minister and attendants—He comes to afternoon tea—A democratic king—Tschaudjo horsemen—An accident—I nearly lose my life—A nervous breakdown—We leave Paratau in a hurry—Kindness of the German Government officials at Sokode—They lend us one hundred carriers—On the road to Aledjo-Kadara, "the Switzerland of Togo"

69–79 CHAPTER VII ALEDJO-KADARA—THE SWITZERLAND OF TOGO On the march from Paratau to Aledjo-Kadara—A terrible stage—Doubt and depression—An uphill journey—I feel my health improving—An accident—Native sympathy—Our cook annexes our dining-table—A lovely camp—A thousand yards up and surrounded by mountains—The Switzerland of Togo—Beautiful rest-houses—The harmattan—Grass fires—Filming a drama—Another accident—Nebel and I nearly fall over a precipice—Nebel homesick—He leaves for Europe—Filming the final scene of Odd Man Out—We visit Bafilo, near Aledjo—Great reception by natives for the first white woman—The Uro (king) of Bafilo meets us in state—Torch play to celebrate the finish of Ramadam—More filming—An astonished native—Industrial films—The cotton industry—Trade guilds—Primitive looms and spindles—Making beads from palm nuts—Baboons like dogs and rabbits with feet like elephants 80–96 CHAPTER VIII AMONG THE BAFILO FOLK The native market at Bafilo—Native sweetmeats—Cowries as currency—A native barber shaving a baby's head—Togo boys playing at the West African equivalent of pitch and toss—A woman's dance that out-tangos the tango—Native baskets at a farthing apiece—Hyenas—I am nearly bitten by a puff-adder—A leopard—Early stables—Filming again—A glut of supers—A "woman palaver"—One of our people abducts a native girl—His punishment—I read the girl a lecture—But make little impression—"He gave me these"—A drunken native—I intercede for him with his chief—Wild tribes from the Kabre Mountains—Nude but modest—The shy girl and her bag of salt—A native falls in love with me—Beautiful native work—I buy a cloak of native manufacture—Good-bye to Bafilo 97–107 CHAPTER IX ON THE MARCH ONCE MORE On trek once more—A disquieting discovery—I am very angry—A long day's journey—I narrowly escape sunstroke—"Wholesome anger a good tonic"—I taste native beer for the first time—And find it both refreshing and sustaining—Antelope spoor—Exchange carriers—First meeting with the Konkombwa—The finest race of savages in Togo—Native dandies—Trouble with our horse boys—They are punished—In the heart of the wilds—European and native rest-houses—Paying our carriers with salt—Schomburgk gets "bushed"—Resents my anxiety—We quarrel—Elephant spoor—I am given my first lesson in wood-craft—Mosquitoes—The yellow-fever breeding anophele—We cross the Kara River—First sight of hippopotami—We strike the Oti, the principal river of Northern Togo 108–124 CHAPTER X CHRISTMAS AT SANSANE-MANGU At Mangu—Captain von Hirschfeld—I make an "impression"—Though not the kind I should have liked to have made—"The Place where Warriors Meet"—A brush with the Tschokossi—Captain von Hirschfeld's splendid hospitality—Tamberma Fort—The head tax—-The Mangu plantations—Mangu in the rainy season—Great heat—Terrific thunderstorms—Our Christmas dinner at Mangu—New Year's Eve festivities—We burn three thousand feet of film—Game birds round Mangu—A fishing carnival—Queer native methods—Canoeing on the Oti River—A marvellous shot—Filming in the tropics—More difficulties—The new station at Mangu, and the old one—A striking contrast—The big Mangu "songu"—A gathering of the clans—Trapping a hyena—A plague of bats—Fresh milk and native butter—Ancient records at Mangu 125–140 CHAPTER XI OUR "FARTHEST NORTH" Northward from Mangu—Wild savages and poisoned arrows—A treacherous attack and a lucky escape—Different arrow poisons—Grass fires and their drawbacks—Mosquitoes and some yarns about them—Wild natives—The wild Tschokossi women—A new dress every day—Our boys go swimming in a crocodile-infested pool—Our pet monkey gets loose—Searching for hippos—An unreliable guide—Sullen natives—A too-early call—A wonderful game country—In God's big "zoo"—Gorgeous plumaged birds—I want Schomburgk to shoot some for me—He objects—Sun birds and blue jays—Across a yam-field country—A bird sanctuary—Discovery of a flock of marabou—I regret having no gun—The costliest feathers on earth—Our guide loses his way again—Fulani herdsmen—They supply us with fresh milk—Arrival at Sumbu 141–158 CHAPTER XII AMONG THE SUMBU SAVAGES At Sumbu—Wild savages—Our boys afraid—Tschokossi refuse to sell us provisions—I enter a village and buy a chicken—Astonishment of the people at their first sight of coined money—I make friends with the children—Lumps of sugar—A new delicacy—The "white honey rock"—I become "chummy" with the chief—He invites me to go over his village with him—I accept the invitation—A unique village—Elaborate precautions against attack—Where did the Tschokossi learn to build these remarkable villages?—"Every village a fortress and every house a fort"—Messa gets scared—And Alfred follows suit—Cleanliness and the "classes"—I try my hand at cheese-making—Our too energetic "washerwoman"—A novel theory of wages—The ugliest chief in Togo—Marriage among the wild Tschokossi—Men's view—A primitive form of eugenics—"Can white women laugh?"—Our boys are boycotted—Native women refuse to cook for them—Salt the only currency—Sleeping "rough"—My boys' anxiety for the safety of their "little white mother"—Messa makes himself putties—His anxiety about his wife—A case of filaria—Dangerous symptoms 159–182 CHAPTER XIII BACK TO MANGU