animals can’t climb out. This is attached by slats nailed along the tops of the posts and the wire nailed to them. Steel sheeting needs no inhang, because it is so that the skunks cannot get a foothold.

If the skunks dig at night to get out fill up the holes as soon as possible and thus discourage the workers.

The big pen or large enclosure, serves as a range for the barren females, males, and young skunks during autumn.

4.—Pens.

Many breeders consider pens better and cheaper than dens. These are little runs about ten feet square, separated only by a three foot netting which has an inhang or overhang as it is some times called, of a foot on each side, so the skunks cannot climb in or out. If boards are used for pens inside the big fence no overhang is needed. All pens should be completely floored with mesh wire three or four inches under surface.

5.—Dens.

Every cage or pen needs a movable den that is dry, sanitary, portable, easy for observation, and warm. This last feature is important, for skunks are sensitive to cold which causes pneumonia. The dens should be well supplied with straw and rags, (avoid hay) because the seeds are injurious to the nostrils.

6.—Cage Litter.

After trying smooth floored dens, and floors strewn with straw, chips, ashes and sawdust; I feel safe in recommending sawdust, as its great absorbent power helps to keep clean dens. It should cover the floor to a depth of two inches.

7.—Food Troughs.

Do not use wooden troughs; they are unsanitary. Pie dishes either tin or ware, will do if the sides do not flare. If they do the skunk usually spills the milk or any liquid in the dish, by standing on the sides with its paws.

8.—Food House.

The food and tool-house should be in the pen for convenience. There should be mice and rat-proof vessels to keep the oatmeal and dry biscuit, cheese, and meat in. It should be equipped with a large boiler for boiling oatmeal and meat in. The meat may also be smoked as this will preserve it, and is greatly preferred by the animals. The meat may be hung out of reach of the rats in sacks.

9.—Feeding.

Skunks like most animals are omnivorous. A continuous unbroken diet of meat would eventually wipe out the stock; as would a diet solely vegetable. Moderate varied feeding is essential. Adult skunks are fed once a day, they themselves prefer it after dark. Staple articles of food are beef, rabbit, cow liver, chicken giblets, oatmeal, and other porridge, cooked potatoes and milk; anything a dog will eat with fruit and insects added. Be sure the meat is clear of infection.

Another staple article of food is a bread made of bran and shorts. Mix with three quarts of sour milk, enough flour to make a stiff dough. Roll dough out until it is an inch thick and bake for an hour like bread in a hot oven.

This is much relished by all fur-bearing animals, and is still more acceptable if flavored with a few spoonfuls of black molasses.

Milk must be given sparingly unless it agrees with the stock. Once a week is enough, more than that is liable to induce scouring and other disorders. Half a dog biscuit, and a few scraps of meat are enough for a skunk’s daily allowance. Of course some should have more than others according to their needs.

A brood-mother growing or suckling her young should have as much as she can eat twice a day, morning and evening.

When winter comes, skunks retire to their dens and eat nothing for weeks. In March the feeding is resumed and in April the brood mothers are extra fed with a preponderance of meat, much of it raw. It costs from twenty-five cents to a dollar to feed a skunk from June first to December first. Meat and fresh water are necessary at all times for brood-mothers, for if this is neglected