compartment for one of the conductors or guards, then a saloon, with a sofa on each side, and the remainder, two seats on one side and one on the other, which, with the passage, require a wider gauge, something like the Great Western.

The second class is much the same, with rather less upholstering; and the third without cushions.

The rail appeared strong and very substantially laid, and is carried in a straight level line for miles together through forests of great extent. At each station a person goes round striking the wheels and axles to see that all is sound. The engines are supplied with wood fuel, and seemed powerful, dragging us along in some parts with great rapidity.

The forest trees, consisting chiefly of pine, birch, and mountain ash, with a few oaks and beech, did not appear so large as I expected, nor was our monotonous course enlivened by the sight of an occasional bear or eagle, being, we suppose, gone from home. Along some parts of the line we observed the corduroy road (trees laid close together), and gates formed of long poles counterpoised by a thicker part at the other end.

There are thirty-three stations built upon one plan, spacious and convenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two or three of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, which were by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a very general beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juice instead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; though accompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptable than many other dishes.

Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess, and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes.

If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a double seat.

I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. This occurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passed a church at a considerable distance.

We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, having performed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at the various stations about 1½ hours, this journey formerly requiring twelve to fifteen days.

It was raining very hard, but by the kindness of a gentleman we were helped to a cab, and after giving the necessary directions, we proceeded to the hotel which had been recommended to us, but found it full.

With the second hotel on our list we were more successful.

After breakfast, the rain continuing, my secretary,[5] engaged herself writing home, whilst I proceeded to present our letters of introduction.

One of these friends helped us to a guide, and also engaged a carriage to facilitate our future movements.

Moscow has a population of about 350,000, with innumerable churches, towers, gilded spires and domes. The roofs of the houses are constructed of sheet iron, and painted white, red and green, all of them glittering in the sun, and presenting a truly splendid appearance.

It was built about 700 years ago, and remained the metropolis of Russia till the beginning of the last century.

The exterior wall of the city is upwards of twenty English miles in extent and presents a striking contrast to St. Petersburg.

In some streets we come to a large palace and then to a wretched hovel. Another time we see a row of little cottages of one storey standing next to a stately mansion, and in other places little streets as in a country town.

In the centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin, situated on a hill nearly two miles in circumference; it is surrounded by high walls of stone and brick, with several towers and gates, the most important of which is the gate of the Redeemer. Over the arch of which is a picture of the Saviour, with a lamp constantly burning.

The passage through the tower is about twenty paces long and every one, be he what he may, Mahommedan, Heathen or Christian, must take off his hat and keep it off till he has passed through to the other side. It is a truly singular sight to watch the carriages coming along at full speed slackening their pace as they approach the sacred gate, while the lord and lackey cross themselves reverently and drive through hat in hand. The first time, forgetting to uncover, I was reminded by a sentinel at some distance, and also my companion to put down her parasol. The greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter through the gate.

Within the Kremlin are contained all the most interesting and historically important buildings of Moscow, the holiest churches, with the tombs of the ancient Tzars, Patriarchs and Metropolitans, the remains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the late Emperor, the arsenal, the senate house and architectural memorials of every period of Russian history, for every Russian monarch has held it his duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monument.

In the new palace erected by the Emperor Alexander after the great conflagration of 1812, the most remarkable apartment is that of the Emperors containing a bed with a straw mattress, half a dozen leather-covered chairs, and a small looking-glass, making up the whole of the furniture.

The little palace erected by the Emperor Nicholas has some valuable paintings and a good library.

Here is also another bedroom more wonderful than that just described. The former Emperor slept on straw covered with leather, but it was loosely stuffed; the mattress of the Emperor Nicholas, on which he lay is stuffed so that a shutter in its absence would prove no great inconvenience.

It is difficult to say how many churches there are in Moscow, the several accounts differ so widely. Some speak of 1,500, others 500; the former number must include public and private chapels, and those in convents, but the holiest of them all are three in the Kremlin. Though not extensive, they are crowded with pictures and shrines, the heavy pillars that support the fine cupolas are covered with gold from top to bottom, and the walls the same with large fresco paintings, darkened by age.

Here is Mount Sinai, and a golden Moses of pure gold, with a golden table of the law, and also a golden coffer to contain the Host, said to weigh 120,000 ducats. A Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter the Great, the cover so laden with gold and jewels that it requires two men to carry it into the church; it is said to weigh 120 lbs. The emeralds on the cover are an inch long, and the whole binding cost 1,200,000 roubles, or £200,000 sterling.

In the house of the Holy Synod are thirty silver vessels containing the holy oil used in baptising all the children in Russia. It is made of the finest Florence oil, mingled with a number of essences, about three or four gallons serving all Russia for one and a half or two years.

Here one of our fellow travellers, impelled by that curiosity common to the sex, dipped her finger into one of the holy jars and forthwith anointed herself, bidding me to do the same; and, thus tempted, I followed her example and also tried its efficacy upon my other half, without finding, I must confess, any material change. I have since thought that such antics, though not done in derision, might have proved serious and led to our detention and perhaps final removal to a distant part of the empire.

In the church of St. Michael the Archangel are the tombs of the Russian sovereigns, which are raised sepulchres, mostly of brick, in the shape of a coffin and about two feet high.

In addition to the churches and palaces