alteration.

When a vest is too large around, it may be pinned on the customer, down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and outside.

Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on hanger to retain shape.

When vest is to be made larger, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove stitches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside lining; press open the seams or stitch to one side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.

When trousers are too long, they may be shortened in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.

Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing.

When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let stitches show through on right side. Press bottoms same as explained.

When trousers are to be lengthened, loosen them at the bottom measure with tape line, the desired length, from crotch down, making them one inch shorter in the back or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the desired length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and press as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, all. It will be necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same cloth (or as near as possible), sew on machine and baste edges out even, and place rubber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way by turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms and legs. Sew heel protectors on (they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in, or made of cloth, same material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches long, sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.

When trousers are too large around the waist, mark with chalk (or pin on customer), the amount to be taken in, rip back seam down as far as is required. Remove the two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far enough for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together and sew in the chalk mark (by machine or by hand) to within two inches of the top of waist band; press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide, each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam.

Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side of back seam. Put a good neck on buttons to allow suspender button holes to fit smoothly around button. This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top of button and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted thread or button cord made for that purpose, as explained in (how to make button cord.)

When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and wind cord around under button, and fasten by taking two stitches through the neck, and cut thread off. Now fell lining back in place, leaving an opening at top of, say two inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the usual way.

When trousers are to be made larger around waist, rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back suspender buttons. Rip back seam down the required amount and press out the mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the amount to be made larger, half the amount on each side of seam, baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk mark. Remove basting, and press seam open, fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons on; and fell waist band lining. Finish and press in the usual way.

When trousers are to be made larger at the waist, and there is nothing to let out, remove back suspender buttons as explained, and waist band lining. Cut a piece of cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of the same material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams wider than required. This may be determined by the amount to be made larger, (the larger the piece at the top, the longer the wedge will have to be, as it will not do to have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and stitch with machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist stitching. Sew back suspender buttons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place; press and finish. When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this will make pressing easier; but do not put too much water on seams.

How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. Thread a needle with linen thread double, then rub beeswax up and down the thread; then twist, and when one has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, which is very essential in sewing on buttons; one knows how annoying it is to have buttons coming off; this may be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread.

When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax and rub through cloth to remove excess wax. This will make the silk stronger, and also will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing.

A good method of hanging a skirt. Have customer stand on top of the stairs, the fitter sitting on the second step. This is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly all around, marking the proper length without rising, or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.

Ironing over buttons made easy and safe. Place four ply wadding on press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron from the wrong side until dry. This is equally good in ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing embroidery white wadding should be used.)