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CHAPTER II. The Start—The Nore—Porpoises—A Gale—The Channel—Ostend Canal—River Meuse—Earl of Aberdeen—Holland—The Rhine—The Premier's Son—River Main—Heron Stalking—The Prince of Wales 12 CHAPTER III. Hollenthal Pass—Ladies—Black Forest—Night Music—Beds—Lake Titisee—Pontius Pilate—Storm—Starers—Banket—Four in hand—Source of the Danube 38 CHAPTER IV. River Donau—Singers—Shady nooks—Geisingen—Mill Weirs—Rapids—Morning Crowd—Donkey's Stable—Islands—Monks—Spiders—Concert—Fish—A race 55 CHAPTER V. Sigmaringen—Treacherous trees—Congress of herons—Flying Dutchman—Tub and shovel—Bottle race—Snags—Bridge Perils—Ya Vol—Ferry Rope—Benighted—Ten eggs 75 CHAPTER VI. Day-dream—River Iller—Ulm—A stiff king—Lake Constance—Seeing in the dark—Switzerland—Coloured Canvas—Sign talk—Synagogue—Amelia—Gibberish 96 CHAPTER VII. Fog—Fancy pictures—Boy soldiers—Boat's billet—Eating—Lake Zurich—Crinoline—Hot walk—Staring—Lake Zug—Swiss shots—Fishing Britons—Talk-book 118 CHAPTER VIII. Sailing on Lucerne—Seeburg—River scenes—Night and snow—The Reuss—A dear dinner—Seeing a rope—Passing a fall—Sullen roar—Bremgarten rapids 142 CHAPTER IX. Hunger—Music at the mill—Sentiment and chops—River Limmat—Fixed on a fall—River Aar—Rhine again—Douaniers—Falls of Lauffenburg—The cow cart 159 CHAPTER X. Field of Foam—Precipice—Puzzled—Philosophy—Rheinfelden Rapids—Dazzled—Lower Rapids—Astride—Fate of the Four-oar—Very Salt—Ladies—Whirlpool—Funny English—Insulting a baby—Bride 177 CHAPTER XI. Private concert—Thunderer—La Hardt Forest—Mulhouse Canal—River Ill—Reading Stories—Madame Nico—Night Noises—Pets—Ducking—The Vosges mountains—Admirers—Boat on wheels—New wine 196 CHAPTER XII. Bonfire—My wife—Matthews—Tunnel picture—Imposture—Fancy—Moselle—Cocher—Saturday Review Tracts—Gymnastics—The paddle—A spell—Overhead—Feminine forum—Public breakfast 216 CHAPTER XIII. River Moselle—The Tramp—Halcyon—Painted woman—Beating to quarters—Boat in a hedge—River Meurthe—Moving House—Tears of a mother—Five francs 234 CHAPTER XIV. Ladies in muslin—Chalons Camp—Officers shouting—Volunteers' umbrella—Reims—Leaks—Madame Clicquot—Heavy blow—The Elephant—First Cloud 255 CHAPTER XV. Meaux on the Marne—Hammering—Popish forms—Wise dogs—Blocked in a Tunnel—A dry voyage—Arbour and Garret—Odd fellows—Dream on the Seine—Almost over—No admittance—Charing-cross