colspan="2">Squarish cloths

Measurements in inches   Specimen 4-3633b 15.5 by 14   16-1260 19 by 14   4-3890a 23.5 by 26   4-3883a 26.5 by 27   4-4056 27 by 26   16-1253 28.5 by 24   4-4027 29 by 28   4-4022a 40 by 35 (2 breadths)   4-3883b 43.5 by 38.5 (2 breadths)   16-1250 52 by 61 (2 breadths)   4-3973d 59.5 by 66 (2 breadths) Rectangular cloths   Specimen 4-3889c 9.5 by 5   4-4029 10.5 by 4   4-3962 11.5 by 9   4-3882f 13 by 7   4-3710m 18 by 11.5   4-3883d 53.5 by 21   4-4059a 62 by 22.5

From the twenty Chincha plain-weave cloths with intact lengths (fig. 4) it is possible to know (1) that the cloths were woven by methods standard among the ancient Peruvians; (2) that each breadth represents a separate warping operation which established its ultimate length; (3) that each breadth was made singly on the loom. The evidence for such procedures and the identifying features of the end selvages on Peruvian cloths are to be recognized in the continuous thread which forms the warp skein—in contradistinction to cut ends of warps—and in the presence of two or more heavy wefts, the first ones put across the web. The cords binding the end loops of the warp skein to the loom bars hold the first of these loomstring wefts, as they are called, to the bars. The two or more succeeding wefts, which are interlaced with the warps, establish the width of the piece and give it a certain firmness. On the ends of some cloths the strand of cord for loomstrings was long enough to carry across the web only twice. In the majority of our plain-weave cloths it was carried across three times; in over a fifth of the total number of intact ends in the 16- lot the loomstring carried across four times. The frequencies of two, three, and four loomstrings at the ends of webs in this group are approximately as 6:32:16. A number of these occurrences are on cloths in which the heavy cord is not long enough to make a complete crossing; the remainder of the breadth is completed with weft of the size used for the regular weaving.

In the Chincha 4- lot, loomstrings of from 2- to 12-ply formed the weft for from two to six courses of weaving. In seven of the twenty-four specimens showing finished ends, the loomstring stopped partway across its course in the web and was there joined to the regular weft yarn. In two the joining was effected by finger knots, in the other by splicing (?). The two specimens (4-3889c and 4-4029) having strong 12-ply loomstrings were small but complete cloths which had been doubled and stitched along the sides to form bags. The loomstrings thus served to reinforce the open mouth of the bag.

In eleven specimens the loomstrings had an initial S and final Z twist; twelve show the opposite combination. In one specimen (4-4056) the separate plies have an S twist, but the final yarn is untwisted.

Complete lengths of Chincha plain-weave cloths in order from shortest to longest:

Spec. no.	Inches
4-3889c	9.5
4-4029	10.5
4-3962	11.5
4-3882f	13
4-3633b	15.5
4-3710m	18
16-1260	19
4-3890a	23.5
4-3882a	26.5
4-4056	27
16-1253	28.5
4-4027	29
4-4022a	40 (× 2)
4-3883b	43.5 (× 2)
16-1250	52 (× 2)
16-1290	53
4-3883d	53.5
4-3973d	59.5 (× 2)
4-4059a	62
16-1292	62

Ninety-odd of the measured cloths are incomplete as to length. These preserved lengths fall within arbitrary groupings as follows:

From 5 inches to 20 inches in length	29 pieces
From 21 inches to 30 inches in length	33 pieces
From 31 inches to 40 inches in length	17 pieces
From 41 inches to 50 inches in length	7 pieces
From 51 inches to 60 inches in length	4 pieces
From 61 inches to 70 inches in length	2 pieces

Widths

There are three times as many weavings with complete widths as with complete lengths; 60 as compared to 20. Clues to the wrappings or blankets of which these breadths were sections are frequently furnished by traces of stitchery and broken threads on the side selvages. As shown by table 2 and figure 3, the five narrowest complete breadths (Group 1) are within a range of 4 to 12 inches. Narrow widths can be woven most rapidly on the backstrap loom. Complete breadths in Group 2 (18 specimens) fall within the range of 14 to 20 inches. These widths, also, can be woven without much effort. Seaming together narrow breadths appears to have been preferred to weaving wider ones equal to the two or three which compose some of the rectangular specimens.

Table 2

Frequencies of Complete Width Measurements

		Width in inches	Number of occurrences	Total occurrences
Group 1