plenty of straw in the den and they will make themselves comfortable enough.

During the winter they eat nothing. Some breeders deem it wise to feed a light meal a week.

Mating time is from the middle of March, starting with February. Males must not meet at this time for they will fight, until one or the other is killed.

17.—Barren Females.

Three or four days after mating season has set in, remove the male and try some other male in, or for a few days. As the males are decided in their likes and dislikes. Neglect of this precaution will result in a large proportion of barren females.

18.—Breeding Mothers.

By April first every female should be given a separate den, and well fed and cared for.

This is the most important time of all, success or failure depends on the management of the mother at this time. Toward the end of the month she should be given raw meat and plenty of water. This diet should be given until mid-May, as this allays the meat craving which causes the mother to devour the new-born young.

I will repeat again the watchwords of success—

Proper sanitation, seclusion, and quiet, an abundance of raw meat and fresh water.

The period of gestation is nine weeks; the young are born in mid-May.

The young females have from four to six young the first litter and the older females have from eight to sixteen to one litter.

Never put two females with young, in the same house for they will fight and steal one and anothers’ young.

One family in one house is a good old rule to observe.

When one month old they are able to walk around and drink milk. I would advise disarming and weaning at this time.

19.—Young.

The young grow very fast and soon become as tame as kittens, some show their amazing temper at this age, from the beginning.

At thirty days they walk alone and drink milk. At sixty days they will weigh on the average of six lbs. each, and appear to be half grown. At six months they are full-grown, and weigh from four to six lbs.

At this age they are ready to be marketed.

20.—Escapes.

It is well to be prepared for escapes. A properly constructed fence will prevent this.

Two contrivances should be in stock—net and traps.

Net—This is an ordinary dip net to put over them.

Traps—These are box traps, or “catch-alives”. They are easily constructed, and one half dozen will be found convenient for many purposes.

21.—Disarming.

To prevent a shot from this deadly battery of the skunk they are disarmed while very young. When animals are young the operation is a simple one; but when performed when they are grown not more than one out of three survives the operation.

When ready for disarming, spread a burlap or gunnysack across your lap and order the assistant to bring the skunk. He must be careful to hold it by the tail, with it near the ground. The sack is then rolled around the animal; rear exposed.

The assistant holds the animal firmly and double muffles the eyes, so it cannot possibly see. A skunk seldom shoots unless it sees an enemy.

The proper instruments consist of a scalpel, clamping forceps, extracting forceps, hook and goggles.

The scent sacks are located one on each side of the vent off one fourth inch from the vent.

To disarm—First make an incision three eighths of an inch long and one half an inch from the vent.

As soon as the incision is made, cut deeper until the scent sac appears, which is about the size of a bean in young skunks and about the size of a marble in mature ones.

With the blunt forceps, force the adhering muscles down off the sac, and cut the sac off one fourth inch from the vent.

If the operation is done according to instructions, there will be no loss whatever.

Animals do not