tail, or wings, on top of the {17} hook, and at the same time keeps them from splitting or turning sidewise.) Now that the tail is in place, with two turns of the tying silk (A) tie in ribbing (D) Fig. 6. Now take six or eight close tight turns with the tying silk towards the eye of the hook, with two more turns tie in the body material (E) Fig. 7. IF USING TINSEL FOR BODY MATERIAL, BE SURE AND CUT THE END TO A TAPER BEFORE TYING IN as (E) Fig. 7; this tends to make a smoother body and prevents a bunch where the body material is tied in. Next wind tying silk (A) back to the starting point, take a half hitch and let it hang. Now wind body material (E) clockwise (all windings are clockwise) tightly and smoothly back towards the barb, to the extreme rear end of the body, pull tight and wind forward to within 1/8" of the eye, wind back and forth to form smooth tapered body as Fig. 8 (tinsel bodies are not tapered). (If using silk floss, untwist the floss and use only one half or one third of the strands, do not let it twist, wind tight, and it will make a nice smooth body.) Take two turns and a half hatch with the tying silk, and cut off end of the material (F) Fig. 8. Take one tight turn with ribbing (D) over butt of tail close to rear end of the body, also one turn under the tail if tail is to be cocked. Wind ribbing spirally around the body and tie off with two turns and a half hitch of tying silk as Fig. 9.

{18}

Bucktail streamers tied by the author (actual size)

{19}

Two-thirds actual size

{20}

Take about three dozen hairs of colored bucktail, cut off butt ends to the length wanted for the finished fly, not more than one half again as long as the hook, place these on top of the hook as Fig. 10 with butt ends about 1/16" back of the eye (this is held the same as when putting on the tail, Fig. 4). Pull down two or three loops, Fig. 11. Now take about 175 hairs of other colored bucktail, place this on top of the first colored bucktail the same as Fig. 10. Repeat the same operation as Fig. 11. Before finishing the head put a drop of head lacquer on the butt ends of the hairs to cement them in place, finish by making a smooth tapered head with the tying silk, take three or four half hitches, paint the head with two or three coats of lacquer and the job is complete, unless you wish to add jungle cock cheeks, or other combinations of feathers. This of course is done before the head is completed.

{21}

Diagram 4

{22}

WET FLIES

Start the waxed tying silk (See Diagram 4, page 21) 1/8" from eye of hook, Fig. 1. Wind tying silk (A) down shank of hook, and with last two turns tie in tag material (B) Fig. 2. Tags (see diagram 1) usually represent the egg sac on the female of the species. Chenille, wool, gold, silver, silk, herl, or various other materials are used for tags. (Ribbing, if used, is tied in just before the tag material.) Tie in tail (C) Fig. 3 (see Fig. 4 Bucktail, Diagram 3, page 15, for directions, how to hold the tail. Take from one to four turns with the Tag Material (B) around the hook, take a couple of turns with tying silk (A) around the loose end of (B) and cut off (B) as Fig. 4. Take about three or four turns towards the eye of the hook with (A), with two more turns tie in the body material (D) Fig. 4. Wind (A) back to the starting point, take a half hitch and let hang. Wind body material (D) to where (A) was left hanging. Wind (D) back and forth several times to form a tapered body, fasten with two or three turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 5. Next take hackle (E), and strip off soft web fibers on dotted line, Fig. E. Hold hackle {23} (E) by the tip with thumb and finger of the left hand, with the shiny side of the hackle to the right, place the butt diagonally under the hook and take four or five tight turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 6. Be sure that the hackle is tied on edgewise with the shiny side to the front. Now grasp the tip of the hackle with the hackle pliers and wind four or five turns clockwise around the hook. If the hackle starts winding edgewise it will go on without any trouble, if not better take it off and try again until you get the knack of tying the butt in at just the right angle. Take three or four turns over the hackle tip with (A) and clip off the tip close as Fig. 7. With the thumb and finger of the left hand, reach from under the hook and pull all the fibers down to the bottom, take three or four turns over them with (A) towards the barb of the hook, to hold them in place, and to keep them pointing well back, as Fig. 8. Next take a pair of matched (one right and one left) turkey, goose, or other wing feathers, Fig. A, and cut a section from each about 1/4" wide, place the two sections with tips even and concave sides together as Fig. B. Cut off the butt ends to the right length, that is so that the tips come even, or a little beyond the bend of the hook. Place on top of hook as Fig. 9 and tie on the same as previously explained in tying hair on Bucktails (Diagram 3, page 15, Figs. 4 and 10). Finish off with a smooth tapered head, two or three half hitches {24} and a couple of coats of good head lacquer, Fig. 10. Many patterns are tied palmer, that is the hackle is wound the whole length of the body. Many of the dry flies are tied this way, especially the Bi-visibles. To tie a palmer hackle, prepare the hackle by holding the tip of the hackle between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand, stroke the fibers back so that they point towards the butt, instead of towards the tip, Fig. C, Diagram 4. With the shiny side of the hackle up, strip off the fibers from the bottom side as Fig. D. Now tie the hackle in by the tip as Fig. 11. Make the body the same as before. Wind the hackle spirally around the body and tie off the butt, Fig. 12. To make the hackle more full near the head, one or more hackles are tied in at the same time as Figs. 6 and 7, the palmer hackle is wound to within 1/8" of the eye and the butt tied in and cut off the same as the tip was cut off Fig. 7.

{25}

Wet flies tied by the author (actual size)

{26}

Two thirds actual size

DRY FLIES

{27}

Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8" from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4" wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4, page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together (just the