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THE WORST JOURNEY
IN THE WORLD
ANTARCTIC
1910-1913
BY
APSLEY CHERRY-GARRARD
With Panoramas, Maps, And Illustrations By The Late
Doctor Edward A. Wilson And Other Members Of The Expedition
IN TWO VOLUMES
Volume I
Volume II
CONSTABLE AND COMPANY LIMITED
LONDON BOMBAY SYDNEY
First published 1922
PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN
This volume is a narrative of Scott's Last Expedition from its departure from England in 1910 to its return to New Zealand in 1913.
It does not, however, include the story of subsidiary parties except where their adventures touch the history of the Main Party.
It is hoped later to publish an appendix volume with an account of the two Geological Journeys, and such other information concerning the equipment of, and lessons learned by, this Expedition as may be of use to the future explorer.
Apsley Cherry-Garrard.
CONTENTS
Volume I Page Preface vii Introduction Chapter I From England To South Africa 1 Chapter II Making Our Easting Down 24 Chapter III Southward 48 Chapter IV Land 79 Chapter V The Depôt Journey 104
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Chapter VI The First Winter 178 Chapter VII The Winter Journey 230 Volume II Chapter VIII Spring 301 Chapter IX The Polar Journey. I. The Barrier Stage 317 Chapter X The Polar Journey. II. The Beardmore Glacier 350 Chapter XI The Polar Journey. III. The Plateau To 87° 32´ S 368 Chapter XII The Polar Journey. IV. Returning Parties 380 Chapter XIII Suspense 408 Chapter XIV The Last Winter 436 Chapter XV Another Spring 459 Chapter XVI The Search Journey 472 Chapter XVII The Polar Journey. V. The Pole And After 496
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Chapter XVIII The Polar Journey. VI. Farthest South 527 Chapter XIX Never Again 543 Glossary 579 Index 581
Cape Evans In Winter—E. A. Wilson, del.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Volume I Page McMurdo Sound from Arrival Heights in Autumn. The sun is sinking below the Western Mountains. Frontispiece From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. The Last of the Dogs. Scott's Southern Journey 1903. xxxvi From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. The Rookery of Emperor Penguins under the Cliffs of the Great Ice Barrier: looking east from Cape Crozier. xlii From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Raymond Priestley and Victor Campbell. liv From a photograph by F. Debenham. Sunrise behind South Trinidad Island. July 26, 1910. 12 From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. The Roaring Forties. 32
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align="left"> From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Pack-ice in the Ross Sea. Midnight, January 1911. 62 From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. A Sea Leopard. 66 A Weddell Seal. 66 From photographs by F. Debenham. The Terra Nova in the pack. Men watering Ship. 74 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Taking a Sounding. 84 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Krisravitza. 84 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Mount Erebus showing Steam Cloud, the Ramp, and the Hut at Cape Evans. 96 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Dog-skin outer Mitts showing lampwick Lashings for slinging over the Shoulders. 114 Sledging Spoon, Pannikin and Cup, which pack into the inner Cooker. 114 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Hut Point from the bottom of Observation Hill, showing the Bay in which the Discovery lay, the Discovery Hut, Vince's Cross, the frozen sea and the Western Mountains. 158 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Seals. 162 From the Sea. 162 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Winter Quarters at Cape Evans. Notice the Whale-back clouds on Erebus, the débris cones on the Ramp, and the anemometer pipes which had to be cleared during blizzard by way of the ladder at the end of the Hut. 172
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align="left"> From a photograph by F. Debenham. A Cornice of Snow formed upon a Cliff by wind and drift. 176 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Plate I. A panoramic view over Cape Evans, and McMurdo Sound from the Ramp. 184 From photographs by F. Debenham. The sea's fringe of Ice growing outwards from the Land. 198 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Leading Ponies on the Barrier. November 20, 1911. 206 From a sketch for a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Frozen sea and cliffs of Ice: the snout of the Barne Glacier in North Bay. 212 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. Erebus and Land's End from the Sea-ice. 224 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. Erebus from Great Razorback Island. 224 From a photograph by F. Debenham. Two Emperor Penguins. 234 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. Plate II. A panoramic view of Ross Island from Crater Hill, looking along the Hut Point Peninsula, showing some of the topography of the Winter Journey. 236 From photographs by F. Debenham. Camping after Dark. 246 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Camp work in a Blizzard: passing the cooker into the tent. 256 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.
