The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Far East, by Ellen Mary Hayes Peck

Title: Travels in the Far East

Author: Ellen Mary Hayes Peck

Release Date: March 31, 2008 [eBook #24971]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1

***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST***

 

E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Chuck Greif, Greg Bergquist,
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TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST

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Copyright 1909

By Ellen M. H. Peck

THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.

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OZYMANDIAS

I MET a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed:
And on the pedestal these words appear:
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings;
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.

—Percy Bysshe Shelley

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To My Daughter

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FOREWORD

AS the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant recognition of a modest plan.

The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan, Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.

Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted, an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those formed by a longer residence.

In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China, Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an equivalent as regards accurate testimony.

May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."

E.M.H.P.

Milwaukee, December, 1908

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CONTENTS

80 Benares 82 Siliguri 88 Darjeeling 89 Calcutta 93 Burma 97 Prome 109 Rangoon 109 Shwe Dagon 111 Madras 116 Tanjore 118 Trichinopoly 120 Madura 122 Tuticorin 124 Colombo 124 Nuwara Eliya 127 Kandy 129 Anuradhapura 132 Ceylon 141 Batavia, Java 145 Buitenzorg 147 Garoet 150 Djokjakarta 154 Maos 166 Bangkok 174 Singapore 201 Johore 201 Hong-Kong 204 Canton 209 Macao 216 Shanghai 225 Nagasaki 229 Kobe 231 Onomichi 232 Osaka 233 Kyoto 234 Nara 246 Yamada 248

class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Nagoya 250 Yokohama 251 Nikko 252 Tokio 260 A Visit to North China 264 Peking 273 Tientsin 301 Shanhaikwan 302 Mukden 305 Niuchwang 309 Dalny 310 Port Arthur 310 Chemulpo, Seoul 317 Toward Yokohama 326 Homeward Bound 345

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ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo Frontispiece Meshrebeeyeah windows 6 A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo 11 The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women 13 The Mosque of Amr 17 The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaûn 20 Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan 24 Openwork dagobas 26 Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali 28 The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis 33 The Suez Canal near Port Saïd 36 Aden, Arabia 39 Victoria Station at Bombay 41 Queen's Road at Bombay 43 Country scene in Bombay 44 A Tower of Silence 46 Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta 48 Street scene in Jeypore 51

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@24971@[email protected]#A_Hindu_woman_of_Jeypore" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">A Hindu woman of Jeypore 53 Interior view of Amber Palace 55 General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore 57 A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi 59 The Pearl Mosque at Delhi 59 The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi 61 Jumma Musjid, Delhi 61 The tomb of Emperor Humayun 64 Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch 66 Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi 68 Gateway leading to Taj Mahal 70 Taj Mahal 70 Screen in Taj Mahal 70 Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built 70 Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort 73 An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace 73 The Pearl Mosque 74 Akbar's tomb in Sikandra 74 General view of Fatehpur-Sikri 77 A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas) 78 Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj 81 The ghat at Cawnpore 81 The Residency at Lucknow 82 Bathing ghat, Benares 84 Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur 84 The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares 86 A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range 89 A Nepaulese group 91 The Government House in Calcutta 94 An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens 96

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@24971@[email protected]#Fort_Dufferin_and_the_moat_Mandalay" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay 98 Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe 98 The Arakan Pagoda 100 One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas 100 The Queen's Golden Monastery 103 Karen women in Mandalay 103 Burmese country house near Mandalay 104 A national dance at Mandalay 107 On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing 109 General view of Rangoon 111 Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon 112 Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda 112 Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon 112 Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon 115 The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square 115 General view of Madras 117 The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore 119 Fort Rock, Trichinopoly 121 The Golden Lily Tank, Madura 123 Entrance to the Madura Temple 123 Street Scene in Colombo 124 General view of Nuwara Eliya 129 General view of Kandy 131 Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy 132 Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy 132 Ruins of Anuradhapura 135 Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba 136 The Moonstone Steps 139 Mihitale Steps 141 Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon 143 The canal in the old city of Batavia 144

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@24971@[email protected]#Batavia_Java" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Batavia, Java 147 View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue 149 A village scene in Garoet, Java 151 The crater of Papandajang 153 The ruined temple of Prambanam 155 Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam 155 The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple 155 The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java 157 The old temple at Mendoet 159 Boro Boedor, in Java 162 Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java 162 Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery 162 A public square in Djokjakarta, Java 165 Designing sarongs in Batavia 167 Landscape near Batavia 169 Javanese vegetable sellers 170 A Javanese dignitary and his attendants 172 The King of Siam 175 In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok 180 Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple 182 The Klong Canal at Bangkok 185 The famous Elephants' Kraal 189 Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In 190 A Siamese girl 193 A royal barge at Bangkok 194 The collier quay at Singapore 201 The Sultan's Palace at Johore 202 A general view of Hong-Kong 205 The public gardens in Hong-Kong 205 A typical street in a Chinese city 207 A five-story pagoda 211

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@24971@[email protected]#Temple_of_the_Five_Genii_at_Canton" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Temple of the Five Genii at Canton 212 The San Paulo Façade 215 The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande 216 The bund at Shanghai 224 Mogi Road at Nagasaki 228 The main street in Kobe 231 The fort and castle at Osaka 232 The rapids near Kyoto 235 Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto 235 The Golden Pavilion 237 The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa 238 Kasuga Temple 243 The Temple of Ise (Yamada) 249 Nagoya Castle 250 The way to the Temple, Ieyasu 254 Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple 254 A five-story pagoda 257 The gate called Yomei-mon 259 The Imperial Palace at Tokio 261 Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio 263 Gate of Chionin in Kyoto 264 Ueno Park pagoda 264 The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River 268 Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang 270 The Hankow bund 272 The Great Wall at Peking 274 Hata-men Gate 277 Peking girls 278 Llama Temple 278 A Peking cart 281 The Confucius Temple 281 Temple of Classics 281 The Inner Temple of Heaven

282 Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking 285 The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple 286 The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City 289 View from the Forbidden City 289 Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace 291 Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace 291 Nankow Pass 292 A tower of the Great Wall 295 Five Arch: First pailow of the Ming Tomb 295 Emperor Yunglo's tomb 297 Emperor Kwangsu of China 298 The Dowager Empress of China 300 Gordon Hall at Tientsin 303 Old gateway of Tientsin 303 The Temple at Mukden 306 Dalny 310 Port Arthur before the siege 313 Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the conflict 315 203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur—The last point to be taken 317 The city wall and gate of Seoul 319 A group of Koreans 320 An old tomb of a high official 323 A white marble pagoda in Seoul 324 Street scene in Seoul 326 Torii Miyajima 328 Stone lanterns, Miyajima 330 Islands of the Inland Sea 332 Mississippi Bay 335 View of Miyanoshita 336 Theatre Street in Yokohama 340 Mountains around Hakona 343 Mount Pali,

Honolulu 344

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TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST

MILWAUKEE, October 27th, 1907: The adieux have been said, the friends have departed, and the train is moving slowly out of the station; a profusion of flowers, tempting new books, and other gifts are visible proofs of the thoughtfulness of friends on the eve of a long journey in untried fields, and it seems as if I had lost my moorings and was drifting out on an unknown way.