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XIV SPECIAL DRESSES Fashions kept up by ceremonies—Survivals in special costume—Flowing garments 135 XV SERVANTS’ DRESS The prototypes of liveries—Reminiscences of George II and George III—Origin of the page-boy’s buttons—The jockey cap—Aprons 139 XVI COCKADES The cockade a degenerated chaperon—The varieties of the cockade—Cockade wearers 152 XVII CHILDREN’S DRESS Survivals in children’s dress—Special school costumes—The blue-coat boy—Public school boys—Adoption of special dress at girls’ schools 162 XVIII WEDDING GARMENTS The veil—Bridesmaids and bribery—Old shoes—Orange blossom 175 XIX MOURNING Colours associated with mourning—Widows’ weeds—Perennial mourning 181 XX COSTUME CONNECTED WITH RELIGION The surplice and “the cloth”—The civil origin of vestments—Fine vestments—Processional vestments, so called—Nuns’ dress—The choker 184 XXI SUNDAY CLOTHES The significance of Sunday clothes—The wearing of hats in church by ladies 205 XXII ACADEMICAL DRESS Gowns and hanging sleeves—The forerunner of the hood—The origin of the doctor’s hat—The evolution of the mortar-board 208 XXIII LEGAL DRESS Vestiges of the coif—Hoods and gowns—Signs of mourning 215 XXIV STATE AND COURT ATTIRE Coronation dress—Parliamentary robes—Mistakes in Court dress—Vestiges of the wig and of the chaperon—Court cards 221 XXV SURVIVALS IN MILITARY UNIFORMS Armour—Prickers for flint locks—Forage cords—Reminiscences of gallantry—Regimental badges—Courtship colours 233 XXVI NAVAL UNIFORM Supposed survivals—Petticoats and wide breeches 251 XXVII THE COSTUME OF PUPPETS Punch and Judy—Fashion dolls—Dolls in swaddling clothes—The Egyptian “shabbies” 253 XXVIII THE CLOWN AND PAINTING THE BODY The clown’s dress—Savage painting and survivals of it—Tattooing—Patches and false complexions—Masks 269 XXIX STAGE COSTUMES The harlequin, pantaloon, columbine, and acrobat 282 XXX NIGHTDRESS Bands on nightgowns—Nightcaps—Night attire worn in the streets 287 XXXI THE DRESS OF ANIMALS Natural representatives of clothes—Horse trappings—Amulets on harness—Dogs’ disguises—Fashions in the form of animals 291 XXXII COLOUR Importance of colour—Instinctive love of bright hues—Desirability of coloured clothes and gay scenes—Colour and complexion 305 XXXIII PATTERNS Ancient designs—Checks and tartans—Parti-coloured clothes—Evolution of ornamentation 311 XXXIV IMPRESSIONS TO BE GAINED FROM DRESS Clues from clothes—Individuality not disguised by them—Modern dress of other countries—Significance of clothes 315 XXXV THE EFFECT OF CLOTHES UPON THE INDIVIDUAL The origin of stays—Tight lacing no new thing—Its effects—Mr. Heather Bigg on the need for support—The ideal foot—Skull deformities—Padding 322 XXXVI FURTHER EFFECTS OF CLOTHES ON THE INDIVIDUAL Mental effects of different clothes—Preferences of girls for certain articles of dress—Movements that depend upon the presence or absence of clothes 339 XXXVII THE RISE AND FALL OF FASHIONS Reason why fashions are followed—Gay clothes seen when periods of depression are over—Condemnation of fashions by the clergy—Quakers—Sumptuary laws—The killing of fashions 343 XXXVIII DRESS REFORM Clothes to be avoided—Need for warmer garments—“Rational” dress for women 354 Conclusion 362 Bibliography 363 Index 369

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