V E N I C E
AND   ITS   STORY
BY
T.   O K E Y

ILLUSTRATED   BY

NELLY ERICHSEN
W. K. HINCHLIFF &
O. F. M. WARD



1910
LONDON: J. M. DENT & SONS, LTD.
NEW YORK: E. P. DUTTON & CO.

 

 

PREFACE

THE History of Venice is the history of a State unparalleled in Europe for permanence and stability. For centuries Venice occupied that position of maritime supremacy now held by Great Britain, and time was when an English king was fain to crave the loan of a few warships to vindicate his rights in France. The autonomy of the Venetian Republic so imposed on men’s minds that it was regarded as in the very nature of things, and even so acute an observer as Voltaire wrote in the Dictionnaire Philosophique, less than three decades before her fall: “Venice has preserved her independence during eleven centuries, and I flatter myself will preserve it for ever.”

In the course of our story we have freely drawn from the old chronicles, while not neglecting modern historians, chiefest of whom is the Triestine Hebrew scholar, Samuele Romanin. Indeed, all that has been written on Venetian history during the past forty years does but increase our admiration for the imperturbable industry and sagacious judgment of the author of the Storia Documentata di Venezia, to whom our heaviest debt is due.

The history, criticism and appreciation of Venetian architecture and Venetian painting are indissolubly associated with the genius of Ruskin, and notwithstanding some waywardness of judgment and spoilt-child philosophy, his writings are, and ever will be, the classic works on the subject. Among more recent authorities we are indebted to the publications of Berenson, Bode, Burckhardt, Ludwig, Morelli, and Saccardo.

For purposes of description we have divided the city and outlying islands of the Venetian lagoon into twenty sections, arranged rather with regard to their relative historical and artistic importance than to strict topographical considerations, although these have not been lost sight of. In our quality of cicerone we have drawn from an acquaintance of the city at various times extending over a period of twenty years: more detailed and practical information may be sought in the admirable guide-books of Baedeker, Grant Allen, Gsellfels and Murray.

A pleasant duty is that of expressing our gratitude for personal help and counsel to, among others, Mr Horatio F. Brown, Signor Cantalamessa the courteous Director of the Accademia, Mr Bolton King, Signor Alfredo Melani, and Mr René Spiers.

In order not to burden our pages with many notes we have limited references to such passages as seemed specially to call for them, exigencies of space having straitened a wide subject within close bounds. If, however, the perusal of this slight and imperfect sketch may lead intending travellers to turn to richer springs—and in that hope we have appended a list of the main sources[1] from which we have drawn—our pleasant labours will be amply rewarded. It is with travel as with other modes of observation. The eye will see what the mind takes with it, for as the Spanish proverb quoted by Dr Johnson runs: “He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies must carry the wealth of the Indies with him.”

CONTENTS

PART I.—THE STORY CHAPTER I PAGE

The Foundation at Rialto

1 CHAPTER II

St Mark the Patron of Venice—The Brides of St Mark—Conquest of Dalmatia—Limitation of the Doge’s Power

17 CHAPTER III

Expansion in the East—Reconciliation of Pope Alexander III. and the Emperor Barbarossa—The Wedding of the Adriatic

35 CHAPTER IV

Enrico Dandolo and the Capture of Constantinople

56 CHAPTER V

The Aristocracy—War with the Genoese—Loss of Constantinople

72 CHAPTER VI

The Duel with Genoa—The Closing of the Great Council

85 CHAPTER VII

The Oligarchy—Commercial Supremacy—The Bajamonte Conspiracy—The

Council of the Ten—The Prisons 103 CHAPTER VIII

Conquests on the Mainland—Execution of Marin Faliero—The Fall of Genoa

118 CHAPTER IX

Aggression on the Mainland—Arrest and Execution of Carmagnola—The Two Foscari

135 CHAPTER X

The Turkish Terror—Acquisition of Cyprus—Discovery of the Cape Route to India—The French Invasions—The League of Cambrai—Decline of Venice

152 CHAPTER XI

Loss of Cyprus—Lepanto—Paolo Sarpi—Attack on the Ten—Loss of Crete—Temporary Reconquest of the Morea—Decadence—The End

