting is beautiful and the views especially fine. A natural swimming pool adds to its attractiveness.
By parking at the Little Baldy Saddle on the Generals Highway a fine view may be had by hiking a mile and a quarter to the top of the dome. The panorama spread out is a reward worth twice the effort expended.
THE GIANT FOREST DISTRICT
The Giant Forest is the name given the largest grove of sequoias, which is more than a grove. It is a Brobdingnagian forest. Here is found the General
In his book, Our National Parks, John Muir says, "* * * I entered the sublime wilderness of the Kaweah Basin. This part of the Sequoia belt seemed to me the finest, and I then named it 'The Giant Forest.' It extends, a magnificent growth of giants grouped in pure temple groves, ranged in colonnades along the sides of meadows or scattered among the other trees, from the granite headlands overlooking the hot foothills and plains of the San Joaquin back to within a few miles of the old glacier fountains at an elevation of 5,000 to 8,400 feet above the sea."
Giant Forest is also the name of the village beneath the sequoias where the Giant Forest Lodge and the housekeeping and auto camps are situated. Its summer population is about 3,000.
THE MEADOWS
The beauty of the Giant Forest region is much enhanced by the many upland meadows, flower-strewn from the first blossoming of the amethystine cyclamen, or shooting stars in May, to the golden autumn glow of the goldenrod in September. The best-known meadows are Round, Circle, Crescent, and Log, all within 2 miles of Giant Forest Camp.
THE SEQUOIAS
The California Big Trees must ever remain the supreme attraction of the park, although for many the mountain scenery and the fishing are added allurements. The Big Tree (Sequoia gigantea) is sometimes confused with the redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), the smaller species of Sequoia found only in the Coast Range of California. While gigantea approaches 40 feet in base diameter, sempervirens rarely exceeds 20 feet. The wood is similar in color and texture, but the foliage is distinct, and the bark of the Big Tree is much thicker and of a rich red color, instead of a dull brown. The most distinctive characteristic is that the Big Tree is reproduced only from the seed while the redwood when cut down sprouts from the stump.
There are many world-famous Big Trees in the Sequoia National Park, of which the General Sherman is the largest and best known. But there are scores or hundreds unnamed and almost equal to the General Sherman in size and majesty.
In addition to those noted for their size, the National Park Service has named and signed many of singular form, burned by fire, struck by lightning, or fallen in strange fashion. The trees which should be seen by all visitors are:
The General Sherman Tree.—The largest, and perhaps the oldest living thing. Discovered by James Wolverton, a hunter and trapper, on August 7, 1879, at which time he named the tree in honor of General Sherman, under whom he had served during the Civil War as a first lieutenant in the Ninth Indiana Cavalry.
The age of the tree is unknown. It is estimated by those who have made a study of the subject as between 3,000 and 4,000 years. During this time it has withstood the ravages of countless fires, and, though greatly damaged, it has continued to flourish, and today produces thousands of cones bearing fertile seed from which many seedlings have been grown.
The results of the fire damage are seen in the great wounds at the base of the tree. Through repeated fires the sap-pumping system has been damaged, and portions of the top have died; only 40 percent of live wood is in contact with the ground. The Sequoia, however, has such recuperative power that in time these fire scars will be completely healed.
The dimensions of this tree are as follows: