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The Last Voyage: To India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'
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The Last Voyage: To India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'

by Brassey Annie

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Transcriber's Note: Many illustration captions are missing from the original. These captions have been added in as they appear in the List of Illustrations, and all captions have been conformed to the List of Illustrations. Some illustrations have been moved so as to avoid breaking up the text; links in the List of Illustrations are to the actual locations of the illustrations.

The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns (e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba; Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been corrected. Where it is not clear whether something is an error, the questionable text is marked with dotted red underlining, and a pop-up Transcriber's Note has been provided.

CONTENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


THE LAST VOYAGE,

TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,

IN THE ‘SUNBEAM.’

BY THE LATE

Lady Brassey.

ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS.

The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in monotone by E. Nister, of Nuremberg.

The wood engravings in the text are executed by Edward Whymper, J.D. Cooper, and G. Pearson.


PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON


[Enlarge]

CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT “SUNBEAM” FROM NOV. 1886 TO DEC. 1887.


‘SUNBEAM,’ R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886


THE LAST VOYAGE

Annie Brassey

1887.

Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,
That brings our friends up from the underworld;
Sad as the last which reddens over one
That sinks with all we love below the verge;
So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!

LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
1889

All rights reserved


In giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and but little explanation.

A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend—then Mrs. Brassey—asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'

The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not be dwelt on here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works, also well received and well known to the public, followed during the next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos and sadness all its own.

I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so soon.

On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes, knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the writer's wishes.

My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John Ambulance Association all over the world. It will be seen that the last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's heart.

I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands, instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed—for that could easily be supplied from other sources—but in the fact of its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller. After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless weakness, too private and sacred for

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publication. They extend up to September 10th, only four days before the end.

No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found in the Appendix.

Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly feeling between herself and her readers all over the world. It has been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy her facilities for going about and seeing everything.

I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in verifying dates and names of places.

M.A. BROOME.

London: March 1888.


CHAPTER   PAGE   Memoir xiii   Introductory Chapter 1 I. Bombay to Jubbulpore 9 II. Hyderabad and Poona 34 III. Bombay 56 IV. Bombay to Goa 73 V. Colombo 97 VI. Rangoon 119 VII. Labuan 155 VIII. Eleopura 175 IX. Celebes 203 X. Western Australia 229 XI. Albany to Adelaide 251 XII. Adelaide
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tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">269 XIII. Victoria 287 XIV. New South Wales 309 XV. New South Wales (continued) 325 XVI. Queensland 339 XVII. The East Coast 367 XVIII. East Coast (continued) 391 XIX. Prince of Wales' Island 409   Appendix 427   Index 479

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

'Sunbeam,' R.Y.S., Christmas Day, 1886 Frontispiece Port Said Coaling-Party To face page 1 Elephanta Caves " 18 Peshawur Coal-Depot " 26 En Route to Hunt Black-Buck with Cheetah " 40 Patiala Elephants: the Drive " 62 Religious Festival, Malabar Point " 70 Benares and the Sacred Ganges " 84 Moulmein, from the River " 132 Singapore, Entrance to Harbour " 140 Sarawak, Borneo: Opposite the Rajah's Fort " 148 Fishing-Stakes, Sarawak River " 162 Entrance to Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai " 184 Fording
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the Stream for Madai " 196 Kina Balu, 13,700 feet " 210 Bad Weather, West Coast of Australia " 226 Tree-Ferns, Australia " 244 North Head, Sydney Harbour " 306 Aborigines in Camp " 370 Ant-Hills, Queensland, Australia " 422

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.

  PAGE Title-page   Eventide xiii Evening Prayer 1 Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules' 2 Tanks at Aden 3 Kurrachee Harbour 5 The Mirs Falconer 5 Bokhara Man 6 Going to Dinner 6 Our Home on Wheels 7 Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay 9 Crossing the Indus 10 Shikarpur Bazaar 11 Sukhur Bridge, Indus 12 Old Sukhur 13 Temple of the Sun, Mooltan 14 Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore 15 Cañon, Murree 16 Afghans at Jamrud 17 Jamrud Fort 18 Camel-guns and Standard 18 Cabul Native, Lahore 19 Lahore 19 Camel Team 20 Amritsar 20
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href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@29778@[email protected]#Patiala" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Patiala Elephants 21 'Cross-country 22 Elephants Drinking 22 Mounting 22 The Kutub Minar 23 Base of Kutub Minar 24 Old Delhi and Weapons 25 Ulwar 26 Palace in the Ulwar Fort 27 Sar-Bahr, Gwalior 28 Group of Natives 29 Water-carrier, Benares 30 Nerbudda River—Marble Rocks 31 Meari, the Last of the Thugs 31 Temple at Ellora 32 The Fort, Poonah 34 Gun Rock 36 One-Tree Hill 37 Mir Alam, Hyderabad 38 Cheetah-cart 40 Death of the Buck 41 Mosque Entrance 44 The Hamyan Jump, Delhi 48 No Coal 51 Interior, Delhi 53 Bengal Lancer—Rawul Pindi 56 The Ghauts, Bombay 58 Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point 60 The Apollo Bunder 65 Bombay Harbour 67 Omnibus-horse Tope 68 Hindoo Girl 69 At the Children's Ball 70 The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa 73
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Jinjeera Fort 75 Off Ratnagiri 77 Vingora Rocks 79 Vingora Lighthouse 81 Portuguese Rowlock 82 Cape Goa Entrance 83 St. Xavier, Goa 87 Inquisition Stake, Goa 89 View in Ceylon 97 Buddhist Priest 99 Talipot Palm 101 Seychelles Palm 103 Governor's Peon, Kandy 104 Cingalese Weapons 105 Point de Galle 106 Trincomalee Harbour 108 Jumping Fish (Periophthalmus Kolreuteri) 110 Sami Rock 114 Coco Island Light 116 Entrance to Caves at Moulmein 119 Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean 120 Great Pagoda Court 122 Entrance to Temple 123 Dagon 125 Rangoon Boat, Stern 126 Ditto Stem 127 Moulmein 129 Elephants at Work 130 Ditto 131 Moulmein River Boat 132 On the Irrawaddy 133 Entrance to Moulmein Caves 135 Ferry at Morcenatin 136
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tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Point Amherst, Water Temple 138 Bound South 139 Traveller's Palm, Singapore 142 Junks, Singapore 144 Navigation Boards, River Kuching 146 Fire-tube 148 Dyak 149 Kuching 152 The Fort 153 Labuan 155 Malay Village, Labuan 158 Brunei Hats 161 Pangeran's Arrival 164 Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu 169 Kudat 171 On the Fore-yard, making the Land 173 In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai 175 Mr. Flint's Bungalow 177 Kapuan Timber-station 179 Dyak Dance 181 Borneo Weapons 184 Sandakan, bearing N. 185 Entering River, Madai 187 Commissariat Department 189 Return of the Head-Hunter 192 Sulus at Silam 198 Returning at Low Water 199 Dutch Fort, Macassar 203 The Shooting Party 207 Under the Sun 209 Our Coachman, Macassar 211 Dutch (Native) Soldiers 212 Macassar Policeman 213 Fishing-boat, Allas Strait 216
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href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@29778@[email protected]#Wind-bob" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Our Wind-bob 218 More Bad Weather 220 Topmast Stunsails 223 Effect of a Squall 225 Fauna, W. Australia 229 Kingia 233 Black-Boys 236 A Breakdown in the Bush 243 Boomerangs or Kylies 249 Getting under way 251 An Aboriginal 254 The Port Watch 257 Running Down—Easting 260 Cracking on 261 Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg 264 'Protector' Gunboat 267 Sunset 269 Adelaide 272 Stypandra umbellata 275 On the Murray River 278 A Buckboard 280 Ballarat 282 Miners' Camp 284 Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne 287 Victoria Defence Fleet 289 Lancers and Soudan Contingent 292 Selectors 296 Ferns 302 A Forest Bridge 304 Sydney Harbour 307 Banksias, &c., New South Wales 309 Summer Hill Creek 313 Waterfall Gully 318
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class="smcap">Katoomba 320 Cook's Monument, Botany Bay 323 Signal Station, Newcastle 325 Kangaroo-foot (Arrigozanthus) 327 Cattle crossing the Darling River 333 Sheep crossing River 335 Off the Track 337 Rockhampton Lilies 339 Fern Forest 341 German Waggon 346 Turpentine-Tree 348 Crinum asiaticum 349 Ti-Trees 355 Mount Morgan 357 The Ford 363 Native Weapons, Queensland 366 Balloon Canvas 367 Stowing Foretopsail 371 Queensland Natives 373 Cardwell School House 375 Dead Crocodile on Snag 378 The Train in the Bush 382 Zamoa Tree 384 On the Johnstone River 387 Navigators 389 Thursday Island 391 Cooktown 393 Coral on Pearl-oyster 396 Drum from Murray Island 402 Hammer-headed Oyster 404 Claremont Island Lightship 406 The Last Mill in Australia 408 Port Darwin 409 Darnley Island; the Shore 413
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href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@29778@[email protected]#Darnley_2" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Ditto 416 Curios from Murray Island 420 In the Torres Straits 423 Church on Darnley Island 425 St. Louis, Mauritius 429 Off the Cape 432 St. Helena 435 Longwood, St. Helena 437 Ascension. Green Mountain 439 Sierra Leone 441 Barque Hove-to 443 Pico 444 Bearing up for Shelter 445 Tailpiece.  
Track Chart To follow Half-title Map of India To face page 72

Eventide