170 CHAPTER XII
The Fine Arts at Venice

Masons—Painters—Glass-workers—Printers

187   PART II.—THE CITY SECTION I

Arrival—The Piazza

215 SECTION II

The Basilica of St Mark

222 SECTION III

The Ducal Palace

241 SECTION IV

The Accademia

252 SECTION V

The Grand Canal and S. Giorgio Maggiore

263 SECTION VI

S. Zulian—S. Maria Formosa—S. Zanipolo (SS. Giovanni e Paolo)—The Colleoni Statue—The Scuola di S. Marco—S. Maria dei Miracoli

275 SECTION VII

The Frari—The Scuola and Church of S. Rocco

281 SECTION VIII

S. Zaccaria—S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni—S. Francesco della Vigna

286 SECTION IX

The Riva degli Schiavoni—S. Maria della Pietà—Petrarch’s House—S. Giovanni in Bragoro—S. Martino—The Arsenal—The Public Gardens—S. Pietro in Castello

289

colspan="2">SECTION X

S. Salvatore—Corte del Milione—S. Giovanni Grisostomo

292 SECTION XI

S. Moisè—S. Stefano—Site of the Aldine Press—Il Bovolo—S. Vitale—S. Vio—The Salute—The Seminario

295 SECTION XII

SS. Apostoli-Palazzo Falier—I Gesuiti—I Crociferi—S. Caterina—S. Maria dell’Orto—S. Marziale—Palazzo Giovanelli

298 SECTION XIII

The Rialto—S. Giacomo del Rialto—S. Giovanni Elemosinario—S. Cassiano—S. Maria Mater Domini—Museo Civico

301 SECTION XIV

S. Sebastiano—S. Maria del Carmine—S. Pantaleone—The Cobblers’ Guildhall—S. Polo—S. Apollinare

305 SECTION XV

Giudecca—The Redentore—S. Trovaso

309 SECTION XVI

Palazzo Labia—S. Giobbe—The Ghetti—Gli Scalzi

310 SECTION XVII

Titian’s House—S. Michele in Isola—Murano

314 SECTION XVIII

Torcello—S. Francesco del Deserto

318 SECTION XIX

S. Nicolo del Lido

320 SECTION XX

Chioggia

322 APPENDIX I

List of Doges

325 APPENDIX II

Bibliography

326 INDEX 328

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

LIST OF COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS

Doge Leonardo Loredan. In the National Gallery. By Giovanni Bellini

Frontispiece

The Customs House

facing page facing page   6

Basin of S. Marco

“      “        10

S. Marco from Piazzetta Dei Leoni

“      “        23

A Girl of Castello

“      “        25

S. Marco—Façade

“      “       26

S. Marco—Shrine of the Holy Cross

“      “        37

S. Marco—interior—Chapel of S. Clemente

“      “        45

The Piazzetta and Column of St Mark

“      “        50

S. Marco—Choir

“      “        61

Sunset on the Zattere

“      “        71

Isle of S. Francesco del Deserto

“      “        74

S. Marco from Colonnade of Palazzo Ducale

“      “        82

Doge’s Palace from Isola S. Giorgio

“      “        90

On the Grand Canal

“      “        96

Boats at Anchor

“      “      103

The Clock Tower and Entrance to Merceria

“      “      108

S. Giorgio and the Salute

“      “      116

Sunset—Modern Venice

“      “      132

Rio and Ponte di Santa Maria Maggiore

“      “      138

A Fruit Stall

“      “      149

The Fish-Market

“      “      158

Curiosity-Shop near Piazza

“      “      165

A Wine-Shop

“      “      172

Ponte di Rialto

“      “      181

Ponte di Rialto from the Market

“      “      190

In the Procuratie Nuove

“      “      195

On the Steps of the “Redentore”