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colspan="2">A procession of Emperor Penguins. 264 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. The Knoll behind the Cliffs of Cape Crozier. 264 From a photograph by F. Debenham. The Barrier pressure at Cape Crozier, with the Knoll. Part of the bay in which the Emperor Penguins lay their eggs is visible. 266 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. The Emperor Penguins nursing their Chicks on the Sea-ice, with the cliffs of the Barrier behind. 268 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Mount Erebus and detail of Ice-pressure. 280 From photographs by C. S. Wright. Down a Crevasse. 290 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Volume II A Halo round the Moon, showing vertical and horizontal shafts and mock Moons. Frontispiece From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Camp on the Barrier. November 22, 1911. A rough sketch for future use. 322 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Parhelia. For description, see text. November 14, 1911. A rough sketch for future use. 332 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Plate III. The Mountains which lie between the Barrier and the Plateau as seen on December 1, 1911. 338 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. A Pony Camp on the Barrier. 346 The Dog Teams leaving the Beardmore Glacier. Mount Hope and the Gateway before
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them. 346 From photographs by C. S. Wright. Plate IV. Transit sketch for the Lower Glacier Depôt. December 11, 1911. Showing the Pillar Rock, mainland mountains, the Gateway or Gap, and the beginning of the main Beardmore Glacier outlet on to the Barrier. 352 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Plate V. Mount F. L. Smith and the land to the North-West. December 12, 1911. 354 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Plate VI. Mount Elizabeth, Mount Anne and Socks Glacier. December 13, 1911. 356 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Mount Patrick. December 16, 1911. 358 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Plate VII. From Mount Deakin to Mount Kinsey, showing the outlet of the Keltie Glacier, and Mount Usher in the distance. December 19, 1911. 362 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Our night Camp at the foot of the Buckley Island ice-falls. December 20, 1911. Buckley Island in the background. Note ablation pits in the snow. 364 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. The Adams Mountains. 382 The First Return Party on the Beardmore Glacier. 382 From photographs by C. S. Wright. Camp below the Cloudmaker. Note pressure ridges in the middle distance. 390 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. Plate VIII. From Mount Kyffin to Mount Patrick. December 14, 1911. 392 From sketches by Dr. Edward A.
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Wilson. View from Arrival Heights northwards to Cape Evans and the Dellbridge Islands. 428 Cape Royds from Cape Barne, with the frozen McMurdo Sound. 428 From photographs by F. Debenham. Cape Evans in Winter. This view is drawn when looking northwards from under the Ramp. 440 From a water-colour drawing by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. North Bay and the snout of the Barne Glacier from Cape Evans. 448 From a photograph by F. Debenham. The Mule Party leaves Cape Evans. October 29, 1912. 472 From a photograph by F. Debenham. The Dog Party leaves Hut Point. November 1, 1912. 478 From a photograph by F. Debenham. "Atch": E. L. Atkinson, commanding the Main Landing Party after the death of Scott. 492 "Titus" Oates. 492 From photographs by C. S. Wright. The Tent left by Amundsen at the South Pole (Polheim). 506 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Buckley Island, where the fossils were found. 518 From a photograph by C. S. Wright. Plate IX. Buckley Island, sketched during the evening of December 21, 1911. 522 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Mount Kyffin, sketched on December 13, 1911. 524 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Where Evans died, showing the Pillar Rock near which the Lower Glacier Depôt was made.
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Sketched on December 11, 1911. 526 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Sledging in a high wind: the floor-cloth of the tent is the sail. 530 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. Plate X. Mount Longstaff, sketched on December 1, 1911. See also Plate III., p. 338 532 From sketches by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. A Blizzard Camp: the half-buried sledge is in the foreground. 536 From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.
MAPS
Volume I From New Zealand to the South Pole. lxiv Hut Point. From a sketch by Dr. Edward A. Wilson. 128 Cape Evans and McMurdo Sound. 194 The Winter Journey. 294 Volume II The Polar Journey. 542