Mariathal—Rheinthalersee—Achenrain—Mariathal, village and ruined Dominican convent—Georg von Freundsberg—The Brandenbergerthal—Steinberg—Heimaththal, Freiheitthal—The gold-herds of the Reiche Spitze—Die Kalte Pein—Mariastein—The irremovable image—Jenbach—Wiesing—The Thiergarten—The Achenthal—The Käsbachthal—The Blue Achensee—Skolastica—Pertisau—Buchau, Nature’s imitation fortress—Tegernsee—The Achen-pass—The judgment of Achensee—Playing at ball in St. Paul’s cathedral—Legend of Wildenfeld—Eben—The escape of the vampire—Stans—Joseph Arnold—Tirolean artists—The Stallenthal—St. Georgenberg—Unsere liebe Frau zur Linde—Viecht, Benedictine monastery, library, sculpture—Vomperthal—Sigmundslust—Sigismund the Monied—Terfens—Marialarch—Volandseck—Thierberg—S. Michael’s—S. Martin’s—The Gnadenwald—Baumkirchen—Fritzens—External tokens of faith—The holy family at home—Frost phantoms—Hall; Münzthurm; Sandwirthszwanziger; salt-works; Speckbacher; Waldaufischer-Kapelle; S. Saviour’s; institutions of Hall—Johanniswürmchen; Bauernkrieg—Excursions round Hall; the Salzberg; the explorations of the ‘Fromme Ritter;’ grandeur of the salt-mines; salt-works; visit of Hofer and Speckbacher; the Salzthal—Absam; the dragons of Schloss Melans; Count Spaur’s ride to Babylon; combat with the toad—Max Müller on legends—The image on the window-pane; the Gnadenmutter von Absam; Stainer the violin-maker—Mils—Grünegg—Schneeberg—The Gnadenwald—The Glockenhof; the Glockengiesser; his temptation, condemnation, and dying request—The Loreto-kirche—Heiligenkreuz—Taur—Thürl—The Kaisersäule—St. Romedius, St. Vigilius and the bear; the spectre priest—Rum, landslip      125

CHAPTER VI.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

SCHWATZ.

Schwatz, its situation; effigy of S. John Nepomuk; his example; the village frescoes; a hunt for a breakfast; the lessons of traveller’s fare; market; church; its size disproportioned to the population; the reason of this—Schwatz a Roman station; silver-mines; prosperity; importance; influence of miners of Saxony; reformation; riots; polemical disputes; decline; copper and iron works; other industries; misfortunes. History of the parish church; peculiar construction; the Knappenhochaltar; monuments; Hans Dreyling; altar-pieces; Michaels-kapelle; its legend; churchyard; its reliquary and holy oil; the Robler and the gossip’s corpse; penance and vision of the unmarried—Franciscan church—characteristics of the inns; singular use of the beds; guitar playing—Blessed Sacrament visits the sick—Freundsberg; the ruined castles of Tirol; Georg von Freundsberg; his prowess, strength, success; devotion of his men; sung of as a hero; his part in the siege of Rome, sudden death, and ruin of his house; tower; chapel—Weird-woman; her story; her legends; Oswald Milser of Seefeld; the bird-catcher of the Goaslahn; strange birds; chamois; the curse of the swallow—Hospital; chapel—Tobacco; factory girls at benediction—Pews in German churches      168

CHAPTER VII.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

EXCURSIONS FROM SCHWATZ.

Falkenstein; exhausted mines; religious observances of miners; tokens of their craft—Buch—Margareth—Galzein—Kugelmoos—The Schwaderalpe—The Kellerspitze—Troi—Arzberg—Heiligenkreuzkapelle—Baierische-Rumpel—Pill—The Weerthal, Schloss Rettenberg; its spectre warder—The Kolsassthal—Wattens—Walchen—Mols—The Navisthal—Lizumthal; the Blue Lake—Volders—Voldererthal—Hanzenheim—Friedberg—Aschbach, why it is in the parish of Mils—Hippolitus Guarinoni, page to St. Charles, physician of the poor; religious zeal; church of St. Charles, Servitenkloster, the Stein des Gehorsams; analogous legend—Rinn; S. Anderle’s martyrdom; the Judenstein; lettered lilies—Aversion to Jews—Voldererbad—Ampass—Lans—The Patscherkofl—The Lansersee; the poor proprietor and the unjust noble—Sistrans; legend of its champion wrestler—Heiligenwasser      200

CHAPTER VIII.

NORTH TIROL—THE INNTHAL.

INNSBRUCK.

Our greeting; characteristics of the people; Innsbruck’s treatment of Kaiser Max; the Œstereichischer hof; our apartment; mountain view; character of the town; its history—Wilten; the minster; myth of Haymon the giant; his burial-place; parish church; Marienbild unter den vier Säulen; relic of the thundering legion—First record of Innsbruck; chosen for seat of government; for residence by Friedl mit der leeren Tasche—Character of Tirolean rulers—the Goldene-Dachl-Gebäude—Sigismund the Monied; his reception of Christian I.; condition of Tirol in his time; his castles; abdication—Maximilian; builds the Burg; magnificence of his reign; legends of him; his decline—Charles Quint; cedes Tirol to Ferdinand I.; his wise administration; quiets popular agitation; Charles Quint’s visits to Innsbruck; attacked by Maurice, Elector of Saxony; carried into Carinthia in a litter; death of Maurice—Ferdinand I., the Hof-Kirche; Maximilian’s cenotaph; its bas-relief; statues; Mirakel-Bild des H. Anton; Fürstenchor; abjuration of Queen Christina—Introduction of Jesuits; results—The ‘Fromme Siechin’—Ferdinand II.; his peaceful tastes; romantic attachment; Philippine Welser; ménage at Schloss Ambras; collections; curiosities; portraits; Philippine’s end      225

CHAPTER IX.

NORTH TIROL—THE INNTHAL.

INNSBRUCK (continued).

Wallenstein’s vow—Theophrastus Paracelsus; his mysterious dealings—The Tummelplatz—The Silberne Kapelle—Earthquake and dearth; their lessons—Ferdinand’s devotion to the Blessed Sacrament; analogous legend of Rudolf of Hapsburg—Ferdinand’s second marriage—The Capuchin Church—Maximilian the Deutschmeister; introduces the Servites—Paul Lederer—Maximilian’s hermitage—S. Lorenzo of Brindisi—Dreiheiligkeitskirche—Provisions against ravages of the Thirty Years’ War—The Siechenhaus—Leopold V.; dispensed from his episcopal jurisdiction and vows; Marries Claudia de’ Medici—Friedrich v. Tiefenbach—Festivities at Innsbruck—The Hofgarten—Kranach’s Madonna, Mariähülfskirche built to receive it; translation to the Pfarr-kirche under Ferdinand Karl—Ferdinand Karl—Regency of Claudia de’ Medici; administrative ability; Italian influences—Sigismund Franz—Claudia Felicita—Charles of Lotharingia—War of