NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA PERFORMED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT,
DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, AND 6,
TOGETHER WITH
A NOTICE OF THE PROVINCE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA IN 1847.
IN 2 VOLUMES.

TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC.

MY LORD,

Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian colonies.

Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a desert.

I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest and sympathy. I have the honour to be,

My Lord,

Your Lordship's
Most obedient humble servant,
CHARLES STURT.

London, November 21,1848.

NOTICE.

It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be the case.

I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks in the Appendix.

To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my ornithological notice appears.

I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am very greatly indebted.

I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more immediately in connection with such men.

London, November 21, 1848.

CONTENTS

VOLUME I.

CHAPTER I

CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT OF ITS RIVERS
PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING
SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT
CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY
ITS PERIODICAL RISE
BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE
GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS
OBSERVATIONS
RESULTS
SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE DARLING
ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY
ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON
CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION
CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY
MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION
VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE
MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS
STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828
CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS
JUNCTION OF THE DARLING
FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY
FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT
THEORY OF THE INTERIOR.

CHAPTER II

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE
ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI
NATIVE GUIDES
NAMES OF THE PARTY
SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS
CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY
PROGRESS UP THE RIVER
ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY
GRASSY PLAINS
CAMBOLI'S HOME
TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD
PULCANTI
ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS
VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES
RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI
DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD.

CHAPTER III

MR. BROWNE'S RETURN
HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY
CHANGE OF SCENE
CONTINUED RAIN
TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY
STORY OF THE MASSACRE
LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA
ACCIDENT TO FLOOD
TURN NORTHWARDS
CROSS TO THE DARLING
MEET NATIVES
TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER
NADBUCK'S CUNNING
ABUNDANCE OF FEED
SUDDEN FLOODS
BAD COUNTRY
ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA
CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT
PERPLEXITY
MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES
MR. BROWNE'S RETURN
FOOD OF THE NATIVES
POSITION OF WILLIORARA.

CHAPTER IV

TOONDA'S TRIBE
DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES
ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI
HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER
MR. POOLE'S RETURN
LEAVE THE DARLING
REMARKS ON THAT RIVER
CAWNDILLA
THE OLD BOOCOLO
LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS
REACH A CREEK
WELLS
TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT
ASCEND THE RANGES
RETURN HOMEWARDS
EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY
REACH PARNARI
MOVE TO THE HILLS
JOURNEY TO N. WEST
HEAVY RAINS
RETURN TO CAMP
MR. POOLE LEAVES
LEAVE THE RANGES
DESCENT TO THE PLAINS
MR. POOLE'S RETURN
HIS REPORT
FLOOD'S CREEK
AQUATIC BIRDS
RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT.

CHAPTER V

NATIVE WOMEN
SUDDEN SQUALL
JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD
VIEW FROM MOUNT LYELL
INCREASED TEMPERATURE
MR. POOLE'S RETURN
HIS REPORT
LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK
ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST
DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER
EXTRICATE THE PARTY
STATE OF THE MEN
MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP
PROCEED NORTHWARDS
CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH
RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER
MUDDY CREEK
GEOLOGICAL FORMATION
GYPSUM
PUSH ON TO THE RANGES
RETURN TO THE CREEK
AGAIN ASCEND THE RANGES
FIND WATER BEYOND THEM
PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.
RETURN TO THE RANGES
ANTS AND FLIES
TURN TO THE EASTWARD
NO WATER
RETURN TO THE CAMP
MR. POOLE FINDS WATER
MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES
MOVE THE CAMP.

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