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قراءة كتاب A Journey in Russia in 1858
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road were exceedingly bad, very deep ruts, reminding me of some of the mud turnpikes in America. Whilst the horse was resting our guide partook of some quas, the common drink of the country, which we found to be a sort of weak muddy beer, rather acid.
A little further on the way we heard a shepherd amusing himself and his flock by playing on the green willow.
We visited the fish market, containing a great variety of fish, many of them all alive in large tanks of water, and others carefully preserved in blocks of ice.
On revisiting the Kremlin for the last time, we were fortunate in witnessing an extraordinary procession, more than 200 priests in their varied gorgeous robes, bearing canopies, holy standards, and other insignia, amidst the jingling of scores of bells, which only ceased after they had all entered the cathedral.
Before quitting this wonderful city I took a parting glance from the terrace on the roof of our hotel, whence I counted more than 250 domes and spires, many of them gilt, and others, with the roofs of many of the houses beautifully coloured, forming a truly splendid panorama.
On our return at 12 o'clock noon, the same hour we left for St. Petersburg; we took two second-class tickets, and found ourselves more comfortable than in the saloon of the first class, arriving very punctually at 8 o'clock the following morning.
The same day we renewed our visit to St. Isaac's Cathedral, which we found surrounded by a numerous concourse of people, with a military guard stationed at the chief entrance, and a splendid carpet covering the steps leading to the cathedral.
We hastened through one of the side doors, and secured a good position on the steps near to the altar, whence we had a fine view of the procession of the numerous priests in most gorgeous dresses, bearing a canopy over the Metropolitan and swinging incense from side to side, amidst the most beautiful chanting, sometimes in deep bass tones, followed by youthful choristers in the most delightful gentle strains, swelling forth into a grand chorus, and filling the centre of this vast cathedral.
When the music had ceased, and the priests had retired behind the altar, we had a most energetic sermon, which not being able to understand, left us time to survey once more the interior of this most magnificent edifice.
After the service was ended one of our friends from the hotel, a very intelligent lady from the Channel Islands, went up to two ladies standing near us, to make enquiry about certain parts of the ceremony, when after some explanation, they kindly invited us to call upon them in the evening, and bring along with us two other of our English travellers.
On showing their card to Miss Benson, she informed us the ladies were persons of high rank, the daughters of a distinguished general, but known to be greatly attached to the English.
Upon our calling in the evening we found the two ladies not returned from Court, but another sister received us most graciously, and after a long conversation, chiefly on the emancipation of the Serfs, which they did not approve of, having about 2,000 of them on their own estates, but at the same time giving the Emperor credit for the best intentions. Before leaving we were asked by the particular desire of the absent ladies to renew our visit the following evening, which we regretted not being able to do, having to make arrangements for our return home.
The manufactures at St. Petersburg are numerous, and some of them very extensive in tapestry, porcelain, glass, carpet, paper and cotton, all under the patronage of the State, but chiefly owned or managed by foreigners.
One of the cotton factories we visited, situated at Octi, about three miles up the river Neva, is a good-sized mill, worked by four engines of 250 and 260 horse power, spinning yarn about forty or fifty hanks, and employing 700 or 800 hands, chiefly serfs, from the neighbouring villages, with managers, mostly English, occupying cottages surrounding the establishment.


