Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for pattern. Cut new one out and baste in and fell around tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets to hold in place. If new buttons are required, sew them on before new lining is placed, so as not to sew through the lining. Repair trousers where needed.

To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from the bottom of cuff, to hold lining in place, then rip sleeve lining around the bottom, unfasten the turn up of sleeve from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when it is worn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an inch, or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still be of sufficient length, (run basting one-quarter inch from bottom), fasten the turn up back to the wigan with basting (this basting is left in); now let sleeve lining come down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off what comes below.

Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches, and fell lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining. Finish both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn sleeves right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. When felling do not take long stitches, short ones look neater and are stronger and work will have a better appearance when finished. Should the sleeve be finished with stitching around the cuff, finish the same when repairing. Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing of sleeves at the bottom.

HOW TO PUT VELVET COLLARS ON COATS.

Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar (the old stitches in velvet do not matter), place coat in a convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and lapels into shape.

Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each side than the pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam over an iron as explained. Stretch the edges a trifle on each side of velvet, being careful not to leave finger or thumb marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk thread should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease through velvet to hold in place.

Run another basting below crease and in the stand of collar, and another row of basting on leaf of collar close to the crease. Run another basting near the outside edge of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each end to allow ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short.

Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the inside of coat collar, from end to end; and baste velvet over edge and all around leaf. Now cut velvet off even along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to coat neck with silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight piece of lining one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in and fold again and fell together; now sew to the coat as before, turning both edges of loop in, and tacking same through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with the nap of the velvet.

TO STEAM COLLAR.

Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over this lay a wet sponge cloth; then hold coat collar very close to steaming cloth (when one is familiar with the work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing steam to come through the velvet. Then remove the collar and shape by hand, as when worn. Brush the nap gently to freshen while steaming, but with a very soft brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before wearing or delivering.

Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, will give to the finished garment a fresh look.

All these are important considerations.

When darning, great care must be taken to have the work finished up neatly, as darning and mending is an art, and like everything else, requires patience and practice.

Basting is only used in the preparation of work, to hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting is left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary work, basting stitches should be cut every few inches and drawn out.

It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knee, but here is an idea that will help materially to keep knees in shape. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to the seams and across bottom and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being careful not to allow stitches to show through on right side.

Buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing off the number required, with pins or thread marks.

Mark length of hole, and stitch on a machine the desired length, then turn at right angles and take two stitches, then turn back and stitch other side. Turn at right angles and take two more stitches, thereby tacking both ends. All buttonholes may be stitched in one garment without removing from the machine.

This method takes the place of serging or overcasting and is much better for thin ravelly goods.

MAKING BUTTONHOLES.

Buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon as cut, with fine thread or silk, the stitches should be light, loose and even, this is done with a slanting stitch.

Making buttonholes: Insert the needle on the edge of the material and when half way through, take the two threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle, drawing the thread from you, making the purl or loop stitch come directly on the edge of the buttonhole. Stitches should lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop stitch to form, always have each stitch of the universal length so the stitches will look straight on each side of the buttonhole, the stitches may be placed closer together at the end as most wear comes there.

DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR.

A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. Commence by darning diagonally through the center, darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until one-half has been finished; then begin at the center and work in the opposite direction. At the corner, the stitches should form the shape of a fan. Another method which is stronger, is done by darning a square in the angle, first with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and finishing each end across the tear.

HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.

A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving one-eighth inch space for working. Felling—when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.

BACK STITCHING.

The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing the needle back into last stitch and so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches follow each other without leaving a space between. Back stitching is used in