“      “      204

class="smcap">A Venetian Woman “      “      213

A Gondolier

“      “      220

I Tre Ponti

“      “      229

Ponte dei Sospiri

“      “      244

Grand Canal—Palazzi Rezzonico and Foscari

“      “      266

Scuola di S. Marco and Statue of Colleoni

“      “      280

Scuola di S. Rocca

“      “      285

S. Fosca and Palazzo Giovanelli

“      “      293

Rio S. Cassiano

“      “      300

Timber Boats

“      “      309

Cannareggio

“      “      312

Venice from the Lido

“      “      320 REPRODUCTIONS OF PICTURES
From Photographs by Alinari

Portrait of Sultan Mahomet II. In the Palazzo Layard. By Gentile Bellini

facing page    196

Madonna Enthroned and Four Saints. In S. Zaccaria. By Giovanni Bellini

“      “      198

St George and the Dragon. In S. Giorgio Maggiore. By Carpaccio

“      “      198

The Baptist and Four Saints. In the Madonna dell’Orto. By Cima

“      “      200

S. Cristina. In S. Maria Mater Domini. By Catena

“      “      202

The Dead Christ. In the Accademia. By Titian

“      “      204

Presentation of St Mark’s Ring to the Doge. In the Accademia. By Bordone

“      “      208

The Marriage of St. Catherine. In St. Caterina. By Veronese

“      “      210

The Marriage of St. Catherine. In the Ducal Palace. By Tintoretto

“      “      246

The Rich Man’s Feast. In the Accademia. By Bonifazio

“      “      256

Gipsy and Soldier. In the Palazzo Giovannelli. By Giorgione

“      “      300   ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT PAGE

Headpiece to Part I. Chapter I.

1

On the Lagoons

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@41209@[email protected]#page_003" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">3

S. Fosca and the Duomo, Torcello

4

Ponte S. Giustina

5

(a) Early Ducal Cap from an Old Mosaic in St Mark; (b) Early Ducal Cap of Doge Moro, from the Portrait in S. Giobbe

8

Cloisters of S. Gregorio

14

Fishing Boats

15

Cloister of S. Francesca della Vigna

18

S. Pietro in Castello from S. Elena

23

Vine Pergola on the Giudecca

31

The Squero, S. Trovaso

40

S. Marco and the Doge’s Palace, with the Loggetta in the Foreground

48

Columns of SS. Mark and Theodore

51

S. Marco—Interior, with Pulpit

58

S. Marco—Façade and Campanile

86

Doge’s Palace—The Judgment of Solomon Corner

94

Remains of Marco Polo’s House

99

Doge’s Palace—Sala del Maggior Consiglio

100

Ponte di Paglia

112

The Palazzi Giustiniani and Foscari

126

Cloister of S. Gregorio

142

Statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni

145

Bust of Francesco Foscari

150

Palazzo Dario

160

The Piazzetta

217

S. Marco—Main Portal

224

S. Marco—Detail of Archivolt

225

S. Marco—Detail of Main Door

226

Byzantine Relief—North Side, S. Marco

228

class="hang">Byzantine Relief from South Side, S. Marco 229

Capitals, Atrium, S. Marco

230

S. Giorgio Maggiore

236

Doge’s Palace—The Cortile

248

Grand Canal, with the Riva del Carbon and Rialto Bridge

267

Ca’ d’Oro

268

Palazzo Vendramin

271

Traghetto and Campo S. Samuele

272

Statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni

280

Headpiece to Section IX.

289

Venice from the Public Gardens

290

Well-Head, Campo S. Giovanni Grisostomo

294

The Rialto Bridge

294

Palazzo Contarini, with Spiral Staircase and Byzantine Well-Head

296

S. Maria della Salute

296

Edict Stone, Rialto

301

Byzantine Crosses—Campo S. Maria Mater Domini

302

Doorway with Coloured Relief of SS. Mark and Anianus; Cobblers’ Guild House, Campo S. Tomà

307

Fishing Boats on the Giudecca

311

Headpiece to Section XVII.

314

Murano

315

Venice from the South

322   MAPS

Sketch Map of Italy and the Eastern Mediterranean

facing page    1

Venice in the Sixteenth Century

“      “      215

SKETCH MAP of ITALY & the EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN

PART I.—THE STORY

CHAPTER I

The Foundation at Rialto