“Temple or Refrigerator.” “Ruins, Ancient beyond all Knowing.” Guesses and Traditions. Some Appropriate Verses.

156 XVI—On the Upper Rio Grande. Good-bye and Welcome. Del Norte and the Gold Summit. Among the River Ranches. Wagon Wheel Springs. Healing Power of the Waters. The Gap and its History. A Day’s Trout Fishing. 166 XVII—El Moro and Cañon City. A Great Natural Fortress. Down in a Coal Mine. The Coke Ovens. Huerfano Park and its Coal. Cañon City Historically. Coal Measures. Resources of the Foothills. 177 XVIII—In the Wet Mountain Valley. Grape Creek Cañon. The Dome of the Temple. Wet Mountain Valley. The Legend of Rosita. Hardscrabble District. Silver Cliff and its Strange Mine. The Foothills of the Sierra Mojada. Geological Theories. 185 XIX—The Royal Gorge. The Grand Cañon of the Arkansas. Its Culminating Chasm the Royal Gorge. Beetling Cliffs and Narrow Waters. Running the Gauntlet. Wonders of Plutonic Force. A Story of the Cañon. 193 XX—The Arkansas Valley. Entering Brown’s Cañon. The Iron Mines of Calumet. Salida. Farming on the Arkansas. Buena Vista. Granate and its Gold Placers,—Twin Lakes. Malta and its Charcoal Burners. A Burned-out Gulch. 201 XXI—Camp of the Carbonates. California Gulch. How Boughtown was Built. Some Lively Scenes. Discovery of Carbonates. The Rush of 1878. The Founding of Leadville. A Happy Grave Digger. Practice and Theory of Mining. Reducing the Ores. 209 XXII—Across the Tennessee and Fremont’s Pass. Hay Meadows on the Upper Arkansas. Climbing Tennessee Pass. Mount of the Holy Cross. Red Cliff. Ore in Battle Mountain. Through Eagle River Cañon. The Artist’s Elysium. Two Miles in the Air. On the Blue. 222 XXIII—From Poncho Springs to Villa Grove. In Hot Water. A Pretty Village and Fine Outlook. Pluto’s Reservoirs. The Madame’s Letter. Poncho Pass. The Sangre de Cristo Again. Villa Grove. Silver and Iron. 225 XXIV—Through Marshall Pass. The Unknown Gunnison. A Wonder of Progress. Climbing the Mountains in a Parlor Car. Four Hours of Scenic Delight. Culmination of Man’s Skill. On the Crest of the Continent. The Mysterious Descent. 243 XXV—Gunnison and Crested Butte. Tomichi Valley. Gunnison from Oregon to St. Louis. Captain Gunnison’s Discoveries. A Discussion with Chief Ouray. A Beautiful Landscape. Crested Butte. Anthracite in the Rockies. 250 XXVI—A Trip to Lake City. Lake City. A Picture from Nature. A Hard Pillow. The Mining Interests. Alpine Grandeur of the Scenery. The Home of the Bear and the Elk. Game, Game, Game. 262 XXVII—Impressions of the Black Cañon. The Observation Car. Gunnison River. Trout Fishing Again. The Rock Cleft in Twain. A Beautiful Cataract. A Mighty Needle. The Cañon Black yet Sunny. Impressions of the Cañon. Majestic Forms and Splendid Colors. 266 XXVIII—The Uncompahgre Valley. Cline’s Ranch. Montrose. The Madame and Chum Respectfully Decline. The Trip to Ouray. The Military Post. Chief Ouray’s Widow. The Road on the Bluff. Hot Springs. Brilliant Stars. 273 XXIX—Ouray and Red Mountain. A Pretty Mountain Town. Trials of the Prospectors. A Tradition. From Silverton to Ouray by Wagon. Enchanting Gorges and Alluring Peaks. The Yankee Girl. A Cave of Carbonates. Vermillion Cliffs. Dallas Station. 278 XXX—Montrose and Delta. Playing Billiards. Caught in the Act. A Well-Watered District. Coal and Cattle. A Fruit Garden. A Big Irrigating Ditch. The Snowy Elk Mountains. A Substantial Track. A Long Bridge. 290 XXXI—The Grand River Valley. An Honest Circular. Grand Junction. Staking Out Ranches. The Recipe for Good Soil. Watering the Valley. Value of Water. Some Big Corn in the Far West. A Land of Plenty. Going West. 296 XXXII—The Colorado Cañons. A Memorable Night-Journey. Skirting the Uncompahgre Plateau. Origin of the Sierra La