interest manifested in our welfare here, on the part of the managers, that we expected; and we felt that if we had to meet the same difficulties farther on, it would be a matter of regret to us that we did not hire a conveyance and make an independent tour. Fortunately, we found a decided difference in the management at the camps.

Two young women, who had been residing in the park camps for the summer, had arranged with the driver of our car to sit on the front seat with him on the trip from Cody to Yellowstone Camp. However, they were not on hand in the morning when we were ready to start, and a person who had later secured the front seat kindly let me have it. I was grateful for the protection the wind-shield gave me, and of being able to keep my feet warm near the engine. When the young women found that they had been left, they hired an automobile and overtook us. They paid a woman chauffeur, clad in men's clothing, ten dollars for this trip; and just as we were halting at the dam they drove up, to the delight of the young man who was driving our car.

THE HOLY CITY © Haynes, St. Paul

Nothing was said to me about giving them the front seat, but they made some remarks in the presence of others that showed plainly what was on their minds. I kept my place until we reached Pahaska Lodge. In the meantime "Heine," the driver, as he was called, seemed more or less excited, and occasionally called to them in the rear seat. He was running at such speed it was difficult for some of the passengers to keep their places, especially where there were sharp curves in the road. He was, no doubt, a skilful driver. He seemed to know that he was exceeding the speed limit, and shouted out to one of the young women, "Ruth, are you all there?" A few minutes after this he ran against the post of a bridge and came near having a wreck, but no one said anything to him, nor made a protest against his carelessness and levity when he should have been attending to business.

"Heine" spent the time at Pahaska Lodge in the company of the two girls; and when the time came to go, he did not wait, as others did, to load up in front of the building, but took them out to the rear where the car was standing and put them in the front seat. There was a protest on the part of all the other passengers, who insisted that he should give me the seat I had occupied in the morning, but he was unyielding; and after a half hour's delay and controversy they saw the utter futility of trying to convince him of his act of injustice, and proceeded on the journey. However, it served the purpose of quieting him down and causing him to be more careful in the dangerous places of the road.

PAHASKA TEPEE LODGE © Haynes, St. Paul

The woman in charge at the Pahaska Lodge, who had failed to serve us with eggs, after one of the waitresses had promised them to me, was chafing under an impeachment of her lack of good will and hospitality toward some of her patrons; and came boldly out to the car, and in the presence of every one took sides with the driver, assuring him that she would stand for the delay. This greatly strengthened him in the stand he had taken.

It was not very pleasant to ride behind a driver with so much responsibility, who was carrying on a flirtation. I once saw a brakeman flirting with a young woman when he should have been attending to business. Suddenly, he lost his footing, fell between the cars and was crushed to death. Human nature has been so weakened through the fall that there is not much dependence to be put in one where a play by the opposite sex is being made on the heartstrings. Samson was shorn of his strength by the fair-faced Delilah, and made to grind without eyes in the mills of the Philistines, after he had rent a lion, carried off the gates of Gaza, and defied all the enemies of Israel.

There is too much good-natured toleration of such things, where human lives are involved. Most people choose the path of least resistance, when it does not seriously interfere with their rights or comfort, but not so with our fellow passengers, four of whom were devout members of the Friends' Church. There was a principle involved, and they did not hesitate to show on which side they were. We enjoyed the company of these "Friends" very much. The two gentlemen and their wives were our companions on the trip from the morning we left Cody till the day we parted at the Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin.

CHITTENDEN BRIDGE © Haynes, St. Paul

CHAPTER II

GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE

After crossing the Yellowstone boundary, about two miles west of Pahaska Tepee Lodge, I began to feel an atmosphere of freedom that I had not hitherto enjoyed on the trip. I felt that the Yellowstone National Park, with all of its wonders and many interests, belonged to me as much as to any other person on the earth; and from that moment it seemed that I was walking with God to the very gates of heaven and to the brink of hell. The freedom of animal life in the Park, brought to my mind vivid pictures of the Millennium, when, as Isaiah says, nothing shall hurt or destroy in all God's holy mountain. It should be a matter of great interest and satisfaction to Americans that our government has the custody of the Yellowstone—that man with selfish interests is prohibited from laying claim to anything within its boundaries, and is compelled to refrain from marring or defacing the formations around the geysers and other places, and from destroying animal life.

It is to be deplored that so few know how rich they are in the gifts that God and nature have bestowed upon us as a people, in this vast region of more than 3,000 square miles of so many miracles and wonders.

About eight miles from the border, we came to Sylvan Pass; then followed Snow Fall, Lake Eleanor, Sylvan Lodge, Sylvan Lake, and Wedded Trees, at the left. About eleven miles from Sylvan Pass, we came to Turbid Lake, Osprey Nest in a tree at the right, Fishing Bridge, Yellowstone River, and turned to the right to Grand Canyon.

Our first stop after leaving Pahaska Lodge was at Mud Volcano and Green Gable Spring, at the left. This was the first place where we had found any disturbance on the surface caused by the heated regions below. The angry crater of the volcano resembled, in some respects, the Mammoth Paint Pots in the Lower Geyser Basin, but unlike the latter, there was nothing beautiful about it,—it was simply a great mass of boiling mud, manifesting such intense heat as to spout up several feet, threatening to bespatter those who came too near. It was enclosed by a railing, around which was a board walk. Below the mud geyser was a boiling spring where the water, clear as crystal, poured out of the ground and was carried away.