The Project Gutenberg eBook, Twixt France and Spain, by E. Ernest Bilbrough

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Title: Twixt France and Spain

Author: E. Ernest Bilbrough

Release Date: December 8, 2003 [eBook #10403]

Language: English

***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN***

E-text prepared by Carlo Traverso, Lois Gaudard, and Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders. This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.

'TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN;

Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees

BY

E. ERNEST BILBROUGH.

[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES
(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN")
With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads.]

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAU.

Trains and steamers—Bordeaux and its hotels—Lamothe —Morcenx—Dax—Puyoo—Orthez—First impressions of Pau—The hotels and pensions—Amusements—Pension Colbert—Making up parties for the Pyrenees—The Place Royale and the view—The castle of Pau and its approaches—Origin of name—Historical notes—The towers—Visiting hours—The tapestries—The wonderful bedstead—The delusive tortoiseshell cradle—The "Tour de la Monnaie"—The park—The Billères plains—Tennis and golf—The Route de Billères and the Billères woods—French sportsmen—Hunting—Racing—Lescar and its old cathedral—Fontaine de Marnières—The bands—The Parc Beaumont —Ballooning—The Casino—Polo—The cemetery—The churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques—The "old world and the new"—Rides and drives—to Bétharram—The start—Peasants and their ways—Vines trained by the roadside—Sour grapes—The "March of the Men of Garlic" —Coarraze—Henry IV.'s Castle—Bétharram—The ivied bridge—The inn—The "Via Crucis"—Assat and Gélos—The Coteaux—Perpignaa —Sketching with a donkey-cart—Over the Coteaux to Gan—The drive to Piétat—Picnicking and rejected attentions—The church—Feather moss—Bizanos—Carnival time—"Poor Pillicoddy" —"Idyllic Colbert."

CHAPTER II.

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE.

Backward spring—Hôtel Beau Séjour—Effect of the war of '70 on the English colony—The "Coustous"—The Church of St. Vincent—Géruzet's marble works—Donkeys—Up the Monné—Bains de Santé—Bains de Grand Pré—Salut Avenue and baths—"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"—Luncheon—Daffodils—The summit and the view—The "Castel-Mouly"—The Tapére—Mde. Cottin—Mont Bédat—Gentians—The Croix de Manse—"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"—Market-day—The old iron and shoe dealers—Sunday—A cat fight—The English Church—To the Col d'Aspin—"The Abbé's Song"—Baudéan—Campan, its people and church—Wayside chapels—Ste. Marie—The route to Gripp, &c.—Payole—The pine forest—The Col d'Aspin—The view from the Monné Rouge—"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"—The Menu at Payole—Hurrah for the milk!—Departures—Divine music—Asté—Gabrielle d'Estrelle—The ivied ruins—The church— Pitton de Tournefort—Gerde—The pigeon traps—The cattle market —The Jacobin tower—Theatre—Grand Etablissement des Thermes —Hospice Civil—Eglise des Carmes—Mount Olivet—Madame Cheval, her cakes and tea—Bigorre in tears

CHAPTER III.

LOURDES.

The journey to Tarbes—The Buffet and the Nigger—Lourdes station in the wet—Importunate "Cochers"—Hôtel des Pyrénées—"Red tape" and Porters—Lourdes in sunshine—Sightseeing—The "Rue de la Grotte"— "The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"—Candle-sellers—The Grotto—Abject reverence—The Church—Saint Bernard—Interior of church—The panorama—Admirable effect—Rue du Fort—The castle—The view from the Tower—Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels

CHAPTER IV.

ARGELÈS.

Road v. rail—Scenes, sublime and ridiculous—Hôtel d'Angleterre—Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"—A forbidden path—The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous—Argelès church—Route Thermale—Ges—The tree in the path—"A regular fix"—Serres—"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" —A frothing stream—A fine view—Pigs in clover—Salluz —Ourous—Contented villagers—The high road—The bridge on the Pierrefitte road—Advice to sketchers—"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"—The "witch of the hills"—Large green lizards—"Jeannette's Lamb"—Round the Argelès valley—Château de Beaucens—Villelongue— Soulom—The old church—Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—St. Savin—The verger and the ancient church—Cagots—"The Organ's Tale"—St. Savin's tomb—The Château de Miramont—Jugged Izard—Market-day—Sour bread and the remedy—Arrival of the first parcel.

CHAPTER V.

CAUTERETS.

Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—The Gorge—Its majestic beauty—The resemblance to the Llanberis Pass—Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical—Zinc mines—Le Pont de Médiabat—Entering the town—The Rue Richelieu and Hôtel du Parc—Winter's seal upon them still—Thermes des Oeufs—Thermes de César—The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs—A good dinner and the menu—The start for the Col de Riou—The Grange de la Reine Hortense—The pines—Miss Blunt's "Exhortation to the First Snow"—The dogs and their gambols—Defeated, but not discouraged—To the Cérizey Cascade—The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pré—Cascade de Lutour—The Marcadau Gorge—Scenery—Pic de Gaube—At the Cérizey Cascade—The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de Gaube—Pont de Benqués—Lutour valley—Various excursions up same—The "Parc"—Allées de Cambasque—The Peguère—The "Pagoda" villa— Promenade du Mamelon Vert—The road's up again—Blows and blasts—The bishop's arrival—Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions—The pilgrims at large—They start on an excursion—The market and Hôtel de Ville—The grocer's opinion—Pyrenean dogs and their treatment—The dog-fancier—Smiles and temper—Bargaining displaced—No dog after all!

CHAPTER VI.

LUZ AND BARÈGES.

Rain at starting—A blighted view, yet lovely still—Pont d'Enfer—Nature's voice—Sère and Esquiez—Luz—Its situation and status—An old house—The ancient church of the Templars—La Chapelle de St. Roch—Pyrenean museum—Hôtel de l'Univers—Château de Ste. Marie—"The Jackdaw's Causerie"—A new "diet of worms"—The new bathing establishment—To Barèges—Pic d'Ayré—Esterre—Viella —Betpouey—Mill conduits—Cercle des Etrangers—Opinion of the town—Grand Etablissement—Promenade Horizontale—Hospice de Ste. Eugénie—"The Jay of Barèges"—Wood anemones—Hepaticas—Valley of Lienz—Pic de Lienz—Pic d'Ayré's summit—Pic de Néouville—Mountain rhododendrons—Anemone vernalis

CHAPTER VII.

ST. SAUVEUR.

Pont de