قراءة كتاب The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student

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The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student

The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
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higher nitrates and less inflammable. They are freely soluble in a mixture of ether and alcohol, from which solutions they are precipitated in a gelatinous form on adding chloroform. Acetic ether, methyl alcohol, acetone and glacial acetic acid, will also dissolve these nitrates.

Cellulose Di-nitrate, C6H8O5(NO3)2, is obtained when cellulose is treated with hot dilute nitric acid, or when the high nitrates are boiled with solutions of caustic soda or caustic potash. Like the last-mentioned nitrates it is soluble in a mixture of alcohol and ether, in acetic ether, and in absolute alcohol. The solution of the pyroxyline nitrates in ether and alcohol is known as collodion, and is used in photography and in medical and surgical work.

One of the most interesting applications of the cellulose nitrates is in the production of artificial silk. Several processes, the differences between which are partly chemical and partly mechanical, have been patented for the production of artificial silk, those of Lehner and of Chardonnet being of most importance. They all depend upon the fact that when a solution of cellulose nitrate is forced through a fine aperture or tube, the solvent evaporates almost immediately, leaving a gelatinous thread of the cellulose nitrate which is very tough and elastic, and possesses a brilliant lustre. Chardonnet dissolves the cellulose nitrate in a mixture of alcohol and ether, and the solution is forced through fine capillary tubes into hot water, when the solvents immediately evaporate, leaving the cellulose nitrate in the form of very fine fibre, which by suitable machinery is drawn away as fast as it is formed. Lehner's process

is very similar to that of Chardonnet. Lehner uses a solution of cellulose nitrate in ether and alcohol, and adds a small quantity of sulphuric acid; by the adoption of the latter ingredient he is able to use a stronger solution of cellulose nitrate, 10 to 15 per cent., than would otherwise be possible, and thereby obtains a stronger thread which resists the process of drawing much better than is the case when only a weak solution in alcohol and ether is employed. By subsequent treatment the fibre can be denitrated and so rendered less inflammable.

The denitrated fibres thus prepared very closely resemble silk in their lustre; they are not quite so soft and supple, nor are they in any way so strong as ordinary silk fibre of the same diameter.

Artificial silk can be dyed in the same manner as ordinary silk.

ACTION OF OXIDISING AGENTS ON CELLULOSE OR COTTON

Cellulose resists fairly well the action of weak oxidising agents; still too prolonged an action of weak oxidising agents has some influence upon the cotton fibre, and it may be worth while to point out the action of some bodies having an oxidising effect.

Nitric acid of about 1.15 specific gravity has little action in the cold, and only slowly on it when heated. The action is one of oxidation, the cellulose being transformed into a substance known as oxycellulose. This oxycellulose is white and flocculent. It tends to form gelatinous hydrates with water, and has a composition corresponding to the formula C6H10O6. It is soluble in a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, and on diluting this solution with water a tri-nitrate precipitates out. A weak solution of soda dissolves this oxycellulose with a yellow colour, while strong sulphuric acid forms a pink colouration. It is important to note that

nitric acid of the strength given does not convert all the cellulose into oxycellulose, but there are formed also carbonic and oxalic acids. When cotton is passed into strong solutions of bleaching powder and of alkaline hypochlorites and then dried, it is found to be tendered very considerably. This effect of bleaching powder was first observed some thirteen years ago by George Witz, who ascribed the tendering of the cotton to the formation of an oxycellulose. Although the composition of this particular oxycellulose so formed has not yet been ascertained, there is reason to think that it differs somewhat from the oxycellulose formed by the action of the weak nitric acid. A notable property of the oxycellulose now under consideration is its affinity for the basic coal-tar dyes, which it will absorb directly. The oxycellulose is soluble in alkaline solutions.

In the ordinary bleaching process there is considerable risk of the formation of oxycellulose by the employment of the bleaching solutions of too great a strength, or in allowing the goods to lie too long before the final washing off. The presence of any oxycellulose in bleached cotton may be readily determined by immersing it in a weak solution of Methylene blue, when, if there be any oxycellulose present, the fibre will take up some of the dye-stuff.

Permanganate of potash is a very powerful oxidising agent. On cellulose neutral solutions have but little action, either in the cold or when heated. They may, therefore, be used for the bleaching of cotton or other cellulose fibres.

Alkaline solutions of permanganate convert the cellulose into oxycellulose, which resembles the oxycellulose obtained by the action of the nitric acid.

Chromic acid, when used in the form of a solution, has but little action on cellulose. In the presence of mineral acids, and used warm or boiling, chromic acid oxidises cellulose into oxycellulose and other products.

It is therefore always advisable in carrying out any technical process connected with cotton which involves its treatment with oxidising agents of any kind, and where it is desired not to alter the cotton, to allow these actions to be as short as possible.

Dyes and Cotton Dyeing.—An account of the chemistry of the cotton fibre would not be complete unless something is said about the reactions involved in the processes of dyeing and printing cotton. This is a most interesting subject and opens up quite a number of problems relating to the combination of the fibre with colouring matter of various kinds, but here only a brief outline of the principles that present themselves in considering the behaviour of the cotton fibre as regards colouring matter will be given.

When the question is considered from a broad point of view, and having regard to the various affinities of the dyes for cotton; we notice (1) that there is a large number of dye-stuffs—the Benzo, Congo, Diamine, Titan, Mikado, etc., dyes—that will dye the cotton from a plain bath or from a bath containing salt, sodium sulphate, borax or similar salts; (2) that there are dyes which, like Magenta, Safranine, Auramine and Methyl violet, will not dye the cotton fibre direct, but require it to be mordanted or prepared with tannic acid; (3) that there are some dyes or rather colouring matters which, like Alizarine, Nitroso-resorcine, barwood, logwood, etc., require alumina, chrome and iron mordants; (4) that there are some dyes which, like the azo scarlet and azo colours in general, cannot be used in cotton dyeing; (5) that there are a few dyes, i.e., indigo, which do not come under this grouping.

From the results of recent investigations into the chemistry of dyeing it is now considered that for perfect dyeing to take place there must be formed on the fibre a combination which is called a "colour lake," which consists of at least two constituents; one of these is the dye-stuff or the colour

ing matter itself, the other being either the fibre or a mordant, if such has to be used. The question of the formation of colour lakes is one connected with the molecular constitution of the colouring matter, but much yet remains to be done before the proper functions and mode of action of the various groups or

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