An adventure with a puff-adder—Welcome news—"Chief's mail"—Out after hippo—Inexperienced hammock boys—My first sight of hippopotami—I am not impressed—Crocodile island—An extraordinary sight—Birds that pick crocodiles' teeth—Panscheli—Hodgson shoots two hippos—Our boys fetch them from the pool—Cutting up the carcases—A loathsome sight—We break camp—Homeward bound—Huge oyster "middens"—Stalked by savages—A nuit blanche—A leopard—and other things—Bad news—Back in Mangu 183–197 CHAPTER XIV THROUGH THE KONKOMBWA COUNTRY At Mangu—The harmattan—A meteorological mystery—Filming ethnological pictures—Building the new Mangu station—Drilling native soldiers—Marriage in the native army—Buying wives—Their market value—Polygamy v. monogamy—Filming Togo history—We reconstruct a big battle—Celebrating the Kaiser's Birthday—We buy a wild ostrich—It escapes—An ostrich hunt on the veldt—Packing up for the downward journey—Horrible discovery—No cigarettes—"Battle-axe" brand v. best Egyptians—Quitting Mangu—On the march to Unyogo—No water—Hodgson has an extraordinary "adventure"—A woman palaver—On to Djereponi—Chameleons—Nambiri—Nothing to eat—A glorious feed—An egg-laying story—In the heart of the Konkombwa country 198–212 CHAPTER XV NAMBIRI TO TSCHOPOWA The chief of Nambiri—One of Nature's gentlemen—Killing the fatted calf—Pretty Konkombwa villages—The Konkombwa and the Dagomba—Elaborate head-dresses of the Konkombwa men—Konkombwa women—A domestic row—Wonderful recuperative powers of savages—Konkombwa dances—A wonderful performance—Studies in facial expression—Distributing kola-nuts to the dancers—A native delicacy—On to Tschopowa—Voluntary carriers—A "royal" progress—Marabou feathers—A welcome surprise—I secure a wonderful bargain—The rest-house at Tschopowa—A huge baobab tree—Bow and arrow competitions—We secure pictures of hippo—Remarkable corn bins—Roast bats as native luxuries—I decline a share in the "banquet"—A live alarum clock 213–226 CHAPTER XVI THE WOMEN MINERS OF BANJELI Tschopowa to Kugnau—No roads—A careless guide—Schomburgk loses his way—Crossing the Oti River—Mosquitoes at Kugnau—Asmani and his "mosquito slaps"—A disconcerting mistake—Messa and Asmani fall out—The Konkombwa and their helmets—A too officious soldier—Anecdote about the Duke of Mecklenburg—Crossing the Oti for the last time—Arrival at Ibubu—A "Roman Fort"—In the Sokode district—Small food rations—Truculent natives—We buy a second ostrich—Lack of carriers—A serious dilemma—The chief of Ibubu is impertinent—"I can't make carriers out of mealie cobs"—I go on ahead with the few carriers available, leaving Schomburgk to follow—The disappearing women—On the road to Banjeli—Beautiful scenery—Schomburgk orders the chief of Ibubu to be arrested and brought a prisoner to Bassari—Women carriers—A glut of green and gold beetles—Our mail arrives at Banjeli from Bassari—News from home—I buy a pig—And am disappointed—A native "cooler"—Our personal boys imbibe not wisely but too well—A model punishment—Filming the native iron industry at Banjeli—Slave women miners—A pitiful sight—We obtain some most interesting pictures 227–248 CHAPTER XVII IN A MOUNTAIN COUNTRY Banjeli to Bassari—In a mountain country—Crossing the Katscha River—Bush riding—Arrival at Beapabe—An avenue of mango trees—We reach Bassari—Hospitality of Mr. Muckè, the Sub-District Commissioner—He places the "Massow House" at our disposal—Sleeping in a dwelling with windows—Scarcity of water—The "King of Bassari"—An Arab stallion—Native smiths at Bassari—The Mallam Mohammed, a local Pooh-Bah—An open-air school—The Mallam's eight wives—Their house and its treasures—They pay me a return visit—A Jack-in-the-box baby—Native jewellery—The District Commissioner from Sokode passes through Bassari 249–262 CHAPTER XVIII A WOMAN "PALAVER" Native marriages—A matter of sale and exchange—Infant betrothals—Native weddings—A Tschaudjo ceremony—A trying ordeal—Polygamy—Childbirth—Infant diet and infant mortality—Baby girls—A bush ordeal—The "Women's Queen"—Fetish women—Secret rites—Status of native wives—Widows—African death customs—Caravan cookery—Native cooks—Monkey-nut soup—Potatoes a coveted luxury—Bush delicacies 263–279 CHAPTER XIX BACK IN SOKODE Bassari to Malfakasa—Crossing the Kamaa River—A fearful climb—Mountain scenery—Uro-Ganede-Bo—A royal sanctuary—The last of our provisions—The outlaw of the "Long Gun" mountain—On the road from Malfakasa to Sokode—The Tim plains—Arrival in Sokode—In touch with civilisation once more—A telegraphic orgie—We say good-bye to our horses—Sending them down through the tsetse-fly belt—Precautions—Sleeping sickness—The Mallam of Dedaure—A splendid native—The native Government school at Sokode—Mr. Kuepers, the schoolmaster—Native scholars—Good manners of the children—Native children apter to learn than white up to a certain age—Herr von Parpart gives a farewell dinner—We meet Mr. and Mrs. Dehn—The choir invisible—By motor car to Atakpame—A breakdown on the road—Arrival at Atakpame—Kamina 280–295 CHAPTER XX KAMINA—LOME—HOME Warm welcome to Kamina—I am introduced to the Baroness Codelli von Fahnenfeld—Good news—A faithful black "boy"—The great wireless station at Kamina—Feminine vanity—Camping out v. living in—A tornado—Good-bye to Kamina—By rail to the coast—At Lome—Filming the first scene of our principal drama—We want a white baby—Difficulties of the quest—Shall we paint a black baby white?—A compromise—Social life in